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Freeing up a corroded stainless/aluminum joint

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Old 02-19-2008, 02:03 PM
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Here's a text version of Nick's Galvanic chart. This is specific to salt water applications, too!

Galvanic Series in Seawater
A galvanic series has been drawn up for metals and alloys in seawater, which shows their relative nobility. The series is based on corrosion potential measurements in seawater. The relative position of the materials can change in other environments. The further apart the materials are in this series, the higher the risk of galvanic corrosion.

Note: There's a big difference between plain and passivated stainless....

Me, I'm just going to build my next boat exclusively out of Platinum, Gold, Graphite and Titanium!!!

Most cathodic, noble, or resistant to corrosion
Platinum
Gold
Graphite
Titanium
Silver
Chlorimet 3
Hastelloy C
18-8 Mo stainless steel (passive)
18-8 stainless steel (passive)
Chromium steel >11 % Cr (passive)
Inconel (passive)
Nickel (passive)
Silver solder
Monel
Bronzes
Copper
Brasses
Chlorimet 2
Hastelloy B
Inconel (active)
Nickel (active)
Tin
Lead
Lead-tin solders
18-8 Mo stainless steel (active)
18-8 stainless steel (active)
Ni-resist
Chromium steel >11 % Cr (active)
Cast iron
Steel or iron
2024 aluminum
Cadmium
Commercially pure aluminium
Zinc
Magnesium and its alloys

Most anodic or easy to corrode
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Old 02-19-2008, 02:20 PM
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Good Luck !!! I have "seized" stainless and aluminum together and NEVER got it apart !!!! Time for the torches / saws all and new parts. Sorry, Dave
uuugh huh. Glad you got it apart tho. Dave
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Old 02-19-2008, 02:43 PM
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I Still think my BAJABOB 38 idea is the best,cheapest,and fastest method.
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:01 PM
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I Still think my BAJABOB 38 idea is the best,cheapest,and fastest method.
Since WHEN has BajaBob38 been any of those three things????
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