Good question.

That would explain the 1/8 twist I have to the vertical shafts
I had on my #6 drives.

Maybe Scott or Marc. from Geico can shed some light!

I have lots of experience with the PT6, and always thought it would lend itself well to boating. However, no experience (yet!) with high performance boating. The PT6 is available in 500 hp up to a little over 1200 hp. IIRC, they weigh about 300 lbs. The exhaust is indeed part of the power section, the duct starts about (guessing) a foot away from the output shaft.

Canthe output shaft of the PT6 be stoped with the engine still running like the T53? If not, then your into a shifting issue.

Yes, it is a free turbine. At idle, it is putting out about 30 hp or so. But, it can be stopped.

Dont know if ya can see this but this is how we stop the t53.

I am familiar with the brake set-up .

Whose caliper mount is that?

Dont know.

The original owner of my boat had these made.
I have all the rigging exhaust reverse current relays,
SCS crashboxes. Fresh water rinse built into the turbine intakes. Air system to operate the air over hydraulics
which operates the caliper.
I even have the micro switches built into the shifts
which engages the calipers which stops n2 so you can shift the
SCS.



This was one of the deciding factors on going back to
turbines.
What is the biggest expense in rigging a boat with turbines?

The amount of Corona required to figure how all the SH@T
goes together.:D

Your threads I would say rank as some of my favorite.

Do you think arnesons will be needed/required with turbines?

NOPE THAT BOAT HAD 6S BEFORE WITH THEM. Gerry I will call you in the morning so we can hook up this week for the faring, I am trying to get to mikes too to help him not that he needs it, just to help lower the motor in orhook up something:D. I didn't make it to day wife had me doing a lot of stuff hear. so it looks like a go congrats. art:boat::boat::boat::boat:

With a twisted shaft! :evilb: :evilb: :evilb: I spose if you go easy on them.... but who wants to do that! :D :D

Gotta love turbines.

Expect to burn 60% fuel at idle as you do at WOT. Or maybe it's all the flames!:ernaehrung004:

Looks like you've thought this through...It's honestly not that difficult of an installation, especially if you know whats going on.

Have you thought about a steering system- 12v electric pump? And how does the air over hydraulic system work?

Brad.

That Corona adds up...

That boat has a direct drive from the turbine; start it and the shaft is turning. Geared down but no transmission, crashbox, etc. Couple boats do this, especially if the output is turning high RPMs, and the shaft can't be braked reasonably.

That picture of the twisted sister is before the rebuilds now
it has the herring swept backs and all the gears have been replaced. To the tune of $15,000 Gotta love mercury:rolleyes:


Will leave the sixes for now. Arnesons will be in my sights.

Now that I have commited to turbines.
I have taken a closer look at the original rigging.

I called the original owner to pick his brain on what some of the stuff was for.

Look at this picture one turbine bell housing has the bracket
the other does not.

He told me it was for a PTO "like alternator".
However the Pto pulley on the inner shaft is missing
That is why it was not obvious.

So I looked through my ever growing pile of Boat Junk
and came up with a pulley after centering and bolting should work fine.

Power steering...........Got ya covered.

This is what they used.
A massive 12 volt dc motor directly mounted to your standard KRC power steering pump.


Dont know if I will go back to this. It weighs more then my
x-wife and draws a massive amount of current.


I,m thinking using the PTO above to drive a alternator
for the 12 volt charge and double up The power steering off that.

Now if I can go off to GEEK ville here for a minute.

This is what I,m thinking.

The tubine requires 24 volt to start the spool
then when it flames You flip a sitch to activate the reverse
current relay which charges the 24 volt batteries.

Instead of running 24 volt and 12 volt batterys whay not arrange contactors to series the 12 volt batterys to go to 24
volt when ignition key goes to start.

Then I am faced with how to charge them with the turbine generator becausease they charge 24.

This is whay I beleave they run two different volt batterys.

The consumption of beer or drugs may shed some light on the above dilema.

Good thread. Your asking the right questions.

Throttling a turbine boat is "similar" to throttling a piston boat "correctly". You use very little throw. Just enough to take the load off.. The key to running a turbine boat is keeping your compressor above 80%. Just like racing a car,cart or bike stay in the powerband. Remember there is no driveline lag to slow your boat down quickly so be prepared to "coast" a little in a turbine cat. Requires some practice and you will spike a bit more than a piston boat. You'll get the hang of it.

Steering. Right now both our turbine boats use a conventional Capalano hydraulic helm.

Can the turbine over rev, causing expensive damage?

