duksrule

I bought 2 of the KPM seawater pumps. Pump looks nice but there were no instructions in the box. Anyone know the gouge on the install?

-Does the pump need to come apart and pre-lube the impeller?

-How does it get clocked on the bracket? Mine is sort of a half moon shape and matches the bracket. Is that how it goes together? Also only 4 of the mount holes on the bracket go all the way through. The 5th on is threaded. Do I need to drill this out?

-Which of the 2 holes in the back are the inlet and which is the outlet?

-Mine came with the pump and some sort of other peice that looks like a shift knob or something.

I would call trick but they are closed at this time of night.

boatman22

read this thread, it will answwer all you questions on the KPM:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=98533

duksrule

I just test fit one of the pumps. It hits my oil pan big time. Not sure whether to try to make something work or just go back with the stock pumps. I am going to call Trick and see if they will take them back in the morning.

ratman

duks rule, did you try to rotate it to clear the oilpan? i rotated mine to clear everything and they fit ok, i like the fact that they wont disintigrate the minute you run them dry like the oem pumps.

duksrule

To rotate it, I would have to drill all new holes in the mounting bracket. Not to bad on one engine that is out but the other would be a B**ch. Did you drill new holes or find another way to rotate the new pump?

What is the little shaft that comes with the pump for? Is it to take out the plugs in the bottom? Looks like if you move the little set screw, it could be used as a wrench. Which is the inlet and which is the outlet? I am going to take another look tomorrow to see if I can make something work.

ratman

my merc pump is the type that has the mounting bracket with the round hole the snout of the pump goes thru, you loosen the pinch bolt and ratate the pump and slide it fore and aft to align the belt. im not sure if you have the same type of mounting bracket.

duksrule

Mine has 4 holes in a c shaped bracket. I would need to drill new holes.

Lauderdaleboats

I've had quite a bit of expierience with theese KPM run-dry pumps. My personal experience is that they work really well in the box they were shipped in. Out of the box, do yourself a favor and go with the KE pump. KPM pumps have a larger housing internally so there's less friction on the impeller. KPM says that at speed you don't even need an impeller cause the water pressure coming in the water inlet hose is sufficient to cool your motor. YEAH RIGHT!!!! Try that and be sure to take some eggs along with you. You can fry breakfast on your motor in about 20 seconds flat. I've had no luck with them, engine getting excessivly hot at idle and cruise. Switched right back to the mercury pumps, problem solved.

Raceangel77

If you go to our website you will see all the data you need. KPM pumps do not have a larger internal pocket. The pumps have an oval chamber where the friction is needed. as you will know the KE pump is round and they offset the shaft to a degree that the impeller is overstressed. Our pump chamber profile is nearly the same profile as the plastic housing used by mercury.

We have sold thousands of these pumps around the world and they have been tested idependantly by a number of military agencies , who are customers as you will see on our website.

Also your comments would not expalined why so many customers have down graded from a twin stage KPM to A single stage. The reason is that they have had too much cooling???????. We do this free of charge, and throw away the returned pumps after we use them for extensive testing.

With reference to the force feed at speed, this is common knowlege that this is the case. When I was crew chief for a team at the worlds at key west we had a consistent problem with one of the KE pumps ( It was very old to be fair). We by passed the port engine pump to direct feed. I had some binoculars and watched for water comming out of the port tail pipe. This was happening at milling speeds. I would then radio throgh to the driver to start the engine. I hasten to add the boat finished all the races without damage.

If you read the web site it will explain everything.

As you will know being a marine engineer on larger ships such as oil tankers and Cruise ships all the water feeds are force flow , and they have a pony pump for when the boat is stationary. If KPM have this wrong then so do most of the marine engineers around the world.

If you are having problems then please contact us and we will be willing do to a review of your water system design. We have several examples where we have done this for customers

My advice is if you do not believe us do not go on a cruiseship since the engines will obviously break down unless you want to cook thousands of eggs.

ratman

hey race angel, i just bought and installed 2 of your pump rebuild kits that replaces the back pump section of a merc pump. the boxes said 2 year warranty card inside...there wasn't one inside. there we no instructions in either box! i had to drill out the oem bolt holes to make the rebuild setion fit making it a one way deal, now i cant go back to the oem pump cuz i had to drill out the threads on the oem pumps body to make the kpm's fit. i think it would be easy to make them so the threads do not have to be drilled. the 2 pump kits i bought each had different lenght bolts, one pump had flat washers for the bolts the other pump did not...WTF is up with that dude? the body is also much larger which takes a lot of the adjustment swing out of the bracket because the pump body hits the oil pan which wont let the pump swing all the way in on the bracket to remove the drive belt. it would have been easy it seems to make it a little bit smaller. i also have a pair of the 2 stage pumps you make going on a pair of 1000hp blower motors, had to send them back to trick to be updated before they were even put in service due to what appears to be a design flaw. i also bought the 1st pair of dual cooler bellhousings.... they had to be sent to a machine shop and have the 6 transmission mounting holes drill for the correct sized bolt and thread size, did you really forget that we dont use metric threads on these? but 1/2 sae threads, also the covers for the transmission cooler housings were the same size which would place the transmission cooler out of the flow path of the cooling water, one cover had to have about an inch removed then the assmeblies had to be re hard anodized after the machine work was complete. WTF is up with that dude? i also have a pair of your kpm sea strainers the tops look like crap already (i have clear hard anodized lids) on mine that have discolored and look like crap and i installed them with my new engines in november last year, will you replace the lids under warranty? as i dont want them being an eye sore when i install my blower motors and finish blinging out the engine compartment. i have one other issue with the strainers, i few weeks ago i ran aground and packed the strainer with sand. i removed the strainer section and put it overboard and swirled it around to remove the sand shell etc that had become caught up in the red scuff pad material. i got them as clean as i could, but one engine didnt flow as much water as the other. so when i got home i ordered the kpm pump rebiuld kits installed em and went out the next weekend only to find the one engine was still not flowing as much water out the exhaust as the other and the engine ran 170 to 180* when i would run it hard. so i turned around and ruined a day of boating cuz i didn't want to hurt anything. i looked at everything i could think of and everything look fine. so i removed the strainer section of the strainers and took them apart and removed the scuff pad then blew them out with compressed air. reinstalled them and everything is fine now. im trying to figure out what else to use instead of the red scuff pad so the strainers can be better cleaned while out at sea and not have to use compressed air to clean them thoroughly. i was thinking of cutting a circle out of the red scuff pad and glueing some stainless screen material to it so the red scuff pad will still seal the filter to the housing but be easy to clean should it ever get packed with sand again. what do you think of the screen idea? please feel free to respond to my questions about the waranty on the strainer lids that now look pretty bad. thx, ratman