Towing 9000lbs. with class III hitch
 

Anyone out there towing alot of weight with a class III hitch? Having any problems? My truck came with that hitch and I don't want to have any problems towing my boat/trailer total weight of around 9000 lbs.
I know it would be better with a class IV, but it's a new truck and I've never heard of anyone breaking a class III. I do have a solid ball mount, so that's not an issue.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Dave (toolman)

toolman,

You can double the capacity of any hitch w/ a weight distributing add on device for you hitch. If you are currently rated at 5k, then you will be good for 10k with this.

Keep this in mind though. Just because the hitch can handle 10,000 lbs doens't mean the vehicle can.

You should be able to buy a weight distribution device from any quality parts store, truck accessory store, or hitch retailer.

Good luck.

Buck
#183

I don't think you can use surge brakes with a weight distribution hitch can you?

A class V hitch rated for 10,000 lbs is $200 why take the chance?

Yes, as long as they are setup properly. The chains cannot be positioned to where they exert any pushing or pulling forces while driving.

I just lived the whole tow weight deal, ya da ya da....
old vehicle did fine class III, I was towing more than recommended.
For safety sake, get what your vehicle book recommends (hitch) there is a difference, stamps on a bumper or stickers on a hitch are just that. N/A
Upgrade your hitch, no load transferring jugga ma bob stuff...
You are not the first to be where you are. Like I said I was breaking the rules, I was lucky I did not have some kind of crisis etc...
What kind of truck do you have?

Me; 2001 F250 PSD 4x4

Good luck and be safe.
Bryan

I thought the same thing that you can not use a load equilizing hitch and surge brakes. I am going through the same thing. I have an PSD excursion with a crappy 5000lb weight carrying capacity with no aftermarket hitch repalcement avaliable.(except for the one that Nort has but I can not find anyone to weld it on for me) So I am being told I have to use a weight distributing hitch and can not use surge brakes? What is the deal? Help.:confused:

Bought a Titan V "Reese" hitch off e-bay...brand new for $125.00 plus shipping $30.00. You can also purchase a kit that adapts to the surge break trailer that does away with surge type setup and converts over to an electric brake on a hydraulic setup

Why would you possibly consider pulling 9000lbs with an under rated hitch? What happens when it proves to you why it's rated for only 5000lbs? Will your insurance not cover you if they learn that the hitch broke because it was overloaded?

Is it worth the risk for the price of a tank of gas... get the right equipment so you don't loose the trailer a hurt another driver on the road.

Toolman , Whats up ? I do hitches every day ,all day ! Stop by ,call, or e-mail me with what you have and I'll help you out .908-782-0688 .What truck do you have ? What is the rating on the hitch ? Class 3 dosen't mean much anymore .there should be a rating on it such as 5,000/10,000 or 6,000/12,000 etc. the smaller # 5000 is weight with hitch alone .larger # 10,000 is with weight distributing . You can use it if it is set right . Your chains need to be long enough to allow the coupler to move . The sweet thing would be to get rid of the serge coupler ,put the electric unit on that controls the hydraulic brakes . A little more $$$ but it's sweet ! You say you have a solid bar hitch head ? That is only rated for 7500lbs . Better then the hollow one @ 5,000. Also what is the ball rated at ? You should have at least a 10,000lbs ball . I can get them up to $35,000lbs ,so don't worry !! :D :D

Get in touch ,I'll set you up ! JOE

The problem with using a class III hitch to tow 9000lbs is not tounge weight or normal towing. Its panick stops. The highest loads are generated during high acceleration rates (positive or negative). Think about how much quicker a car will stop than accelerate. In panick stops the class III hitch will have problems, will most likely yeild, could break or pull the attachment bolts out of the tow vehicle. Either way, its not good.

At minimum you should go with a classIV hitch. even a class IV only has a 7500 lb dead weight rating and 10,000lbs weight distributing. A class V will handle the 10,000lbs dead weight.

There are adapters that allow surge brakes to work with weight distributing hitches. I can get you the manufacturers name and number if your interested.

Also when buying your hitch, look for the V5 on the rating tag. V5 is a testing regiment that the industry uses as its standard when setting the ratings. Reese, DrawTite and all "factory" hitches use this system. Some local manufacturers do not.


Bigger is always better when it comes to towing around your pride and joy with the family in the tow vehicle.

Thunderdan, are you sure about that excursion hitch? I've got a buddy with an Excursion and a class IV DrawTite. Its a great hitch. Very heavy and well built. Load distributing will get you where you need to be with the AT. Get the electric brakes and the surge thing is no longer a problem. If salt water is an issue for the electric brakes, get the electric/surge brakes. Either way there is no problem with the weight distributing hitch.

Boot,
A question on the trailer brakes.
I currently have a loadmaster aluminum trailer with surge brakes, can I change it to electric ?
How do I go about doing that?

