Will I have problems with one night below freezing?!
11-16-2007, 07:58 PM
#22
Registered User
We both live in NE Ohio- surely you remember a couple years ago the whole area was without power for 2 or 3 days. It doesn't matter if they have mega million dollar lots in a billion-dollar secure facility. If they lose power, they'll lose heat. Maybe your chances are slim. If you spend 90 minutes on the boat winterizing it, you're definitely covered.
I'm pretty anal. I pull the engines every winter.
11-16-2007, 08:03 PM
#23
Registered User
While were on the subject. What does it take to rust the cylinders. i.e. how cold for how long. I'm taking delivery of a boat in 2 weeks and the owner put anti-freeze in (no fogging) and I'm having it fully winterized as soon as I get it. Should I be worried about rust in the cylinders. I checked the weather and it should not get below freezing before I get the boat.
Rust on internals has nothing to do with the cold. It's how much moisture is in the engine. If the seller can do this, you'll be all set-
Pull the plugs and spray into the cylinders. Replace the plugs. Pull the arrestors and open the throttle, then spray while cranking. Tape off the carb openings. Spray into the exhaust, then duct tape the pipes closed. You should have zero issues.
In reality, unless it's really wet, 2 weeks should have little effect.
11-16-2007, 08:43 PM
#24
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Just winterize it as soon as possible and you should have nothing to worry about. If you don't know what your doing then let a professional do it. Don't forget to check the out-drive and make sure there is now water in it. Oil will be the color of coffee with cream in it. Empty the porta-potti if you have one.
11-16-2007, 08:49 PM
#25
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Well I have to thank you guys for pushing me in the right direction. While I don't have any experience with this engine and didn't want to do too much, but picked up the manual to see what I could/wanted to do. While that turned out to be not much, I did just go out into the driveway and shivered my way through opening the drains and using the blue pump to purge the water. That's gotta be better than nothing, and I'm glad that icy cold water is no longer in my engine 
11-17-2007, 11:59 AM
#27
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Most people sell their boat before it needs to be winterized. I would just sell it, maybe trade it to the dealer for cash. Being an 07 it will not have lost any value so call it a year of running free. Not. I have dog water out and it has only had a skim on it so no sweat there. You should do the full deal, train all fluids, except anti freeze if a closed system, water in the oils; drive and crank case, will rust and pit causing premature failure. Treat the fuel, run it for a good long time, when warm shut it down, then change the oil, the drive should be done after a day out on the trailer so it flows and particles are suspended, it will not flow at all now. Battery out, inside on trickle, all gear out and left to air and dry, key out, it is a source of corrosion...disimilar metals. Release anything under tension, let everything "relax"....belts, cables, drives down to depressurise, it took me all day to pickle 2 big blocks and a 32ft boat but I have seen just about everything happen except a cracked block....but the freeze plugs popped. I do like the pull idea, I did that because I had to many years, inside a stable environment so there are no temp fluctuations and no condensation......no rust. Plus I would rather look at a big block motor in my house than TV......
11-19-2007, 11:35 AM
#28
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496HO is closed loop cooling, so the engine block is safe for the winter if the antifreeze is good. The air activated quick drain is for the exhaust manifold, etc. There are also several plugs (blue?) that can be removed to get those last drops out. There were some other threads discussing the location of those plugs.
If you can't find the blue pump, any regular bike pump will do, or the local gas station air hose. It doesn't take that much
If you can't find the blue pump, any regular bike pump will do, or the local gas station air hose. It doesn't take that much
11-20-2007, 08:44 PM
#29
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I would winterize just to get the water out of the block and manifolds and some rust inhibitor in. These things are too expensive to let rot. Also you would be surprised how much water there is in the hoses.
Whats that blow out thing? sounds like something I need! I have been connecting the inlet from the seawater pump to a bucket of antifreeze and using the seawater pump to fill the engines
Whats that blow out thing? sounds like something I need! I have been connecting the inlet from the seawater pump to a bucket of antifreeze and using the seawater pump to fill the engines
