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Freeing up a corroded stainless/aluminum joint

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Old 01-10-2008, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
If that doesn't work combined with heat it's time to give up.
dude, I remember when no one knew about pb blast...... I bought a can and had it at the marina...everyone looked at me like I was crazy!

Best stuff I ever used!
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Old 01-10-2008, 05:06 PM
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After bailing me out on the engine connector deal, you're going to let me down on this one? OH - Man!!!!

Maybe Brownie will know.......
If you find the cure...let me know !!! Alum and Stainless "seize" together when they are tightened. I have not found ANYTHING to break them lose once they are seized. Dave
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Old 01-10-2008, 05:57 PM
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Chuck I use PB blast a lot as well as Kroil Also I will use "Rust Buster
http://markal.com/ProductDetails49.aspx

Some times it takes all three but usually after soaking with each and some time usually I get things free.

If you would like I can get all three to you.
Good luck.

Take care,
Rob
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:10 PM
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You may get them to unfreeze but the threads will probably gaul up with you break them free. LOTS of heat on the alluminum is your best bet.
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:22 PM
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PB blast it for a day or two. Heat the screw liberally with a torch, then put it in the freezer or put it in a bunch of crushed ice. Should do the job, might have to do it twice. Save some ice for margaritas when you're done
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:49 PM
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try some sort of acid like used to clean aluminium rims
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Old 01-10-2008, 10:00 PM
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I found some PB blaster at work and soaked the parts down pretty good tonight. I have already bought the replacement aluminum parts, so I'm not worried about scrapping them. We'll see what some elbow grease and heat does on Saturday when I get back over to the shop.

Thanks for the help, guys!
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Old 01-10-2008, 10:27 PM
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I found some PB blaster at work and soaked the parts down pretty good tonight. I have already bought the replacement aluminum parts, so I'm not worried about scrapping them. We'll see what some elbow grease and heat does on Saturday when I get back over to the shop.

Thanks for the help, guys!

LOL, I guess they don't find many corroded parts where you work, huh Chuck, bet the can was full when you found it
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Old 01-11-2008, 07:10 AM
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Sux - lucky you don't need the aluminum piece.

The key to the heat & cold is to heat the aluminum without heating the bolt, then chill the bolt. The bigger the temperature spread between the two the more chance of sucess. Giant tip on oxy-acetylene torch - heat the aluminum fast - then there is just a few seconds before the bolt starts to heat.

In the day we would hit the bolt with liquid freon to chill it selectively (wear safety goggles, I'm sure we contributed to global warming/lost ozone layer , but heck - who knew ?) Today we use a big bottle of CO2 (still global warming, but at least you don't wind up in jail)

If not successful, let it sit for a few hours, spray with PB or Kroll, then do it again.

Takes a little feel to not melt the aluminum. A propane torch just isn't hot enough for the fast heating you need in extreme cases.

Good luck - and do not forget the margaritas when finished.
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Old 01-11-2008, 07:18 AM
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ps - Freon around an open flame or red hot metal turns into all kinds of nasty acids & poison gas
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