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Steel Buildings for Boat Storage... Condensation?

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Old 03-20-2007, 07:37 AM
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I have a 30 X 70 stick construction. Combination of R-19 walls in old section (30 X 40), R-25 walls in the new section (30 X 30). R-30 in the ceiling with Tuff-R 7.5 also applied to the ceiling.

I keep a constant temp of 50* in the winter and run a dehumidifier year round.

Biggest heat bill this winter was $70. Worth it to keep tools and items in storage from rusting due to condensation.

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Old 03-20-2007, 07:40 AM
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I had a 30x50 polebarn built two years ago. Poured the slab after the frame was up, before the tin. No insulation. I've never had a "rain" issue inside, but I've seen it under my southside shed occasionally (of course, that's where the boat is kept! )
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Old 03-20-2007, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Rippem View Post
I take it from your profile you have a summer place here?
Family has been in Clayton for a couple generations, I'm just lucky enough to spend the summers up there when I'm not in school...Steeles Point across from Washington Island, behind the Clipper Inn on the water.
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RedDog382 View Post
I have a 30 X 70 stick construction. Combination of R-19 walls in old section (30 X 40), R-25 walls in the new section (30 X 30). R-30 in the ceiling with Tuff-R 7.5 also applied to the ceiling.

I keep a constant temp of 50* in the winter and run a dehumidifier year round.

Biggest heat bill this winter was $70. Worth it to keep tools and items in storage from rusting due to condensation.
What kind of heater unit do you use?

My 60 x 60 x 12 is only half slabbed. It is a pole barn type construction with vinyl siding and sheet/shingle roof to match the house. The half which is slabbed is R25 ceiling, R19 wall and that is where I keep whichever one I am working on at the time. The other half has 12" thick gravel/crushed concrete mix for the floor and is only used for storage.

When I was getting ready to build, I talked with all of the antique car dealers and museums I could and they all said to keep dry, either do it this way or haul in sand or straw and cover the floor on top of the concrete to keep the moisture away and create no rust. It has worked really well.
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:47 PM
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well , here down south ,we have a sweat problem regardless....when i built this behind my home 3 years ago it was put on a 2 foot thick clay pad with thick visqueen.

the concrete was 2ft x 2ft around the perimiter, down, and accross the middle with 6" insides..some days the floor is just wet...

at my job ,the floor is wet , pretty much everywhere down here if it's not heated or ac'd..

it is insulated with the plastic backed insulation....

if i would have known about radiant heat in the floor back then i may have went that route , but i honeslty can say i don't know of anyone around here that has radiant heat in floors..or if it would even work ..

it's steel.. 30x40 i belive the whole package minus the large doors including insulation and delivery was about 8500.00

some real nice shops in this thread...
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:51 PM
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mine is 400x75 make sure if heated use a fresh air and exhualt heat to outside for no condersation.
i will rent you 25 or 50 by 75 w/ 12x 14 door heated for $6.50 sq foot a year.
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:59 PM
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I'm a steel building contractor in NJ & now Florida, I built building for the us army to store tanks, and other equipment. Condensation is a big problem in changing climate conditions. Blanket insulation works the best with ridge ventalation and electric operated fans on stats. deumitifiers are very $ for a large SF building
Craig apollo beach florida
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:24 PM
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Has anyone else tried one of these...It works great in mine. Aprilaire Model 1700/1720


The Aprilaire Model 1700 Whole-House Dehumidifier works throughout your entire home. It’s Energy Star® rated, removing 50% more water per kilowatt hour than leading portable dehumidifiers. The Model 1700 also features truly automatic control, so there’s never a need to manually control the dehumidifier—just set it once and forget it!

The Best Choice for healthy, comfortable air is the Model 1700 Whole-House Dehumidifier installed in your new or existing heating and cooling system. The benefits and results speak for themselves:

Provides three times the moisture removing capacity of leading portable dehumidifiers—up to 90 pints or 11.25 gallons per day


No messy tanks to fill and clean—ever

Automatically senses moisture levels and maintains optimum humidity levels in your home, never too much, or too little and running only when needed

Switches automatically between whole-house dehumidification when central air-conditioning system is running, and localized dehumidification when your air-conditioning isn’t running

Convertible from whole-home to localized application lets you solve excess moisture issues where you need it most from crawl spaces to attics and basements

Can be operated manually, allowing you to monitor and control moisture levels in a specific location—such as your basement or master bedroom (optional Living Space Control is required)

“Exposure to mold and dampness in homes as much as doubles the risk of asthma development in children. Anyone with young children in the home should be aware of the potentially harmful effects of long-term exposure to mold and this potential link to asthma in children.”

National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences

Which Model is Right For You?
The Aprilaire Models 1700 and 1720 Whole-House Dehumidifiers offer total comfort from the sticky, sweaty, and potentially unhealthy conditions caused by excess moisture. The 1700 and 1720 models differ only in capacity—with the model 1700 having a moisture removal capacity of up to 90 pints vs. the 1720 with total removal capacity of up to 150 pints per day.

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Originally Posted by open72 View Post
well , here down south ,we have a sweat problem regardless....when i built this behind my home 3 years ago it was put on a 2 foot thick clay pad with thick visqueen.

the concrete was 2ft x 2ft around the perimiter, down, and accross the middle with 6" insides..some days the floor is just wet...

at my job ,the floor is wet , pretty much everywhere down here if it's not heated or ac'd..

it is insulated with the plastic backed insulation....

if i would have known about radiant heat in the floor back then i may have went that route , but i honeslty can say i don't know of anyone around here that has radiant heat in floors..or if it would even work ..

it's steel.. 30x40 i belive the whole package minus the large doors including insulation and delivery was about 8500.00

some real nice shops in this thread...
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:21 AM
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I thought hard about in floor heat, Im a contractor and could have done it as cheap as anyone.......biggest reason I didnt is because you really cant drill into it......I want to install a 2 post lift for cars, anchor the drill press, the grinder etc.......too risky in my view

my buddy has a auto repair garage, heated all yr around.....once the conrete soaks up some heat you'll be fine.......let it get cold and it will take awhile (like 12 hrs) to heat up again........but same with in floor if you turn it off
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratickle View Post
What kind of heater unit do you use?

My 60 x 60 x 12 is only half slabbed. It is a pole barn type construction with vinyl siding and sheet/shingle roof to match the house. The half which is slabbed is R25 ceiling, R19 wall and that is where I keep whichever one I am working on at the time. The other half has 12" thick gravel/crushed concrete mix for the floor and is only used for storage.

When I was getting ready to build, I talked with all of the antique car dealers and museums I could and they all said to keep dry, either do it this way or haul in sand or straw and cover the floor on top of the concrete to keep the moisture away and create no rust. It has worked really well.
I have a 150,000 BTU Dayton natural gas unit heater from Grainger suspended from the ceiling.

Have given some thought to doing solar power/heat, although that can get a little expensive to set up and not exactly in the optimal climate.
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