Removing boat from trailer in driveway, pics...
 

Well, I needed to do some fiberglass work, and needed to get to some areas down low on the hull, and wanted to see what was beneath the bunks. So decided to pull the trailer...

All in all, was pretty easy for my first ever attempt. Took about 30 minutes.

First I started by lowering the front of the trailer as far as possible and blocked the stern. Then slowly raised the front back up, which pulled the rear off the trailer. After I got it to a level I was happy with, we started jacking up in the center, and rolling the trailer out one cross beam at a time.

Should be back on in a week or so. Really was not as hard as I thought it would be.

Enjoy!

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9387/81319740.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7817/76156995.jpg
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/5100/42735555.jpg
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/818/14378547.jpg
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/2274/50351503.jpg

I don't know if I'm overly cautious or what, but I wouldn't be caught doing work on that hull if it required me to lay under it. Looks dangerous, but to each his own. I like to use cinder blocks... 2 @ time for each stack with each stack alternated = then II on top of each other with the top being a single cinder block with 2x4 wood contacting the hull. Three stacks with 'hurricane' stands to prevent the boat from being blown or rocked off the 3-point rig.

I have 6 points of contact on this setup. Like I said, I have never done this before, I definitely didnt want to use a hollow block, so I used pavers (I am a landscaper, had a couple thousand laying around) which are solid, with a 8000lbs crush rating, and they are through bolted holding all of them together tightly.

I didnt have and tips or tricks to go off of, sorta just did this one on my own. Next time I will have to see what everyone else says is a good idea. Hopefully is stays afloat on the stands for a week.

I would chain those 2 front stands together so there is little chance of them pulling away from the hull. Good luck with your project!

Thats a very good idea... I think i will do that.. :ernaehrung004:

Yup you NEED to chain them together. The only real concern that I would have is when you back the trailer in be very carefull that you do not push on the boat at all or those back supports could just topple over because they are so narrow.

I would move your real stands that you have from the front of the boat to the back when you go to put the trailer under. It looks like you have bennetts but if those are K-Planes you can put the real boat stands under the trim tabs and chain them together for support. If they are Bennets I do not think it will work.

i agree
 

next time use cynder blocks. yes the hollow ones but up on end very strong. those pavers have to make that thing one wobbley mofo lol i use blocks, 2x6's 8ft long and more block really straddle that rear so it doesnt move around

I have the majority of the weight on the keel. You can push on the very front of the bow, or the rear of the swim platform and the boat doesn't move at all. I used the tallpiles to get the boat off the trailer, but I didnt want to use that many blocks as the main support, so its there to give it stability where as the 3 block setup, and the auto jack stand are holding the boat off the ground, then I have the stands to prevent roll.

I will use the cinder blocks next time!

AudioFn - how do you tell? They say InstaTrim on them.

Also, should I move the boat/side stands back any right now. Do I have the too far forward to prevent anything?

Thanks everybody.

keel
 

what do you have ontop of that jackstand towards the front on the keel??

this has to be a joke?!? are you serious using pavers to block your boat??? come on april fools...

Definitely chain them together.

The Instatims are a Bennet-esque trim tab. Not k-planes.

Your jackstands are a little far forward, there isn't much weight up in the bow and as long as nobody is going to be going into the boat while its on the stands (which they shouldn't) I would move them back to just slightly in front of the helm area.

No joke. Pavers have a higher pressure rating per square inch than cinder blocks do. What would make these solid pavers crack or crumble and a hollow cinder block not?

Ok I will move them back tonight when I get home... And no one will be in the boat.

This is way scary!Please do not work under that boat with the current set-up.
Notice the adjustable stands in front.Built with a wide base.
Use cinder blocks,4x4's,or even pavers,but start with a wide base at the ground and work your way up like a pyramid.

Should I add more support under the keel? How can I go about changing it now?

I think for a driveway job you did great. As long as all the weight is on the keel the stands and blocks should only be used to balance the vessel.

That is exactly how it is setup. On the last step before completely pulling the trailer, I made the stern float a little, then adjusted the forward most keel stand to put some pressure on the stern blocks for balance. 75% of the weight I would say is on the keel, with the other being shared by the stern blocks probably 20%, and front boat stands probably about 5%

[QUOTE=SmurfOnAGixxer;2859208]Should I add more support under the keel? How can I go about changing it now?[/QUOTE

Keel support looks fine.I think you need more rigid supports under the aft corners.

The issue with the pavers isn't that they are unable to support the load, it is that you have a single stack. Would be relatively easy to kick the middle of the stack out and then down goes your boat. I.E. that kids game, Jenga I think it is?

I am adding a second set of boat jacks tonight. So even if the aft blocks kicked out, with the weight on the keel, and 2 stands per side prevent the boat from rolling?

Thanks for the advice everyone, I will definitely set everything up a little better next time with the input I have now... Hopefully no hurricanes blow through Detroit in the next week... lol

I would have to say your original setup is far superior to some of the stuff Ive seen in marinas that sat all winter.

Snap some pictures this fall when you are walking through a random marina, this board will have a field day!:drink:

Portable Boat Lift
 

If you're like me you have tried any number of ways to separate your boat from your trailer to service the trailer or the boat hull. I have used a product by Portable Boat Lift that allows one person to safely separate their boat from their trailer in minutes, anywhere. They can be found at link below www.portableboatlift.comhttp://www.portableboatlift.net/imag..._spze_ewib.jpg

that is pretty neat but it says its made for boats 25ft or less...Is this your company?

Instatrim is made by Boat Levelers. You'll just rip the self tapping mounting screws out of the hull if you try to chain anything to them, or bend the SS plates and break the rams. Leave them up and alone. Yeah, those forwards stands are doing nothing w/o a chain from 1 to the other, then I can see the chain wanting to still slide forward. I'd move them towards the back where they will be pushing straight down as much as possible. They are mostly for keeping the boat balanced on your keel blocks, not support. But they gotta be secure.

I wouldn't recommend cinder blocks...very weak and prone to breakage. If you wish to go with something like that, use concrete blocks. A little more expensive but a lot stronger. Wood works best.

DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS! they will fail easily under load, the pavers are a better option but not ideal, wood or purpose built stands are the best option. It is against OHSA regulations to use cinder blocks under scaffold legs, many people have been injured relying on them.

I don't know where you guys are buying your cinder blocks but the ones around here I wouldn't prop up a dinghy. I picked a couple up out of the lumber yard a while back and the side crumbled in my hand when i grabbed it. Had another 2 fall apart in the back of the truck on the way to the job just from the vibration.

You guys see that this thread is 4 1/2 years old right??? Lol

Is it still on blocks...Lmao

I would use 8x8 wood posts cut in 2' lengths instead of blocks or pavers...

I used to support 70,000lb machines with wood blocking when I had to work on them!