Re-rig/ Conversion pics from Pulse Drive to Bravo
03-11-2008, 10:07 AM
#31
VIP Member
. . . In case of nuclear attack . . . climb in bilge . . .
I dont know why it never occurred to me to run the grain on a 0-90 bias. Great idea!
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
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10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
03-11-2008, 10:26 AM
#32
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Plywood is criss-crossed under the veneer anyway I thought. If you were to go at 45* there might be an advantage if you could find a big enough sheet
03-11-2008, 10:41 AM
#33
Geronimo36
Gold Member
What you are looking at is only the first layer of plywood. There are 2 more layers that went over that. That was put in that way to be able to fill the outside. I did not want to cut the outside of the transom and mess up the original glass and gelcoat. You just fill the outside and make it flush with what is already there. The inside then got 2 full layers of plywood with glass in between each layer and then over the top of the last layer. All layers of plywood are 90* to each other to prevent any flexing. It is probably stronger than it was, because the holes you see in the first pictures were open. They were there for the transmission to pass through the transom. Now the transom is solid and has the gimble tying it all together.
It is also almost a 1/2" thicker than it was. You guys are right, just patching a transom with a small piece of wood would not be sufficient in my opinion.
Eddie
It is also almost a 1/2" thicker than it was. You guys are right, just patching a transom with a small piece of wood would not be sufficient in my opinion.
Eddie
Sure looks like it was patched, faired an glassed over to me, rather than just as a plug for glassing the outside.
03-11-2008, 10:49 AM
#34
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Should be plenty strong
03-11-2008, 11:24 AM
#35
Half an inch deeper should actually help lift the bow, as long as the prop is dialed in correctly.
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03-11-2008, 11:31 AM
#36
Geronimo36
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Maybe pictures of the whole project would have been usefull to show the stages but the pics posted sure do look like it was patched and the thickness once the transom is cut out appears to be about two inches, so the old transom must have been REALLY thin...not a boat I'd want to buy to begin with.
Not trying to start anything here but the extra pictures would have been really helpful.
03-11-2008, 12:06 PM
#37
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On mine, pictured above, we cut out the hole for the transom assy before we glassed the wood in so that we could use c-clamps as well as various jacks and boards, makes sure that everything is bonded immediately around the assy. They may have used the bolt holes for the same purpose
Last edited by Wobble; 03-11-2008 at 12:09 PM.
03-11-2008, 01:30 PM
#38
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OK, let's start with the necessary disclainer:
"This boat is not an Apache, nor was it ever an Apache. As far as I know, no Apache or other Native American tribesmen have ridden on this boat. This boat was once trailered not far behind a truck pulling an Apache, and an Apache owner once enjoyed riding in this boat when his Apache was broke."
There, now that that's out of the way, here's a picture of the original transom, cut to house the transmissions used for the pulsedrive. The transom is 2" thick and made from a microlaminate South American hardwood that I forgot the name of.
03-11-2008, 01:48 PM
#39
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03-11-2008, 02:09 PM
#40
Geronimo36
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