rob6773

I have a bravo I w/a 454 and lightning headers, is anti-freeze or draining better? We had used both and had bad results-

1) My dad draining forgot the cooler once (It is no longer under the engine and easy to get to now)

2) Two gallons of anti-freeze did not seem like enough when I opened it up the spring and found it looking closer to straight water. (I have a Perco kit now installed and I would use 4 gallons) Is there any adantage in preventing header rust? I ran salt away.

Also should I change the oil? I am worried about moisture ruining good oil before spring. The oil was changed in August and has about 12 hours on it.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

Definitely anti freeze, you need the corrosion protection. Its not good to just drain and leave them. I usually drain everything then take the thermostat housing off and fill it that way. I also take all the lines off the housing and back fill that way as well. Also hose everything down with WD40 in the entire compartment. I change all fluids in the spring, drives/engines/blowers.

rob6773

I have no thermostat, that should help some.

rob6773

Does the RV (non-toxic) stuff offer any corrosion protection?

PJDiesel

Last I heard.... NO. But I have a hard time understanding why it wouldn't.

Mercury Marine says it's fine to use. Some people insist on using regular glycol antifreeze.

http://www.mercurymarine.com/service...terization.php

sleek1

When you guys spray your whole engine down with WD-40, do you wash it off before you run it? Or does the WD simply evaporate over time?

Hauling Hustler

Anti-freeze for sure. I am still surprised at how many people winterize themselves. Having a certified/insured marine mechanic is the cheapest insurance policy you can buy. Depending on shop rates cost is about 125-175 per motor. Alot cheaper than fixing something in the spring if you do not do it right yourself. If you take it to a shop and there is an issue in the spring due to freeze up THEY are responsible to fix it on there dime;not yours. Just my 2 cents.

baja bailey

I always had mine anti freezed, the shop I used charged $15 more than if they just drained it. One time when they were closed for a while I tried to get another dealership to do it and they said no would not anti freeze it even if I was willing to pay extra I always felt it was better to use anti freeze..

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Yes. The stuff I bought from Menards says corrosion protecting right on the bottle.

fountain44

Here is my process for winterizing a motor.

1. Add fuel stabilizer to the tank.

2. start the engine up let it run for a while. (allows stabilzer to mix and move water around in the engine.

3. Turn off the motor, disconnect water.

4. This process can go in any order, but I find it easy for me. Drain headers first. (remove the water hoses at the bottom of the headers.) next I drain the block on both sides, followed by the oil cooler or any other coolers/heat exchangers.

4a. When draining the block be sure to stick a metal or something ridged in the drain holes to make sure there are no deposits hold water in the block. same goes for the headers and coolers.

5. Reconnect all hoses and fittings.

6. Now your ready to winterize. Normally what I do depending on the engine and headers. But normally I use about 5 gallons of anti freeze or less. Pour it into a bucket ( I have a 5 gal bucket with a thru-hull fitting going into a hose to my ear muffs.

7. with all that connected have someone at the stern as soon as you crank the engine they should lift the bucket up to the swim platform.

8. While the engine is sucking the anti-freeze be ready with your fogging oil when there is about a half gallon left start spraying your fogging oil it should kill the engine if not choke it or turn it off quick. There you have it. But like hauling hustler said its best to have your local marine shop or dealer do it for you. $175 is better than the thousands it cost to put a new motor in.