questions about procharging my boat
 

thinking about procharging my boat it has a 502 mpi 1998 model will it be a bad idea or will it hurt the engine?

procharging a stock 502mpi engine
 

The motor is all stock and would like to procharge it. Would like someone that has had some experience with the procharger and if the 502 mpi needs any internal engine parts or can this just be a bolted on system. Thank you very much for your help.

How many hours on the motor? I had an HP500 with a vortech supercharger at 5psi and i lost a rod bearing at about 200 hours.

Depends on how many hours you have and condition of gaskets,rings,brgs etc.If your buying a m-1 then you'll probably be OK but there is no guarantees. If your buying a m-3 and aw504 innercooler (which will allow you to run more boost in future then I would say pull heads,inconel valves,composite head gaskets etc plus OTHER upgrades-drive,oil cooler,hyd steering etc,Smitty

Have a 496ho and put on 240 hours(had 300 total) on my motor with the pro charger without a problem. If you drive it responsibly you wil be fine

How many hours on the engine???? You should make sure its 100% healthy first with a leakdown test. also you for sure replace the stock head gaskets with cometics.

I did it with good success. If you have a smaller boat that you don't need to run at higher RPM you can expect good results because boost does not even come in until higher RPM's. Most of my engine hours were cruising and not even under boost. If you have a bigger boat that really lugs the motor/s you might want to think twice.

procharging boat
 

my boat is a 27 foot virage with 2 step hull it has a bravo three out drive and the motor has about 200 hours on it. it seems to run perfect and is running about 65mph now on gps all day long. do you think i can get close to 80mph out of it.

procharging my boat
 

The boat planes easy and is on plane at about 16mph. do you think i have to many hours on the motor? I do have a brand new set of afr heads for a a 540 stroker motor should i put these heads on the 502 or bad idea? with procharger. or just use the stock heads?

I personally would be looking at a Whipple system instead but the I can tell you from having had a Procharger on a 502 on my old boat, they do make some HP.

that aside, you are very unlikely to get to the 80 mph mark because that Bravo 3 drive is going to severley limit you in several ways, prop selection and hydronamics. If you supercharge you should definitely consider installing a standard Bravo or better yet XR.

I would suggest looking into the Whipple charger system, Dustin Whipple is on here all the time helping boaters out and I can't remember an unhappy customer. We put Prochargers on many boats and had MIXED results.

Whipple will reprogram your ecu.

Oh and trust me "Bolt On" is not as easy as it sounds.

WILL:ernaehrung004:

procharging
 

I want to thank all you guy for the help im kinda new to the supercharger always wanted one and thought i might give it a try just wanted to here the feed back thanks again. I may have more question along the way.

Put one of those SEI B1 lowers on for $900 bucks and get rid of the B3. Then go to the tech section and pull up ALL of the threads on prochargers. You will learn a lot of what needs to be done. When it's good it's awesome but if you skimp on anything it will bite your ASS!

procharger
 

ok cool i will do that thank you very much.

I have a 2000 502 mag and have a Vortech supercharger system on it. Idles, starts and runs perfect for over 100hrs now. Lost a stock head gasket at about 25hrs. Pulled the heads and installed new springs, better valves and a valve job. Been going strong ever since. Stock springs were a bit weak and the stock head gaskets are suspect anyways. Vortech claims about 650 hp.

Swan,
I have done many, many Prochargers. They are really good systems if you keep a few things in mind.
- I would not attempt it yourself unless you are very mechanically inclined. If you do it yourself, pull the motor. You'll be glad you did.
-Change the head gaskets, valves and springs if you want to add more than 3 psi boost.
-Reprogram the ecm. I know that Procharger says you don't need to. Trust me, you do. It will not idle worth a damn and will foul plugs.
-Check and/or replace your fuel tank pickup and get rid of the anti siphon valve if it has one. Most failures are do to insufficient fuel supply.
-Add a few gauges. You need boost, fuel pressure, oil temp, in addition to the standard gauges.
-Get rid of the Bravo 3. They don't take much hp and have very limited prop selection. You may pick up close to 5 mph with a B1 lower and prop. With that and the Procharger, you should see 80.
-Have a reputable shop do the install if you don't do it yourself. This can be the best addition to your boat or the biggest, most exspensive disaster.
Personally, I prefer a Whipple. They do cost more money, but are far superior. The above still holds true for the Whipple.
Give me a shout if you have any questions. I'll be glad to answer them. I can also a dealer for Procharger and Whipple and can do the install if your interested. Good luck in whatever you choose to do.
Eddie

nice tread...

Good advice plus buy FULL hyd steering if you don't have it already and a bigger oil cooler if you plan on running it hard for more than 15 seconds at a time,Smitty

As far as the AFR heads,as long as they have the good AFR/inconel valves in them I would bolt them on too,I love mine. If you go the procharger route I have a good source for having the stock throttle body bored out,Smitty

I had a Procharger on my 1997 502 Mag MPI. It worked great. EVERYTHING these guys are telling you is true.

