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Originally Posted by Boomer35
(Post 3290939)
i
i was a little concerned throwing in a valve like that would reduce the diameter of the hose and reduce the amount of water, thus run high temps again... im probably over thinking this, Use a ball valve that is rated 'full' flow'. |
I'd be interested in seeing the directions and how it's hooked up, as well as the parts that make up the system. |
I installed my flush system just after the sea water pump. I don't run the engine just hook up the hose & let the water run for a while. Water runs out of the exhaust & some water runs out of the pickup on the drive. Nice & quiet for the neighbors & seems to work well. No valves to forget to reopen after flushing, just put the cap back on.
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Originally Posted by Boomer35
(Post 3290941)
that is exactly what i was thinking of doing
Also I went up a size to 1.5" with the proper barb fitting of 1.25" for the hose. Just a little larger inside the valve for no worries of decreased water flow :) This allows me to shut off the water for overnighting on the water 'just in case' something would leak :) as well it allows for on the water repairs just as long as its not the hose from the drive to this valve :) I initially installed this for being able to run on the hose in the driveway, thus also allowing winterizing easier. Just when i winterize I open the valve so the antifreeze can go back into the drive! I went off of this system, but built it myself. http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/car...&p=26507&c=309 |
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