seltzer

Thanks, that made me chuckle.

Young Performance

You are correct. The engines as listed on my site are for 91/93 octane, whichever is available. However, they can all be set up to run 89 or even 87 if you wish. My 1200 will still make well over 1000 hp on 87 octane. It will make over 1100 hp on 89 octane. I was able to make over 1300 hp (1326 actually) on 93 octane.
One other thing is that all of my engines make quite a bit more than the published number. For example, the last 925 efi I did made 1028 hp on 93 octane. Obviously, a lower octane will cost some power, but it will not be as far under the published 93 octane number as you would think, since they make so much more than the published hp number.
I think that is a big advantage to using a custom builder. You can have your engine build to run on whatever fuel you want. If I set it up for 87 octane, then it will run on 87 octane. It will still have the same warranty as any other engine I build. Hope this helps clear up some of the confusion. Thanks.
Eddie

dkwestern

Thanks Eddie!! Informative as always!!

Young Performance

My pleasure.

I neglected to mention that I am sure the other builders mentioned can build 87 or 89 octane variations of what they typically offer.
Eddie

Jassman

what would be cool if you could have a dial or switches that say... 87/980hp.. 89/1100.. 91/1200.. 93/1268.. RF/????

a computer would do all the adjusting for the different fuels..

vette131

or maybe that sexy little voice from my GPS saying are you sure you filled up with 93 octane, my knock sensors are tingling!!!

LapseofReason

So if you set your 1200 up to run @ 1000hp on 87 what are the rebuild times for top end then bottom end ? What if any of your motors go about 200-300 hours for the heads then 400-500 hours for the total rebuild. That is the time frame I am looking for I would only be doing 3-5 Poker runs a year and would think only 10% of the time would be above 90% throttle.

Young Performance

Well, I really can't answer that with a definitive answer. All I can do is guess, since I haven't done it before. I am confident that you could go to 250-300 hours. At that point, the top end would absolutely have to be done, along with a new belt for the Jesel belt drive. I have never pushed the bottom end that far (in an engine that large) but I really don't see why it would not go that far. I have a pair now that made just under 1000 hp (972 hp) and they are approaching 300 hrs.(about 280 hrs). They are in excellent health and we are debating what to do....to rebuild or not this winter. I think we may let them go another year. They have had excellent maintenance and the oil filters get cut open on a regular basis to be sure they are clean.
I'm not going to bs you and say that they will definitely last for 500 hours. I honestly can not say for sure. I do think they will be fine judging from past rebuilds. I have done a quite a few in the 250 hr range and they looked excellent. The reality is that once you have the engines out of the boat and you have the heads and valvetrain out, it really isn't that much more to do the bottom end. All of my customers have seen it that way as well. That is why I have never let one go that far. You are only talking about a couple grand to just do the whole thing. In the grand scheme of things it is not that big of a deal. However, I would still love to run one that far. So, when do you want to get started???
Eddie

LapseofReason

I do all my own work till the motors come out so oil is changed every 10-20 hours depending on how it was run and I do comp. and leak down every 50 or so then if it's still good at around 200 hours I change valve springs in the boat. So I dont plan on pulling the motors till around 4-5 hundred hours. Then yes I would do the whole thing. My last motors were fine in that time line but they were only 800-850 hp. Do you replace the valves in your big hp motors and do a full valve job or just springs?

Young Performance

When I do the valvetrain, I do the entire valvetrain.....cam, lifters, pushrods, valves, springs, retainers, locks, and seals. I also do a valve job and just scratch the surface of the heads to remove any indentations made by the head gasket and to be sure it is flat.
In your case, I would just want to check the condition of the springs to see if they lost any pressure. If not, them let them go. If they lost 10 psi of more, then they will need to be changed. We could just do the springs in the boat in that case.
Eddie