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How do I cut Stainless boat lift cables?

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Old 08-02-2007, 10:56 AM
  #21
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Mr_V,

If he doesn't have cable cutters, how about a Makita grinder with the cut-off wheel instead of the grinder?

We used a makita with the cut off wheel to cut 1 1/2 - 2" SS prop shafts at the marina....
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity View Post
Lots of great suggestions about the termination of the cable. Being a lift I would make the following assumptions, Strip correct me if I'm wrong. I think you have an old Hi-Tide lift too if I remember correctly.
1) You're buying a cable from a lift manufacturer. These cables come with a nicopress sleeve that was put on by a calibrated crimping tool. This is the end that if fed through the top carrier beam and bears full load.
2) you just need to cut the excess off the other end. This is the end that if fed through the roll pipe and is clamped. You'll have 3 cable turns around the roll pipe when the lift is in its lowest point so the clamp you put on this end does not have any load on it. The purpose of the clamp is to keep the cable from coming back out of the roll pipe hole.
3)You're doing it yourself and you don't have the proper tool and since it a one time thing you probably don't want to spend a buck fifty on a cable cutter.

They only advise I can give you, unless you use a plasma cutter that will fuse the end, feed your cable through the lift, clamp it and make sure the cable length is correct (lift is adjusted). If you got the cables from Hi-Tide they were plasma cut and already fused. Do not pull the clamp ends back out, wrap tape around the cable about 4" from the end of the roll pipe. Cut it there. Then just feed the end of the cable back in the pipe so when you look down the pipe you see the end of the loop. When its time to change the cables again after you unroll all the cable off the roll pipe you can grab the loop with a pair of plyers and pull the cable from the lift. Trying to push the cable back through that little hole can be a nightmare, especially if your cable has fish hooks.

To cut the old ones off, biggest pia removing old cables. Take the boat off, support your lift by ropes. Release the tension on the cables, use a cutoff wheel and cut the cables scross the roll pipe. Leave the last few turns on the roll pipe so you can push the cable back up the pipe. Or get 4 friends, gloves and have them stand at the 4 corners of the lift pulling down on the cables to keep tension on them.

When you install the new cables, take 8 2x4s about 8" long. In pairs, put them face to face, run the cable between them, screw them together just below your top carrier beams under the roll pipe. This will keep the cable tensioned as you roll them back up. When the cables support the weight of the lifter beams remove the 2x4. Or you can have 4 friends at each corner of the lift keeping tension on the cables.

Its not that hard but if you haven't done it a few times it can be a real hassle. Do a few dozen and you start perfecting the tricks.

If you're unsure I can snap a few pics.

Yes I have the cable from a lift manufacturer. These cables come with a nicopress sleeve allredy clamped on one end . Like you said Ill just feed it thru from that end.Step 2 is what I have also. I also allready have some bolt cutters ,I was told it would cut it though.I have a test peice to try before I get started , I am replacing all the cables, 2 on the front have a few strands broke , being a 16k lift with maybe 10-11k on the lift I figured Id be ok,now I am scard and figured Id go ahead and replace them.To me getting the cables ajusted and rewound sounds like its a b!tch.Thanks for all the sugestions ,I am trying to figure it out before starting and fing up something.

Do you think just the tape will keep the end after the clamp from unravaling?

Rob
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther View Post
Mr_V,

If he doesn't have cable cutters, how about a Makita grinder with the cut-off wheel instead of the grinder?

We used a makita with the cut off wheel to cut 1 1/2 - 2" SS prop shafts at the marina....
You're right. Cut off where in an electric grinder is prolly the best bet. It will leave a nice clean cut. We never did it because it was too much time pulling extension cords just to make 4 quick cuts on a lift and if if the crew dropped the cutters it was just a quick swim, drop my electric grinder......

When ya doing your's?
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:17 PM
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Yes I have the cable from a lift manufacturer. These cables come with a nicopress sleeve allredy clamped on one end . Like you said Ill just feed it thru from that end.Step 2 is what I have also. I also allready have some bolt cutters ,I was told it would cut it though.I have a test peice to try before I get started , I am replacing all the cables, 2 on the front have a few strands broke , being a 16k lift with maybe 10-11k on the lift I figured Id be ok,now I am scard and figured Id go ahead and replace them.To me getting the cables ajusted and rewound sounds like its a b!tch.Thanks for all the sugestions ,I am trying to figure it out before starting and fing up something.

Do you think just the tape will keep the end after the clamp from unravaling?

Rob

Get the boat off and hang the cradle, release enough tension so that the cables will be loose around the winders. They'll pop up enough that you can hit them with the grinding wheel. Its the easiest way to get the cables off if you need to do this alone. Unwinding the cables alone is a biotch....big time. Just make sure you leave a few wraps so you have enough to push the existing clamp out of the pipe. Remember you need to remove the front bolt from the front winder and the rear bolt from the rear winder to get the cable out. Also, if you have broken strands you will have a bear of a time getting the top loop off the top beam, the one you feed through. I usually cut it about an inch from the beam and just pop it out. Make sure you don't lose the spacer that sits in the beam. I tape the ends when I need to cut the new cable, I'll shoot some pics of how I leave it.

Remember, do all your cutting after you cable has been fully run and the clamp is on the end. Otherwise you're in for a lot of trouble trying to push the cables thru the holes and they DON'T fit with tape on them. The new lifts have a hole drilled completely through the pipe, after you clamp it you cut the cable flush.

Dug through some of my old dealer stuff, not sure if this helps or not.

Last edited by mr_velocity; 08-02-2007 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:29 PM
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[QUOTE=mr_velocity;2221539]Get the boat off and hang the cradle, release enough tension so that the cables will be loose around the winders. They'll pop up enough that you can hit them with the grinding wheel. Its the easiest way to get the cables off if you need to do this alone. Unwinding the cables alone is a biotch....big time. Just make sure you leave a few wraps so you have enough to push the existing clamp out of the pipe. Remember you need to remove the front bolt from the front winder and the rear bolt from the rear winder to get the cable out. Also, if you have broken strands you will have a bear of a time getting the top loop off the top beam, the one you feed through. I usually cut it about an inch from the beam and just pop it out. Make sure you don't lose the spacer that sits in the beam. I tape the ends when I need to cut the new cable, I'll shoot some pics of how I leave it.

Remember, do all your cutting after you cable has been fully run and the clamp is on the end. Otherwise you're in for a lot of trouble trying to push the cables thru the holes and they DON'T fit with tape on them. The new lifts have a hole drilled completely through the pipe, after you clamp it you cut the cable flush.

Dug through some of my old dealer stuff, not sure if this helps or not.



thats how they told me to drill the hole straight thru and just clamp it on the end that come out, i didnt think there was enough room for the clamp between the beem when it spins/turns,. The new clamps I got are stainless,unlike the old ones that are inside the tube.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:52 PM
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Use a cutoff wheel, no need to tape
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Old 08-02-2007, 04:51 PM
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Use a cutoff wheel, no need to tape

If I use the cut off wheel, will the end fray?
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:17 PM
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Go to West Marine, they sell a heavy duty heat shrink for dock lines (to keep them from unraveling) They're blue in color. They will not deteriorate like tape, and will last a long time. I used those on my cables when I installed my lift, they worked very well, also left a cover on the end of the cable so nothing gets snagged on them.
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:57 PM
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JUST SWAP SLIPS WITH BURL
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Old 08-02-2007, 06:03 PM
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JUST SWAP SLIPS WITH BURL

His is installed to far foward .I can use my swimplatform as a bar stool when lowerd just right No roon to fall in the water either



fabricator thanks Ill take a look for it there.
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