Is this the time to convert to arnesons?

Reverse current relay is good. Flip switch from start to charge. 24v from the relays is not a bad idea, just be sure that you can feed the starters with enough current. There are some electronics boxes to change 24 to 12, kinda like a charge isolator. Personally, I'd run two sets.

Sixes need a lot of flow to turn quick, still trying to find a pump that works...current one won't cut it.

The KRC i used on the piston engines was not really up to the task eithier. And I had a pulley on it the size of a dime.
There was a slight pullsation at idle.
The turbines will idle higher so using this same pump may surfice.

You had asked how the electric air over hydraulic work.

When 24 volt (micro switch on shifter) is applied to the coil the air from the onboard air compressor is fed to the pneumatic valve causing the cylinder to compressor. This is mechanicaly connected to
the master cylinder which is hydraulic connected to the caliper
this engages the caliper. Stopping the rotor.

Pretty neat aye?

The limiting factor on this install would most likely
be the sixes. They are all fresh and ready to be torn up.

The only way I will convert unless Rik Wimp at Arneson
is going to swop me for the sixes. But I,m pretty sure I know the answer hell give me.:hitfan:

the AMF/Geico 51 ol has the sixes and they seem to do ok, except when they split the case in half in 2005 at Point Pleasant, and that boat is probably a good chunk heavier than the cat?

The sixes will last longer with the Turbines infront of them than the piston engines. This has been proven.

If you swap the sixes for arnisons, your steering will change some (around the docks), or you could fix the drive and install a ruder.

If the sixes worked in the past, why change?

Hey Howie did you build this turbine?

Ahhhh.. Bull Shti

Docking will not be different, worst or anything bad.

Rudder around docks, now that would be a nightmare!

A rudder is definitely more work at slow speeds.but once you get the hang of it is not that bad. On one engine it is very challenging. Essentially it's like docking a yacht you steer with your engines not your rudder.

However, once your running in a high speed and or competitive application the rudder/bpm set up is the only way to go.

I do not believe the sixes will give you the ride or reliability you are looking for.

m

Is that system something you came up with or did you get it as a complete unit? Whats the advantage over an electric-hydraulic unit?


Hey Marc, so you're running a fully manual system, no power assist?

Good thread guys.

You have to dock them just like you dock a boat with a crash box.

Above 50-60 they start to work well, below that is another story.

That is correct. It gives me a very acute feeling of where the boat is (direct feedback) while turning at high speeds and in rough water. There is a bit more resistance but it's very "true" feedback.

Not sure that is needed in pleasure application ...up to the individual

Not really sure the advantages over elec/hyd.

Here is the alternator setup I was refering to earlier.

I,m still hashing out how I will setup the voltages.
Maybe one 12 volt battery
Two 24 volt for the engines.

On this alternator setup I am thinking about doubling up the alt pulley and running the KRC power steering off the
side.

Marc thanks for the advice on the phone.
Sorry I missed you in Jersey.


I cant imagine running a boat at speeds beyond
"aircraft take off speeds".
I will leave that to you pro,s.:cool-smiley-027:

Here is some shots of the combuster housings.

oooooohhhhhhhhhh I like those.

Gerry,

Congrats on going Turbine, you are my hero!

Would love to do that but,,,,I have 40min of no-wake each way to get where I can run. The idle fuel consumption would kill my range with only 160 gallon tank! I've heard it is as much as 85% of WOTconsumption, but that at WOT the turbine is more efficient than equal power piston.:ernaehrung004:

I've got an article in Boatbuilder Magazine from a couple years ago that I just found...will scan and send. It covers combined 12/24 volt systems, especially how to set up for charging and drawing off. Voltage dividers, dc to dc converters, other fun stuff. Best e-mail to send it to?

Brad, Thanks for the support!



You have a pm.

I'm loving this turbine thing you're doing and would love to do it myself someday if I ever get the finances. I've got a question for you though. Wouldn't you be better off running the power steering direct from the first pulley and then run the alternator from it by doubling? It seems to me the PS is going to have more inherent drive force needed than an alternator and would be better off being on the "primary" driven pulley than the parasite pulley, and in the event that the draw of both was more than the primary v-belt could pull you could always swap out to a gilmer (timing) belt to cure the slip issue. Just a thought I had.

My Hero something great to read through the winter.

Good point in the advent that it does slip. I was thinking installing it on the other bell housing. However I may need a alt. on the other depending on which way we decide to wire it.


Thanks for all the support every one!
:ernaehrung004: