So the two long vertical tubes I saw on the drives on the 42 Fountain at Cleveland were the blow off vents? They sat directly above the props and just looked like to tubes that went vertical and would stick out the water. The sales guy said they were to venitlate the props. But he made it sound like they provided air to the props so that the motors could get them rev'd up.

[QUOTE=4mulafastech;2831045]The reason is if the drives are tucked 'too' far at speed in a hard turn, it is more likely to spin-out/roll a twin stepped hull due to the added stern lift. I never have my drives tucked all the way in when turning (rule #1 of driving a stepped hull). QUOTE]

The drives should not be trimmed below level when turning at speed...period.

like on reply#32 the bravo drives come with a spacer,the only difference is the location of the spaces,front or behind the ram bolt, on bravo 1 the spacer is located in front and on bravo 3 the spacer is behind,mine where reversed,wont know if thats my problem until I go out again.

can you think of a reason why your friends were reversed?

[QUOTE=omerta one;2831857]great info thanks!

how do you find the neutral position on the outdrives on a boat?
do you start by leveling the boat trailer and then level the outdrive cavitation plate??

Level the drive with the bottom of the boat and mark your trim indicator with a piece of colored tape.

Just so I do this right,
the boat has a pad,do I take a long 2x4 or level and have 3 to 4 feet against the pad and level that to the cavitation plate on the outdrives?

and on turns never trim lower then that neutral position??

No, I wasn't clear. The spacers were between the upper and lower housings, to put the prop in deeper. I think they were only 1" spacers. He never had any blowing out like you are experincing, so I'd have to assume the 1" spacers did the trick.

Long 2x4, forget the pad, just level with the longest portion of the hull before the pad.

Do not trim below that when turning at speed.

Yes, agreed. Thanks for clarifying.

That's what he meant by "ventilate". Race boats have been using them for years.

update
Ok I switched the trim limit blocks to the front of the trim cylinder bolt as it should be on a Bravo 1 and took the boat out for a ride,much better,
all I have to do is accelarate to 3200 rpm and planes out pretty good,

Thanks for all the help!:ernaehrung004:

Boatnt,
Probably won't tell ya anything you don't know but....

Last year I bought a '02 340 PQ with 496HO's and 28 B-1's twin step. I was having quite a learning curve coming from a single 330 Bravo with a 23P.

Two things that helped me:
Drives down deep and full tabs. As she starts to nose back down and come on plane, I trim the drives and lift the tabs.Feels like something kicking it in the azz.
Secondly, I just raise the rpm's to about 1200-1500 for 10-20 seconds to get the speed up a bit while the hull is still in the water, Before I really try to get it on plane. But Yeah, If trying to get it on plane over 3500 RPM she'll blow out.

Just by getting the hull speed up a bit before take off makes the tabs full down less required

BTW Beautiful boat and congratulations!! If ya make it to Northern Lake Mich give us Charlevoix / Boyne guys a buzz.

great,Thanks for the info

good deal i,m glad I said some thing I almost did not write it.but I had a feeling I should.

Hey,Thanks again you saved me alot of time and agravation.

Mine is easy getting on plane, roll up to 1500 then 2800 to 3000 it pops up.I dont even need the tabs but they do make it faster.30 p bravo 4bld,1.30 gear.It will blow out if try,but thats pushing it hard.

strip how much power do you have. I just bought a new to me 388 and when i test drove it with joe and john it did cavitate as the boat came on to plane joe showed me how to just back out then get back into it was told that the motors are around 700 each and turning 34 pitch 4's as i'm coming out of a 25 baja that never had this happing Just wondering if this is natural or maybe i need to do some propping

Extend your cavation plates 4 or 5 inches, I hade the same problem. I have a 35 Nordic that was fine with stock 500efi’s I put prochargers on and had the same problem. I had a set made and welded on.

Hp is 868 at 6000,3500 and up TQ was 850+. It will almost get into boost getting on plane,Hey congrats on the Hustler, you'll have fun with it this summer:drink:30's turn 6000.I have run a set of 32's lost around 400rpm but still ran 102.

Whats your max rpm with the 34's?
I assume you have a 1.50 stock gear ratio and bravo one props?

When mine was stock it got up pretty easy,the bigger props and gear ratio loads it harder,but it still feels like its not straining much. If I'm ruining along at 3000ish and nail it, it will blow the props out. Iv driven my Buddy's and ridden in his 36 outlaw, it likes about 3600 to get on plane,when he drives it he"s over 4000.Another Buddy's 38 ts cig was the same,but it has labed props,I can be behind them it sounds like there throttling hard to get on plane.I like taking it easy getting on plane,its not like your racing,its allot less stress on the gears.This is just one/my opinion:ernaehrung004:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-build-up.html

Heres my cav plate, dont know if its bigger or smaller than stock bravo one.