SLINGSHOT

POWDERCOAT IT CLEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wildfire

Baja Daze is right. It isn't the SST in the prop, it is the remnants of the brillo pad. Get rid of that first.

Also, stainless is really stain-less, not stain-proof steel. It will oxidize under the right circumstances. I used to know what those were, but I forgot. (I have a degree in Metallurgy - but don't actively engineer anything, still have the books though)

NASTY HABIT

anything with iron in it such as a brillo or a wire brush or gringing wheel ect.... will as said before bond to the stainless and cause surface rust..... a good scothcbrite pad should knock it off before you begin the joy of polishing it....(your prop) as for clearing the dash panel.. i would just keep it as it is.... hit it everynow and then with polish if needed.....

I love stainless.....

cougarman

Mark Linger,

Did you use a steel wool pad or a cloth
version of scotch brite?

Reason I ask is marine grade stainless is usally
316 L. L is for low carbon for welding purposes.

Anyway Stainless usally rust for two reasons.
1) really cheap grade of stainless.
2) Elements in the air.

If you used a steel wool pad the rust is from the elements in the pad. The stainless it self is not rusting.

Also with todays newer cars, especially a white car. You might notice little specs of rust in your paint. But they wax out and or buff out.
That rust is from todays metallic brake dust.
As you use your brakes it's air born and adhears to your paint.

Your car isn't rusting though.

I hope I was of some help.

Good Luck
Cougarman

boot

Hey cougarman,thanks for that story on the brakes ! My girlfriend has a new Honda Accord and it has little yellow and brown spots on it near the back . She was freakin out . Now I can tell her a good reason for it . THanks !

As for the stainless , most of above is right on . Also if stainless is not pollished it will rust in the scratches . If it is high pollished and not scratched it will not not . I did the entire bed of my pro street pickup in high pollished stainless . Never dulled or rusted in the 6 years I had it . I wouldn't coat it with anything . Worst case , if it gets funny looking in a couple years , take the gauges out and pollish it again ! Cool idea for dash ,I was going to do that but chickened out and did plexiglass .

Here is a picture of my stainless bed . Hard to tell but the hole floor and back end is stainless . Even when I bent it to form the roll pan it didn't sratch or rust on the bend . it was perfect !

Steve 1

Wildfire Stainless steel remains stainless, or does not rust, because of the interaction between its alloying elements and the environment. Stainless steel contains iron, chromium, manganese, silicon, carbon and, in many cases, significant amounts of nickel and molybdenum. These elements react with oxygen from water and air to form a very thin, stable film that consists of such corrosion products as metal oxides and hydroxides. Chromium plays a dominant role in reacting with oxygen to form this corrosion product film. In fact, all stainless steels by definition contain at least 10 percent chromium.
The presence of the stable film prevents additional corrosion by acting as a barrier that limits oxygen and water access to the underlying metal surface. Because the film forms so readily and tightly, even only a few atomic layers reduce the rate of corrosion to very low levels. The fact that the film is much thinner than the wavelength of light makes it difficult to see without the aid of modern instruments. Thus, although the steel is corroded on the atomic level, it appears stainless. Common inexpensive steel, in contrast, reacts with oxygen from water to form a relatively unstable iron oxide/hydroxide film that continues to grow with time and exposure to water and air. As such, this film, otherwise known as rust, achieves sufficient thickness to make it easily observable soon after exposure to water and air.
In summary, stainless steel does not rust because it is sufficiently reactive to protect itself from further attack by forming a passive corrosion product layer. (Other important metals such as titanium and aluminum also rely on passive film formation for their corrosion resistance.)Now stress cracking caused by the chlorides in brackish water is another study
Also Props are of 17-4 PH which is Magnetic by the way.

Wildfire

At least I got the oxidation part somewhat right. LOL!

Actually, my senior design project was to work with an SST prop manufacturer to help them eliminate fatigue cracks originating at the edge of the blades. Like I said, I have the books, but I honestly have forgotten a lot of the basics. Now, if you care to talk about tungsten carbide and cobalt, I'm your man.

Steve1, obviously you are well versed in SST and that is not something you pick up on the street. In which industry do you work? The Missus and I have been thinking of relo'ing to FL. It just seems that there isn't a whole lot of manufacturing/engineering work available.

Steve 1

Wildfire LOL you Made me have to work also, The Scary thing is that as Science digs deeper some of the Old rules we knew change, Like everything is in a Flux , We all need a reeducation every 6 Months at the present rate..

Best Regards

Wildfire

I like my metallurgy firmly based in the 1200's. Hell, I'm still trying to turn lead into gold. At least that is what my boat buying habits seem like.

Anyway, how's the market down there for those of us that have at least seen a BOF?

Steve 1

Wildfire there is a huge amount of work available down here. If you bring your boat plan on using it most of the year also. A while back I was going into the Hardware (Marine) Business, after the cold war the price of Titanium fell to a couple dollars a pound Guess with all the Soviet subs getting cut up, I was going to Market Titanium Boat hardware. Saw some at the Genoa Boat show on a Yacht, really cool stuff.Maybe after the $hit storm is over .I will Try again.

Best Regards