Steel Buildings for Boat Storage... Condensation?
#1
Steel Buildings for Boat Storage... Condensation?
I am undecided on what to build for my boat/truck storage buiding.
I have quotes on two very different types of buildings.
http://www.steelmasterusa.com/pages/...ngs/Index.html
http://nationalbarn.com/northeast/
I know the thinner guage steel pole barn from National Barn HAS to be insulated to avoid "condensation indoor rain" in when the weather changes.
My question is; does the steel arch building consensate inside too? The steel is 22 gauge, and supposedly, it has this Galvalume coating on it that gives a light Rx rating. The sales rep. could not produce this number though.
If I don't have to install blanket or spray-in insulation in the steel arch building it comes out cheaper than the pole barn.
The steel arch buidling requires assembly. (PITA factor)
The pole barn is quoted turnkey (they build it), with insulation at install.
I can't figure this out, and am looking for someone with a steel arch building who can lend some info on how bad/if it condensates.
I have quotes on two very different types of buildings.
http://www.steelmasterusa.com/pages/...ngs/Index.html
http://nationalbarn.com/northeast/
I know the thinner guage steel pole barn from National Barn HAS to be insulated to avoid "condensation indoor rain" in when the weather changes.
My question is; does the steel arch building consensate inside too? The steel is 22 gauge, and supposedly, it has this Galvalume coating on it that gives a light Rx rating. The sales rep. could not produce this number though.
If I don't have to install blanket or spray-in insulation in the steel arch building it comes out cheaper than the pole barn.
The steel arch buidling requires assembly. (PITA factor)
The pole barn is quoted turnkey (they build it), with insulation at install.
I can't figure this out, and am looking for someone with a steel arch building who can lend some info on how bad/if it condensates.
#3
Charter Member #928
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Mine is turn key from Heritage Buildings. 40-50, ALL steel, 14FT roll up doors. Only had that happen once. Something to do with really cold inside a lot of warm moister air coming in one day in spring. It was really strange. I mean like it rained inside. Had the building about 8 years. Prefer steel on concrete instead of wood.
#4
Gold Member
Gold Member
No matter what, you will have to put some heat in the building to keep the interior temp above the dew point. Even with insulation, the inside temp will at times, be lower than the outside temp. This is the time of year when you will see condensation on the metal surfaces that are still cold, including inside engines and fenders. In the dead of winter when there is not much moisture in the air you can lower the heat. I would suggest infloor radiant for lowest operating cost or direct vent propane unit heaters for ease of installation, and lower installed cost.
#5
Carrboy,
If I have a Pole Barn built, I will be pouring a slab in the building, right up to the base boards of the building, per the barn builders specs. 'excursion' here on OSO has the IDENTICAL building that I may build; and I REALLY like how his is setup.
If I have a Pole Barn built, I will be pouring a slab in the building, right up to the base boards of the building, per the barn builders specs. 'excursion' here on OSO has the IDENTICAL building that I may build; and I REALLY like how his is setup.
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I am also looking for a garage and just requested info from National Barn. I have a friend in PA who had one built by an Amish Company and it is real nice. I will get their info and post it.
#7
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I know either way u will have a slab,whether it's on the slab or poles with a rim board.I'm just saying to price it both ways.Excursions set up looks great,I had the same at my last house. I pour A LOT of concrete floors for pole barns,shops ,and regular garages.We have been doing a lot more slabs with 1-3 courses of block lately.Looks better,can't bend the metal all up on the bottom if u have blocks,don't have to worry about the snow sliding off in the winter and going through the bottom(we get a lot of snow compared to u guys),but the biggest problem was the condensation.Mike
#8
Registered
Just for comparison, I have a 12x32x12 instant garage, with a polyethalyne cover. It gets very hot inside and there is a lot of humidity. There is mold on the inside walls and in the boat, if left for an extended periods, will get excess mold growth in the cabin.
#10
Registered
I don't know where you guys live (OK I do) but I'm 20 mins from the border up here and just last week had a 40*+ temp swing in about 12 hours. I've seen as much as 50* in 24 and this happens regularly up here in the spring and fall.
It is NEVER wet and NEVER "condensation rains" either.
My building is BONE DRY 98+% of the time. The other 2% would be a few hours of "moisture" you can just see down low on the hull of a boat while the temp equalizes that's it.
I have NEVER seen the slab damp.
has anybody who's had these issues have enough flow thru ventilation in the top of the building? Front and rear 2'x3' louver vent and a full length vented ridge and as it's a 35 yo 40'x60' building that has been moved once, there are a few spaces here and there. That slab in the pics is 22 years old.
It is NEVER wet and NEVER "condensation rains" either.
My building is BONE DRY 98+% of the time. The other 2% would be a few hours of "moisture" you can just see down low on the hull of a boat while the temp equalizes that's it.
I have NEVER seen the slab damp.
has anybody who's had these issues have enough flow thru ventilation in the top of the building? Front and rear 2'x3' louver vent and a full length vented ridge and as it's a 35 yo 40'x60' building that has been moved once, there are a few spaces here and there. That slab in the pics is 22 years old.
Last edited by Rippem; 03-19-2007 at 01:43 PM.