winter lay-up
10-14-2009, 07:32 AM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: canton, mi.
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
winter lay-up
Did I do it right?
I have a 454/330 b1.
I ran the motor until it was at 160, shut it down and drained the block, manifolds, and risers. I then mixed 3 gallons of antifreeze with 1.5 gallons of water in a tub. I have an electric pump I hooked muffs to and ran the motor until antifreeze came out the pipes. I put some 2 stroke oil in the fuel filter and when I shut it off the motor was starting to smoke. Now all I need to do is take my batteries out and put the cover on. Such a sad day
I have a 454/330 b1.
I ran the motor until it was at 160, shut it down and drained the block, manifolds, and risers. I then mixed 3 gallons of antifreeze with 1.5 gallons of water in a tub. I have an electric pump I hooked muffs to and ran the motor until antifreeze came out the pipes. I put some 2 stroke oil in the fuel filter and when I shut it off the motor was starting to smoke. Now all I need to do is take my batteries out and put the cover on. Such a sad day
10-14-2009, 09:00 AM
#2
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Our method is the same... sort of.
Run the engine to temp (160)
Shut down and drain engine of water
Run -100 rv/marine antifreeze throught the engine with rabbit ears... no pump needed (we use a 5 gallon tank; gravity fed from the swim platform)
While engine tank is draining... spray fogging oil in the air intake for the last bit of the running cycle...
Shut engine off when the antifreeze tank is empty.
Drain the outdrive gear lube and refill.
Remove batteries...
Run the engine to temp (160)
Shut down and drain engine of water
Run -100 rv/marine antifreeze throught the engine with rabbit ears... no pump needed (we use a 5 gallon tank; gravity fed from the swim platform)
While engine tank is draining... spray fogging oil in the air intake for the last bit of the running cycle...
Shut engine off when the antifreeze tank is empty.
Drain the outdrive gear lube and refill.
Remove batteries...
Last edited by SonicBunny; 10-14-2009 at 09:19 PM.
10-14-2009, 12:28 PM
#3
Gold Member
Gold Member
Might not be a bad idea to change outdrive fluid and make sure there is no chance of water being in there?
Next year get some carb spray and fog it so you don't have to mess with the 2 stroke oil thing....
Next year get some carb spray and fog it so you don't have to mess with the 2 stroke oil thing....
VIP Member
10-14-2009, 08:13 PM
#5
Registered
10-14-2009, 09:29 PM
#6
Registered
Plus 1 more step for all. Drain the antifreez mix too after done. Truth is that short run time does not always allow antifreeze and any left over water in the block to mix properly. I'm anal and even drain my intake at the power steering cooler.
10-14-2009, 09:43 PM
#7
Charter Member
I leave my blocks full of AF so no air is in it. An empty block will rust.
Did you use RV/Marine AF or automotive AF? The RV stuff is on sale at Menards @ $2.34/gal.
The Automotive stuff will get you dirty looks, unless you catch next spring and dispose of properly or save for next winter.
Did you use RV/Marine AF or automotive AF? The RV stuff is on sale at Menards @ $2.34/gal.
The Automotive stuff will get you dirty looks, unless you catch next spring and dispose of properly or save for next winter.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 10-14-2009 at 09:46 PM.
10-15-2009, 05:01 AM
#8
Registered
I just pull the block drains and exhaust drains and the sea strainer hoses. Then replace the plugs and pull all 4 hoses from the thermostat housing, fill them with -50 RV antifreeze until they are full, fill the sea strainer as well, and button her up. Oh yeah...don't forget to stabilize your fuel!
10-15-2009, 05:45 AM
#9
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: canton, mi.
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies.
I used automotive AF; the thought of -50 RV makes me pucker when I saw that it turns to slush. I could not find the blue -100 anywhere around here so I used the green stuff and I will catch it and save it for the next season so I won't have to buy it again...for some time anyway. I left the AF in the engine so the insides of the block would be protected from rust. I have seen fist hand what happens when a block rusts out from the inside. I did stabilize the tank, filled it up and put it in the barn last night, saw some ice this past weekend in a small puddle next to the house.
I used automotive AF; the thought of -50 RV makes me pucker when I saw that it turns to slush. I could not find the blue -100 anywhere around here so I used the green stuff and I will catch it and save it for the next season so I won't have to buy it again...for some time anyway. I left the AF in the engine so the insides of the block would be protected from rust. I have seen fist hand what happens when a block rusts out from the inside. I did stabilize the tank, filled it up and put it in the barn last night, saw some ice this past weekend in a small puddle next to the house.
10-15-2009, 07:48 AM
#10
Registered
I hate putting the boat away but it simple has to be done. It's always a sad day. I drain the raw water side of my engines and suck up the RV stuff. I run fuel stable in the tank on my last run, fog the engines and shut them down. I jack the trailer and put it on blocks and put the batteries on a trickle charger. The last thing I do for winterizing is move the thermostat switch from AC to heat. Then I sit at the bar and stare at my baby till the warm weather returns. Also on the first of every month, I pull the kill switch and crank the engine over for about 5 to10 seconds just to keep things from taking a set.
