jeff1000man

This is about as rigger as I get with my rigging, but I figured I better fess up. I just wanted to see what some of you other guys had come up with in your days of rigging on a budget, or in a bind etc.

I wanted cross overs with no bypass. I didn't want to stick a rubber hose with a plug so I just tapped the bypass tube with 1/4 NPT and stuck in a pipe plug with a bunch of thread seal. Works like a champ and saved a couple hundred bucks.

You have to look twice before you catch it...

jeff1000man

By the way, I didn't seal that intake, and yes I did loom the wire before installing

Planetwarmer

looks fine to me.

Ghostrider

out of sheer curioutsity, why would you not want the bypass?

I honestly don't know, I'm not trying to argue.

If you run CMIs or similar, are they less necessary than if you have Alloy manifolds or risers?

Reason I ask is I'm switching from EMI Thunders to CMI Spilt tubes and I have a bypass currently but if I shouldn't run it or don't need it, I'd like to know.

If I don't need it, I love your solution and I may well use that myself!

Cheers!

jeff1000man

The reason you need the bypass is bcause when you use a thermostat on the cooling water, it shuts down the water going to the exhasut as well. This can be catastrophic for any kind of water cooled exhaust. As a matter of fact, using a header style makes coolling even more important.
If you will notice on this particular set up, there are only 2 hoses coming out of the manifold instead of 4. The bypass allows a necessary amount of cooling water to not flow through the engine and go straight to the exhaust to keep it cool/

If you use this solution, make sure that you don't run a thermostat on your water cooling system or you run a good chance of cooking your exhaust. Also make sure that you find a way to maintain you oil temp.

This thread really was started as more of a picture thread to show some different ways to make things work when you are on a tight budget or timeline while setting up.

In this case, I chose to try and keep the enging temp as low as possible to try and control the detonation if I picked up some bad gas etc..... also keeping my headers as cold as possible because of there proximity to the engine hatch.

I am still maintaining the optimum oil temp using a thermostat on the oil system that is built into the coolers.

Some of the more experienced builders may or may not chime in on reasons to do, or not do what I am doing. Or they may suggest better alternatives. This is just using what you have to work with when you have it and not going down to the supply house and getting different parts.

Airpacker

Great place to screw in a water pressure sender and wire. No one would be any wiser about your budget solution then. They would think you're a genius

ROTAX454

Suggestions? I point you in the direction of Mercury Racing and the most popular and certainly durable marine motor to date. The HP525. Mercury saw fit to have this motor designed and built with a water thermostat and water pump. You have control of your oil temps, why not the water too? You want cold water? Install the lowest thermostat available. Keeping the water temps to the smallest rise and fall tolerance in your motor is best.
http://mercuryracing.com/sterndrives/hp525efi/specs.php

thunderusone

Definately "Rigger Rigged".

Wobble

I agree on the tstat, of course down here the water gets to 90*+ during the summer in most lakes and Galveston bay. So a lot of forced induction motors down here opt to run without the tstat.

I run a crossover and tstat and have done for 8 years. My water temp goes right to 160 year round. I think this is a good option for an aftermarket engine if you want that aftermarket look.

Nothing wrong with the stock configuration either. The pump and factory tstat housing do weigh around thirty pounds and do take power to turn.

Looks, weight and power draw are why I dont run them.

jeff1000man

My water pressure senders screw into the block drains on the bottom of the block.