Miller, the advice you are getting is from some of the truly “Great” racers, and I am not sure if my thoughts even qualify, but Imo High-tide is right, there are many variables. High-speed operation in rough conditions is a balancing act. Bigger is always better, in a “v” or cat. Length=spanning ability. The theory can be explained and taught, but most of it is “learned by experience”. Many of the experienced members on this board can give us suggestions, but the real deal is learned out on the water. I find that in a head sea keeping the bottom in contact and flying straight is the fastest. I had a “A” class 21’ challenger, and a 21’ shadow that were great in the rough, George L forgot to tell these boats they were not 30’ I found that tabs took speed away and were not needed, 40# of weight in the bow was more effective and faster then tabs. Following sea, more trim to keep the bow from falling into the ramp of the next wave. The other “v” bottoms I had really did not belong running hard in the rough, too many chances for hull failure, oil canning the bow and deck removal. Most cats needs to stay on top in the rough, the 32’ spans a little better then the 28, but imo these boats run best in a head sea. Most cats need 75 to 80 mph to transition from hydrodynamics to aerodynamics. So at least 80 mph brings these boats up on the air pack. I found power “on” bow up, power “off” bow down. Angle of attack controlled by throttle. Momentary power reduction = lower bow position, power right back “on” to carry the bow over the next set of waves. Neutral to positive trim. Negative drive trim will have a opposite effect, power “on” will force the bow down, angle of thrust causes this to happen, when running negative trim extreme caution needs to be taken, as you back off the throttle the hull frees up, “no downward thrust” and there might be a momentary increase in bow angle and speed increase when you least expect it. I have never run tabs on either cat, I feel these boats wont benefit from tabs, not much stern weight in a outboard boat, and 75 mph lope not much of a problem. I hope some of the more experienced members will see it fit to add their suggestions. I know there are many very experienced members lurking and reading these posts. As a matter of fact, more then a few of the “Greats” are here.
I am sorry to give my thoughts on “V” and cats on the “V” post, having raced both this sort of happens.
High-Tide, thank you for your constructive posts, I for one appreciate them, and I am sure the other members also do.

Sd, IMO I am not sure I fully agree, I am in a cat, and given the same parameters, eg. HP, length, weight,cat vs. "V", the Newer designed cats more then likely will be "faster" at WOT, but might not "perform" better in all conditions. In the 60 to 80 MPH range most cats are not good performers, I know the skaters up to 80 MPH leave little to be desired. Forgive me if you meant "top speed" I relate performance to more then top speed.
sorry if I did not understand your post.

All of the T2x posts, the "v" post and the cat post seem to merging into one. This only goes to show, boating is boating, it does not matter if you run a "V" or a Cat.

Perhaps it's time to start a new post called "V-Hull History in Performance Driving" and Philip yours would've been a great starter post...Just a thought

Rick
www.HRPA.homestead.com/homepage.html

SD, stop perusing Hotboat at the quicky-mart.
Phillip, excellent answer(s).

High-Tide posed a very good question which required more than just casual consideration and warrented a thoughful response. Definately more than "because they do". I for one am very interested in the technical aspects of the sport - it is not enough to say "its better" at least say "its better because..." That is the only way we can expand our knowledge of the sport beyond "It worked on Billy-bobs boat". Yes, it may have worked on Billy-bob's boat, but what kind of boat did Billy-bob have?

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: Adivanman ]

Thanks Philip. I loved reading your opinions. I have been boating for many years but consider myself a rookie when it comes to performance boating. I find these posting under the cat v.s. vee to be very informative. I'm not looking to go racing but only to get the "best" out of my boat and do it safely. I hope I can find and look forward to more posting on this from the more experienced members. Again I thank you, T2x, Hightide, twin29, Miller and all others that have posted to this subject. :)

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: Hustler 26 ]

adivanman,
goe to the "cat" post,I also might not have understood SD

GREAT STUFF!!!!! I haven't posted on this one in I don't know how long....nor read it! I've got to take my hat off to all of you... This post could be a "how to" manual on everything from watching a race to buying a boat to driving it....

Phillip-- good points but don't forget the forward entry section effect on stuffing potential and rebound. I'll let you handle that.

Phillip:Head sea..trim in ,bow down to fly straight and level Following sea...trim up a bit to keep the bow from from falling in between the crests...combined with...'feather the throttles back just as the props are about to leave the water to keep the bow down otherwise if you keep em firewalled you might find your boat at a 45 degree angle to the water...from a post about 2 weeks ago entitled "Performance Driving"....Keep it up guys...the pieces are coming together!!! :cool: :cool:

Twin29,
right you are, power off the top of the crest and you will do a moon shot. I find I try to adjust the angle of the bow before I leave the top of the crest. The rapid rate of bow rise, is a good indicator of how high your angle of attack will be when leaving the crest . I try to back off the power just for a second before the props leave the water, and then power on to keep the bow from falling into the next set of waves. If the props are out of the water for any time I will gently "feel" with the throttles for the props to find the water, when I feel the water the power is back on to keep the bow up and prevent a stuff.