Do not put electric brakes on . THey will go bad quick if you dunk the trailer ! and they do not have the stopping power of hydraulic brakes . What people are talking about is using the hydraulic brakes that are on the wheels now , but remove the serge coupler from the front , install a solid mounted coupler on the front of the trailer , and install an electric control box that mounts on the front of the trailer . This unit is like an electric pump . When you apply the truck brakes , the electric brake control mounted in the truck ,sends power to this hydraulic pump on the front of the trailer . That sends fluid pumping back to the hydraulic brakes . And that is some good stopping power !

You will need the brake controler in the truck , the unit for the trailer , and the adaptor kit to hook your existing brake lines to the unit . hydraulic "Disc" brakes can also be added for the best of all worlds !

Did that help ,or confuse you ?:p

As far as which ones to use . There are many out there now . I would call the trailer factory and see which one if any they have used and if they like them . Also ,call big companies like Myco ,Eagle etc . I have seen them with this unit under many new Cigarettes etc. I have not herd any problems with any of them ,but there are not alot out yet . The only one that scares me is the one that says you don't need a controller in the truck . THat can not be good ! You have to have a way to regulate how much power it needs . If I can do more just ask .

I pulled an 8500lb trailer with a Jeep Grand Cherokee for 2 years...

hehe.

No problems...

(other than two transmissions.)

:p :D

Boot,
The truck is already set up for electric brakes(I have them on a snowmobile trailer) I just want to convert the surge actuater to an electric one.
Is this something unique to the trailer manufacture or a generic item that I can buy at any trailer store. I'm sure changing the tonque to a solid one isn't too bad , just the rest of the stuff.

Yes ,the unit just bolts on any old way you like . And any brand you think is good . Like I said I would call the trailer companies just to see which brands are working good .

You do need to make sure you pick the one that fits your needs . They make ones that are for 1 axle ,2 axle, 3 axle . and they go by weight ratings also . The range from around $350- $1000

I believe the Fords come with a Class 4, 500/5000. This on my F250 PSD rated @ 10,000. WTF? Don't forget the the solid ball mount and ball with a 1-1/4" shank.

Kevin,

Unfortunately I am sure. The factory installed welded hitch is only good for 5k lb weight carrying, and a tad over 10k for distributing. I would like to know if your friend had his done aftermarket. I was told that a aftermarket hitch is not avaliable for the Excursion? I think I am going to wind up going the distributing route with the hydralic brakes with the electric control box. Better to be safe than sorry.

Mack 312 picked up his new Suburban with every heavy Duty option known to man!!! The truck is rated over 10,000 lbs but the factory hitch is only class 3 !!! it has 4 mounting points. Now he has to buy a Reese class IV {6 mounting holes} What is GM thinking ???!!! They used to have a class IV factory hitch.

I thought that the Excursion used the same hitchs as an F250-F350, aren't they the same frame? A good hitch shop should beable to tell just by looking, if not park it nextto the same year pickup and take some measurements. Both Reese and Drawtite sell heavy duty hitchs that should fit, I have a Drawtite but if I had to do it over again I would get the Reese Titan-V rated at 12000/14000, it also has a 2 1/2" receiver but you can get adapters to use your old 2" draw bars for your lighter trailers.
Reese's on line catalog only goes up to 2000 but it does show 2 different width frames for the F250-350.
It's worth the money not to have something to worry about, a lot of people get away with the class3 hitches but they are an accident waiting to happen.
Caleb

Just spoke with the guy I bought my Reese Titan from for my F350. He said that last years book does show a Titan offering for an Excursion but it does not show up in this years book. He is going to call Reese and find out what is actually available. I'll let you know what I find out.

I called my buddy with the DrawTite on his Excursion, but he is out until next week.

THere is no hitch from Reese ,draw tite or any others that I know of that make a hitch for the EX. The one on there is actualy part of the factory designed frame ! YES ! It is a giant cross member that happen to look like a hitch . Some one said there was a custom one you can buy but I don't know where . If anyone finds it let me know .I am in the hitch buisness and would like info on it myself.

Dan The Reese guy just called back and confirmed what boot said. Reese had released a hitch for the Excursion but didn't sale any and never actually built one. Unless my buddy comes through, looks like weight distributing and electric/surge brakes are the way to go.

I am a dealer for Draw Tite and Hidden Hitch. Just checked w/ both of them on the Excursion for a Class IV and V. No dice on either one.

Does someone know something I don't?

Buck
#183

Wow!!! Look what I started!

Thanks guys for all your ideas.

Boot, I'll get in touch with you in a few days. My budget tells me to get the elec. brake actuator later, but I will look into a heavier duty hitch. My truck is a 2001 Yukon with a 5000/10,000 hitch. Who near us would give me the best deal on a new hitch? (you?)

You can e-mail me if you want. Thanks!

Dave