US1, I just splashed today after a couple weeks dry. I will try to get you definitive water pressure numbers within the next couple days.
This weekend, I am benchmarking the gauges. Oil pressure @ 2000 & WOT, water pressure @ 2000 & WOT, etc., etc. Looking for minor deviations from the norm. Dialed in the tach vs trim and tab settings a couple weeks ago. As you know, we bought 32's at around the same time. I will give you numbers as I validate them.

Another sharp lesson learned . . . check the nut that secures the bolt that connects the engine hatch hydraulic arm to the engine hatch. Somehow my bolt came loose, the hydraulic arm fell down between the engines. No big deal yet - however, on it's way down, the arm popped the low-pressure 1/4" hose off the hydraulic steering pump. ATF EVERYWHERE, and no steering. This kind of event can almost take the glow off a perfectly good day of boating.

So, I guess that means you didn't get any numbers for me then, huh? ;)

When I pulled my motors to replace the drive couplers, I drained alot of PS fluid. Didn't bleed it when done, figured it will self bleed itself over time. At most steering positions it is fine, but when going to full lock, I get what sounds like aireation in the helm itself. Must still have some air in it?? From what I gathered, bleeding is a MESS. Kinda hard to do when on the lift. Thought about wrapping trash bags underneath to catch the fluid. Let me know how yours turns out.
Thanks.

No numbers as yet. However, I fixed the engine hatch, sucked all the fluid out of the bilge with a rabbit pump, and pressure washed the entire compartment. Looks like new again.
Attach flush adapter (water) to your engine so you can run it, and add PS fluid up to the line on the reservoir and start the motors. As you turn the helm lock-to-lock you will see the fluid level dropping in the reservoir. Just keep adding fluid until the noise goes away. It takes a little while, but it will go away. It is not messy at all.
The weather is supposed to clear up Thursday, I should be able to get some more numbers together. Did your drive couplers fail, or is it just preventive maintenance? I did mine as well.
One other - when you say 'on the lift', are you storing your boat on a HydroHoist?

My hatch lift bolt is just barely long enough too! Must of saved a whopping $ .50 by using a shorter bolt.
So you didn't bleed them by cracking loose a fitting at the cylinders and just let it cycle itself? I have about 2 hrs of run time and it still gargles at the helm at full lock. I think I need to actually bleed them if it continues.
Couplers....No, they did not fail, yet. I was just doing preventative maintance after I 1st bought it by checking alignment and greasing the u-joints. The couplers would not have made it thru the summer. They were both dry, splines worn and way out of alignment. Both motors needed over an 1/8" shim behind the lower engine mount bolts at the aluminum angle brackets in order to drop the rear of the motors. They had to have came this way from Fountain. 130 hrs. Only way the drives could have been originally installed is for the motors to be left loose during the install, then tightened after the drives were on.
Yes, I'm keeping it on hydro lift in a covered slip. No way am I leaving it in the water all summer. Damn thing would sink as soon as I leave for the week. :) Can't beat not having to trailer every weekend.

I had no problem with the PS after I replaced all the fluid. I just kept topping it up to the fill line, over and over until the gurgling stopped completely.
My drives were perfectly aligned when I replaced my couplers. The grease fittings, however, had never been charged.
I am storing my boat on a HydroHoist as well. The reason I asked is that when launching it is necessary to lower the stern all the way first - before lowering the bow. This puts the engine compartment blower outlets under water for a time. Then my bilge pumps kick in furiously until the bow comes down and raises the back end out of the water again. Looking into the engine compartment as this happens, I see two seacocks down low on each side of the bilge pouring water into the engine compartment. I am wondering the source/entry point for that water, and the consequences of plugging the outlets into the engine compartment. I have heard that Fountains can accumulate a large quantity of water under the cabin, forward of the companionway step. I have also heard that this water can be difficult to remove. My thought is: Could this be the source of the water coming into the bilge when the boat is at an extreme angle during launch? Do you have any thoughts on this?. . . Anybody??

Next chapter in 32 fortitude: The cabin-step bilge pump . . .

I have never seen a Hydro lift that can lowered front and rear independently. Not that there isn't. The lift should raise and lower level and equally throughout the full swing. Mine has a tie bar that goes from the front to the rear swing arms to positively lift level. Is yours not a Level Lift Hydro Hoist? My lift is a Galva Lift, but basically the exact same as HH.

If you are talking about the 2 holes at the rear outside corners, those are drains for what leaks past the swim platform rubrail. You cannot plug them. I got water thru there just while sitting. It is imposssible for Fountain to get to that area from the inside and bond the hull and deck like the rest of the boat is done, so they fill the joint with a sealer from outside. Mine had tons of gaps in the sealer, that was the entry point for water. I removed the rear rubrail section and scraped out the old sealer and FILLED with 5200. No more leaks!

Mine had a little bit of water in the cabin step. It comes from the front. I'm going to remove the forward cabin mirror and hose down the nose to see if the bow cleat and light are sealed. Another thing I noticed is that the step bilge pump hose does not have a loop in it. So under the right conditions, water can enter at the thru hull discharge fitting and run into the step. I pinched the hose in the step and after a day, it had just a bit of water in the line, so it is one entry point. I keep a full cover on my boat to keep the sun off it and since then, the step is dry during the week. I do see a little (paper towel soak up amount) after I wash it which leads me to the lite or cleat. Interior has not get wet since I have owned it, nor plan to, so don't know if it could come from the cockpit area. Another thing, the cooler drains into the hull. Mine only had a 2' length of drain hose to direct it under the passengers area. From there have no idea how the drainage flow is.
The bilge pump........mine is a fully automatic 500GPH rule hooked up with a float switch. Why not just a manual pump if going to use a float? sheesh!

I just looked at the Galva-Lift, it is entirely different from mine. Mine is a pneumatic lift, and the Galva- appears to be winch- or cable-driven. I have tried to feather mine down - keeping it level the entire time. At one point, every time, the boat will fall right over sideways so the deck is at a 45 degree angle to the water. Scared the sh*t out of me. I don't think I'll be trying it again.
How bad was it pulling the rubrail? Any problems?
When I picked up my boat, the cabin-step bilge pump was disconnected. I connected it, and the pump kicked in, but would not discharge the accumulated water. So it would run - and run - pumping the same water over and over again. I reached in through the hull-access, and pulled on the hose (suspecting a kink), and it started to discharge, and stopped again when I released the tension. Shortening the hose from the pump end didn't seem to help. May be time to replace that hose.
It's just stupid minor crap like this once in a while . . . otherwise, the overall performance of the boat is stupendous (close-quarters handling aside), and I doubt I could be more satisfied with my purchase.

Next Chapter: Low-water pickups . . .

It is under Galva-Foam, a sub directory on the Galv-lift web site. Mine is a 10,000# lift. We bought, assembled and installed 3 of them ourselves. This is assembled w/o the swing arms installed. Otherwise it would have been a 12' wide load hauling to the lake.
Really didn't want to replace all the mail boxes on the 2 1/2 hr route. :)

OK - that looks a little more like mine . . .