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Conventional V-bottom hydronamics question..........

Old 12-22-2007, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmic12
Yes I do think (I know) A.T. has changed things around. There is different stepp inserts for the molds for different drive and power combos.
Mark, you are right on the money. Harry Schoell is 5 doors down from AT, and is integral to the entire process. He has direct input on the hull/step/bottom & a LOT of things; on a regular and consistent basis.



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Great thread Gerrard!

Last edited by Sydwayz; 12-22-2007 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:54 AM
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Well it sucks if your an AT owner that say has 496's and are sick of going 75 mph and want to put in some big power and 6 drives, not only do you have to rework the transom the whole bottom has to be re worked if it can be.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:03 PM
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Great thread, Monstaaa has shared an example with the 24 and 28 skater. It is a good example highlighting that speed is effected as much or more by hull design than length and even weight.

There is so much more to a great boat ride than how fast or smooth it rides. There must be a thousand different things that play a part. Personal preference varies as much as the boats themselves.

So aside for speed it is all subjective, handling, how smooth the ride is, how good in the rough. Even quality becomes subjective at times.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Semper Fi
OKAY................. Here's another question...




The 38 TS TG didn't need much tab at all. I think it's one of the best rides out there that I have ever been in. Boat flys very level.

The 38 PP rides even slightly smoother.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:10 PM
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Lapseofreason, It is probably more cost effective to buy the boat you want and not try to make the boat in to something different.

Is the speedo the only fun meter?
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LapseofReason
Well it sucks if your an AT owner that say has 496's and are sick of going 75 mph and want to put in some big power and 6 drives, not only do you have to rework the transom the whole bottom has to be re worked if it can be.

This has been a great thread...

This applies to all boats, and the chances of someone going to larger power, upgrading to 6's, adding a tranny, more batteries and so on..it obviously would be WAY more cost effective to sell the boat, and start fresh.

My experience with 2000 single step Top Gun that I owned vs the Single step 2003 37 A.T. is not even close, as to ride quality, steering at certain speeds (twin step TG is excellent-just so you Cig guys didnt get your panties all in a bunch)...Too much hear say on this thread, unless you've owned one or driven one. Where's the 38PP when you need them.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN
Lapseofreason, It is probably more cost effective to buy the boat you want and not try to make the boat in to something different.

Is the speedo the only fun meter?
I know that but a lot of people repower and go bigger, And no the speedo is not the only fun meter, that is why I am selling my 100mph boat for a 65-75 mph Center Console. I am done with big power and am going to outboards.

It's funny how you say that, 4 years ago when I wanted to sell my 42 Sonic to get something faster almost everybody on here was telling me to add superchargers or big power to my 42.drop 100k for 10 mph on a flat bottom boat where were you then.

I would be interested to know what other builders change the bottom for what power is ordered, from what Terry Sobo told me my 98 50 Nortech has the same bottom a 2008 has, just the cockpit liner has changed. I would think that if alot of builders do it when you are buying a used boat you better make sure it has close to the same stuff it was ordered with.
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Old 12-22-2007, 01:17 PM
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Okay so now that all the experts are keyed in to this thread, when seting up my outboards on my Midnight which has a 24 degree V with a pad, what height should drives be in relation to bottom. ( I will be going with quads)

On my last Midnight I was running the bullets of the nose cones (Bob's low water pick ups) even with the bottom of the boat. (No pad on old Midnight) Even higher than shown in pict when I added brackets to outers.

Now that my new Midnight has a pad, can I run the drives even higher?? And other than the obvious water pressure what negative effects will it have?

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails Conventional V-bottom hydronamics question..........-z-midnight-home-2.jpg   Conventional V-bottom hydronamics question..........-z-old-midnight-bracket-side.jpg  
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Old 12-22-2007, 01:35 PM
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Good stuff all around.
One way to resolve many questions is to test. Here is the dilemma. Mags, testing or builder test are not apples to apples. This is planned due to marketing.
I toss this in "the mix”. Let’s have a true test on one of the popular PR. Same weight, same HP. Sim. Lengths, same water conditions, same gal.’s of fuel. . Now.. we can compare boats.
I’ll bet no one will willing to do it. Can’t use the typ. excurses. Fuel, passengers, HP, etc.
Just a thought.. and that’s why boating is personal preference and $’s at the end of the day.

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Old 12-22-2007, 02:48 PM
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i have done many repeat scenarios as far as set up.

typicly the c.g is responsible for step placement on a steped bottom(whether 1,2 or more steps) and optimal handling , speed and safety on any hull. then every thing else is applied, x-dimension, batteries , trim pumps, etc,,,, .
this is conducive for a thorough rig.
if it is done correctly then water conditions, fuel load, occupancy, power, etc,,, do not tremendously effect original characteristics of said boat.
proof of this is in the picture above.
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