Cone Job Gone Bad!!?
 

What is going on here - Bad cone job and bondo coming off or something more crazy - what needs to be done to fix this problem - Don't really need a cone only running 50-55mph - Not real sure of the year but might be a '90 bravo1 -

bu bu bu bu bayyyad....bad to the cone!

I say try to take it off, fair the origin aluminum out and paint it.

That's what I thought - remove it and try to rework to original - Easy fix or gut wrenching - All new to me - And should I worry about it this season or fix it over winter?

Atleast put some good paint on it after cleaning it good.

So the water can not get under it and destroy more of the original parts.
Other then that ,check it once in a wile so that you not loose it and it hits your prop.

Should be fine though ?????!

Thanks Daredevil - I'll clean it - patch it - and ride the season out - Still would like to know what to do over the winter for a permanent fix - any and all help is great -

get that skeg fixed too. the can weld it all at the same time this winter

You should at least smooth it out and paint it for this season and then deal with it over the winter. The rough spot cause aeration and that will burn your prop, you will start to have dull looking spots on it and it will eat it away over time, doesn't take that long either. As others said, at your speed you are best off just removing it and repairing the front of the lower unit. It is not that big of a deal, just takes some patience to make it look good. Pretty similar to body work really. When you do repair it properly just make sure you use a filler material that doesn't contain and metal, if it is dissimilar to the alloy used in the case corrosion can get ugly quick.

Yea I'll clean it up and repaint it or seal it for this year - I also thought that aeration could affect the prop - I even noticed a little spin and had to trim down - What about the skeg? - semms a little short maybe - what do you see racesdad?

Yep, skeg is to short someone cut it of after running a ground or so.
They make nice original replacements ,to weld on.

The best bet ofcorse would be to buy a new lower and be done with it.

Used ones ,you can get for maybe 1000-1500 bucks.

Its a boat , get used to spending more then you thought .LOL

Thought about a new lower but yea it is a boat and spending is easy to come buy - I need to decide what is more important on the spending - want to upgrade to many things - motor, lower, interior, guages, stereo, etc, - I love my boat

Well, see it this way .,,,,,,,,if you whant to upgrade the engine ,you need a new drive anyways.,,,,,,,so do what you need first,,,,,,,,,NO,,,,,,the Drive. Not the engine.
Then gauges and then engine. At last a prop to fit the engine,,,,,,,,,meanwile youre wife/girlfriend dumpt you ,,,,,,,,but since boat is in superdooper condition ,,,,,,,,not a problem chicks love that ! LOL

What boat is it ? ,,,looks like a welcraft ?,,,,,,,,,,,or chriscraft scorpion?
Like 26 feet or so ?

By the way if you need parts ,,,,PM me i got everything, well almost.
And always need $$$$$ ,because ,,,,well ,,,,i have a boat.

Scott.:ernaehrung004:

The cone is held on with some very tough epoxy. I've seen lowers that hit submerged hazards and were destroued, but the cones stayed on. The bondo job on the other hand...

Looking at the lower, it appears there's some crusty areas under the paint. And god only knows what that flat black paint is- maybe something left over from touching up the barbeque grille? Anyway, body filler isn't waterproof- not close. Submerged it's like a sponge. Water will penetrate just about everything so if it was left in the water much at all, the filler was doomed. West makes a filler that's much better. maybe PM glassdave for the number- it escapes me at the moment.

Okay, too much advise, let's send this over to uncensored and put some real cones in it :D Chris is on the money, fill and fair it with West system epoxy. Then paint a cool color like silver, everyone will think you have an XR.

That skeg would be scary at 55mph, not much in the water to steer with

I believe it was Bob Nordskog's cig 39, named CAM... it had detachable skegs. You could pull the pins and they'd drop out while running. I always wondered how it steered though.

I look at skegs and props the same as I do tires on my vehicles. I want to run the best. I would look for a used, undamaged lower to replace that one with. You only need the casing if you can find one. Otherwise, I'd buy a new casing. If you like the boat and are going to keep it then it is money well spent IMO.

Thats what happens when you "hone your cone" too much

I had a cone pop on my drive over winter. The void between the cone and drive had water in it and when the water froze it pushed the the cone loose. I had it tacked on filled the void with fiberglass resin, and used duraglass, so far so good.

Hey - Thanks for all the info - This is only a minor set back - Clean it paint it and fix it over the winter - still some good lake time left in Oklahoma - chao - chef26

I had the same problem on mine, just sand it as much as you can put some good epoxy and sand it some more till everything is straight and smooth then paint it satin or silver. Finish the season and put a new lower over the winter, if you look close you can see where the skeg was welded on.:drink:
Scott

There are stress cracks on both sides and top to bottom of the cone which means your cone needs to come off and get reattached. It is loose. Start over or you will fight this every few months. There is no way for the bondo to come off (short of a hitting bottom) if the cone was not moving and causing cracks.