Like articfriends says, go with the M-3. It leaves more options later down the road.

Here is a picture of my motor after Eddie here got ahold of it! I will try to get some pics of the stock install.

Also IF you buy a procharger new pay the extra for the aw504 innercooler vs the aw324,it does several things,it allows you the option of running more boost on same octane or running less octane (like 89) with low boost. Another option on m-3 if you go that route is a 12 rib drive vs 8,I consider it mandatory on the m-3 , I payed triple to upgrade mine later over what it would have been as a option,Smitty

procharging my boat
 

This is the best information that i have heard. The boat now has 210hrs on it is this to many hours for the procharger? It has been perfectly serviced and maintained. Thanks for the info. Im going to try and get some pics of the boat on here soon to take a look at.

That's not to many hours. Do a leak down test (not a compression test) to determine the overall condition of the engine. If you have some cylinders that do not leak down very good, try to determine where they are leaking. If the heads are leaking, that's not a big deal since you should pull the heads to change the gaskets, springs etc. I consider this a must if you want to make more than an extra 50-75 hp. Do a valve job when the heads are off if they are leaking. You should also really consider some better valves in the heads while they are off. If the cylinders are not leaking past the rings, go with it like it is. That engine cold should leak less than 15% if it is in good shape. Give me a shout if you have any questions.
Eddie

That sure is a purdy engine. Who built that work of art???:drink:

humm mine dont lug at all and i have a 3900 nortech super V with #6's with 510's and m4 sc prochargers.. im on plane in less than 10 sec with the tabs up 1.50 gears and 17.5 35 mercs...its on prochargers site

http://www.procharger.com/M_profiles_modified.shtml

I bought my boat with prochargers on it. The previous owner had no idea how to take care of anything let alone the engines. check out the inside of the intercooler after it failed from him using it in salt water and not flushing properly. IMO the amount of $$$ and work it takes to procharge an engine I would pull them and build some good normally asperated engines. Build a solid rotating assembly and valve trane then you really have the option to supercharge your engine later. My 2 cents. :ernaehrung004:

check out Cathouseperformancemarine.com they built my motor with a procharger and its a great motor. You should definetly change the valves, upgrade the exhaust, and upgrade your fuel system.

upgrades to my boat
 

Was wondering about also would and exstention box and a 2 inch shorty be a good idea or is the exstention box not needed would like some opinions on this set up also please thank you?

I have experience with having a procharger,stellings ext box and now a -2" shorty on my boat,under NO circumstances would I reccomend doing any of the 2 or3 things at the same time unless there is another hull identical to yours that has done it successfully that you are patterning your boat after. Lets say you did several of these mods at first and your boat went 15 mph faster,you would not know if it was going slower then it should or what gave you the speed. Do the mods one at a time,My boat when it had 945 hp ran 92.8 running light (a gain of about 30 mph over stock),I added a exstension box and it slowed down to 86 mph and handled terrible ,a LOSS of 6.8 mph. I took the box off and got my speed back. I would build the power first,add the exstension box if your budget allows then add the shorty. If you lose handling or speed at one point you will know why,other wise you will be chasing your tail,Smitty

Nice job. I have been putting gas in it and enjoying it for many hours. I am partial to it because it is under my hatch, but I have yet to see a prettier procharger/mag combo. I spent a little time polishing it last weekend just because it was there.:ernaehrung004:

Oh yeah, you guys need to listen to articfriends comment about not doing too much at once. I had a friend throw a whole bunch of mods at his boat all at once. Well it did not work out as planned and now he is having a hell of a time sorting it out.

recomendations on drive work
 

Thanks again for the help. I was told i would gain some top end speed just by adding the 2in shorty without the exstention box what is your opionion on this? Is it going to be hard to plane out?

Depends on alot of things you haven't told us about yet,a shorty will not make a stock boat suddenly go faster neccesarily unless your prop center line is super deep. Typically boats that go under 75-85 mph lose speed with nose cones,a shorty has one built in so any gain from less drive in the water may be offset by extra drag from the extra surface area. Single engine boats need bow lift typically to run fast,you lose this with a shortie unless you invest in some tweaked props. If you plan on modifying the motor no use spending a bunch on a 5 blade or custom prop just to shelf it when you make more power.
I just put a shorty on my boat,it got rid of eerie stern lift that I had over 80-90 mph but it no longer carrys the bow well and there was no speed increase. Now I'm going to try a prop with extra cup,try my 1" spacer and ballast my boat (one thing at a time),you need to be commited to making your boat go faster to make these mods work sometimes. Add the power first to get your big speed increase,no use "tuning or tweaking" your set-up a couple mph faster then you used to be (if your lucky)just to start over again once you gain substantial speed from extra power,Smitty

procharging
 

Thank you i understand what you are talking about. I think that i may go with the procharger first. I checked into the wipple and i feel like its alittle out of my price range at this time. I hope that im making the right move. I live the fort worh texas and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place in texas that i may have do the work.