Valve Seat Repair
 

I have 2004 35 Fountain with EFI 500's after a leakdown test we found#8 cylinder is low in compression. I am told this is due to probably a valve seat problem Can anybody tell me the estimated cost of this repair and does the engine need to be pulled.

How many hours? You are probably due for a full valve spring replacement.

140 hours boat runs great, no noise just low in one cylinder. Shop estimate is $2000.00 and wants to pull the engine to do the repair.

If in fact it's just the valve in #8 and nothing else....don't bother pulling the engine. It's another $5-600 in labor that you would be wasting to R&R the engine.

If I were doing the work I would R&R both heads and do valve jobs and springs on both heads. If you replace all the valves new that should cost you about $1000 tolal (machine head surfaces, 3 angle valve jobs, springs and valves) then labor for removing and installing the heads. I would use the money you would have spent removing the engine and replace the roller lifters while you're in there....

I wouldn't bother removing the engine to do top end work, you don't really need to. Also, make sure they pressure test your headers....a leak could have caused all this.

Just my opinion...

Frank

It's really a catch 22 on whether to pull the engine or not. If it just needs a valve job there is no need to pull the engine. However, more often than not when we get the heads off of an engine we find other problems that require the engine to be pulled anyway. So, it ends up costing the customer more money(assuming it was their decision to not pull the engine after it was recommended to do so). It is also real easy to drop the pan and inspect the bottom end while it's out. $2000 to do that job is VERY reasonable. Most shops would charge 1500-2000 just in labor to pull the engine and R&R the heads.

In all honesy, it doesn't make a difference cost wise whether you pull the heads and find a problem or whether you pull the engine then pull the heads... It's only a matter of where you hook up the chain! :hitfan:

but I agree, they would need to determine if there was anything else wrong.

In this case, I would suggest to have the repair shop pull the ONE head off and determine if the valve/seat is the only problem. If that's all it is, pull the other head and service it as well. It should be no more than 45 min to an hour labor to pull one head.

In most cases, our HP boats were kept on a lift in the marina and if we had to R&R the engine we also had to charge them for a launch/haul. So in most cases it made sense to troubleshoot the problem before ripping a motor out.

I found too often than not, the customers I was servicing would get really pissed when they found out from a friend/relative or other shop that something was done that didn't need to be done unless it was at the request of the customer. :ernaehrung004:

140 hours is kind of low to be finding other problems besides the heads. It can happen, but normally doesn't as these motors in a lighter 35' boat should last 300 to 500 hours on the bottom end easily. Your shop may want to pull the motors due to the tight confines of the 35' bilge. The headers will have to be removed and sometimes, the bilge layout won't allow for a good work area. In my opinion, don't pull the motor unless you have to especially just for a head job. Cost should be less than the $2K quoted for just the one engine for only the head job.

Thanks for all you help!

You can have a 500 out in about 20mins....:ernaehrung004: 30 if you haven't pulled the drive....:D well.....maybe not in a Fontaine.....

Pretty easy with air tools!!!:cool:

But he still has to pay for an R&R. I just assume put the $600 (or whatever it costs) towards a new set of roller lifters.

Even if they pull the one head and the engine needs to be pulled it doesn't make a difference in cost (labor)....I'd just have to lay the head back on with 4 head bolts (2 either end) OR put the chain in a different spot on the engine. Plus I'd have easier access to the offshore mounts on that side with the head off.

If the shop wants to give him a deal on the R&R just so it makes it easier for the mechanic to do the work then they should eat the cost of the R&R IMHO... :ernaehrung004: