Break-in oil for rebuilt motor
 

HP500 carb stock rebuild. Anybody have problem with rings seating using 15w 50 silver cap Mobile 1? Or am I better off breaking in motors with something else and then start using mobil 1?

Thanks, Morry

dont use synthetic, it will not break in. Save your money

20W 50 VALVOLINE racing VR1 !!!!!!!!!!! is good !

valvoline 50w racing has one of the highest zinc contents. straight weight has few additives. i always do a leak-down prior and post break-in.

In the last X # of years this thread has gone round and round and round and round and round and... Some say that synthetic is too slippery to use as break-in oil. Others give some snake-oil concept of using something like canola oil and boiled linseed oil with crisco.

Seriously...you will be fine with any name brand oil as long as it is the correct viscosity and it's changed frequently. More importantly is probably which filter to use. Do a search and you'll find lots of great information.

For questions on oil specifics, contact Hydrocruiser...he's the man with the scientific knowledge!

*FYI--don't use the above-mentioned trick. Chances are if you use that combination in the engine as well as the bottom of your boat you'll gain 4-7mph.

You should never use a synthetic to break in anything. Film strengths are too high, therefore not allowing components to seat properly.

Just use a petroleum based oil for minimum duration. i.e. 10 hours. Then switch to a synthetic.

I just rebuilt a pair of 575 SCi's this winter. As per the advise of a well known peson here on OSO, I used Joe Gibbs break in oil. Looks like quality oil.

http://www.saferacer.com/joe-gibbs-r...?productid=425

never use synthetic on break-in. Us a conventional oil and add some crane break-in lube to it. Also, whichever company you bought your rings from, ask what they recommend.

At Raylar Engine we like to use Shell Rotella 15-40W for breakins, got a great zinc and additive ashless wear package and after breakin you can switch to synthetics. I also like the gallon bottles, pouring 10 quarts from quart bottles just sucks!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Ray , how long do you leave the Rotella in for ? how many hours ? thanks Tim

My engine builder suggested the same thing - Shell Rotella - changed at 10hrs - been running like a champ ever since.

We DID break the cams in at 1600 RPM for 40 minutes as well.....

Thats the same as I was told on the Rotella,claims to have the highest zink level.

The last 3 rebuilds I have used the cheap Napa straight 40 for break in, its only in there maybe about 1 hour, 5 dyno pulls or until I put a good load on it to seat the rings.Rob:drink:

What about break in on a NEW long block? Rotella still OK? What about a straight HD40?

I would use the Rotella and change it and the filter between 5 and 10 hours. Also carefully cut open the filter that is removed and spread the pleated media inside and look for debris, especially iron, steel and aluminum particles. If there is a lot, check the oil filter again within a couple of hours of use and make sure the debris stops.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Thanks for the responses.

Morry