SmurfOnABoat

Well, I needed to do some fiberglass work, and needed to get to some areas down low on the hull, and wanted to see what was beneath the bunks. So decided to pull the trailer...

All in all, was pretty easy for my first ever attempt. Took about 30 minutes.

First I started by lowering the front of the trailer as far as possible and blocked the stern. Then slowly raised the front back up, which pulled the rear off the trailer. After I got it to a level I was happy with, we started jacking up in the center, and rolling the trailer out one cross beam at a time.

Should be back on in a week or so. Really was not as hard as I thought it would be.

Enjoy!

Jigsaw89

I don't know if I'm overly cautious or what, but I wouldn't be caught doing work on that hull if it required me to lay under it. Looks dangerous, but to each his own. I like to use cinder blocks... 2 @ time for each stack with each stack alternated = then II on top of each other with the top being a single cinder block with 2x4 wood contacting the hull. Three stacks with 'hurricane' stands to prevent the boat from being blown or rocked off the 3-point rig.

SmurfOnABoat

I have 6 points of contact on this setup. Like I said, I have never done this before, I definitely didnt want to use a hollow block, so I used pavers (I am a landscaper, had a couple thousand laying around) which are solid, with a 8000lbs crush rating, and they are through bolted holding all of them together tightly.

I didnt have and tips or tricks to go off of, sorta just did this one on my own. Next time I will have to see what everyone else says is a good idea. Hopefully is stays afloat on the stands for a week.

Jigsaw89

I would chain those 2 front stands together so there is little chance of them pulling away from the hull. Good luck with your project!

SmurfOnABoat

Thats a very good idea... I think i will do that..

Audiofn

Yup you NEED to chain them together. The only real concern that I would have is when you back the trailer in be very carefull that you do not push on the boat at all or those back supports could just topple over because they are so narrow.

Audiofn

I would move your real stands that you have from the front of the boat to the back when you go to put the trailer under. It looks like you have bennetts but if those are K-Planes you can put the real boat stands under the trim tabs and chain them together for support. If they are Bennets I do not think it will work.

21eagle

iTrader: (1)

next time use cynder blocks. yes the hollow ones but up on end very strong. those pavers have to make that thing one wobbley mofo lol i use blocks, 2x6's 8ft long and more block really straddle that rear so it doesnt move around

SmurfOnABoat

I have the majority of the weight on the keel. You can push on the very front of the bow, or the rear of the swim platform and the boat doesn't move at all. I used the tallpiles to get the boat off the trailer, but I didnt want to use that many blocks as the main support, so its there to give it stability where as the 3 block setup, and the auto jack stand are holding the boat off the ground, then I have the stands to prevent roll.

I will use the cinder blocks next time!

AudioFn - how do you tell? They say InstaTrim on them.

Also, should I move the boat/side stands back any right now. Do I have the too far forward to prevent anything?

Thanks everybody.

21eagle

iTrader: (1)

what do you have ontop of that jackstand towards the front on the keel??