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Getting ready to break ground on shop....need opinions.

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Old 01-13-2011, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall View Post
+1 and their is another 10 k...

i would not go open cell,their is no moisture barrier and is not flame retardant, closed cell is the way to go
Just ready to expand my building , everyone says closed cell traps the moisture ?, the insulation is covered by wood.
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Old 01-13-2011, 10:29 AM
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spray foam insulation open cell
Spray foam is the way to go; if the metal short circuits you will get condensation.

Closed cell has a higher R per inch and is stronger; open cell is lightweight and more economical but doesn't like to get wet.

Either is a great improvement over fiberglass batt insulation.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:35 PM
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Just ready to expand my building , everyone says closed cell traps the moisture ?, the insulation is covered by wood.
open cell holds the moisture,,its like a sponge.once the closed cell is sprayed it wont let the moisture penetrate the wood or metal its applied to..mt neighbor does it and he tells me that closed cell is the way to go..
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:29 PM
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I spent $10K in site work.
...NOT including concrete.

Heck, the lights and garage door openers cost $1K.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:26 PM
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Spray foam is the way to go; if the metal short circuits you will get condensation.

Closed cell has a higher R per inch and is stronger; open cell is lightweight and more economical but doesn't like to get wet.

Either is a great improvement over fiberglass batt insulation.
Spray foam is the way to go;

did a bldg a few years back with the spray foam and within 2 years it came down in sheets , and had to have batts installed ...

dont fvck around just have 10 " blown in walls and on cieling and she'll be warm as toast
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:40 PM
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I am considering the heated floors to....the upfront cost looks extremely cheap. Just some real fast math looks like around $500 for all the tubing, but then I guess I need a hot water heater or a always hot system or something. My real question is does this stuff help keep the room a little warmer also? Even if I can't afford the water heater etc I may put in the tubing that way its there and ready when I need it.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:46 PM
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+1 or put down some adhesive tile...looks great, you can make any patten and color combo, put down as much area as you want and it's pretty darn durable. my doors are 12 wide and 10' high but i wish I would of went 12 or 14 tall.
I like that radiant floor heat too, concrete gets cold very quickly.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:55 PM
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I am considering the heated floors to....the upfront cost looks extremely cheap. Just some real fast math looks like around $500 for all the tubing, but then I guess I need a hot water heater or a always hot system or something. My real question is does this stuff help keep the room a little warmer also? Even if I can't afford the water heater etc I may put in the tubing that way its there and ready when I need it.
YES! Put in the pex for sure.
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:01 PM
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plan on a spending a couple Gs for the boiler ,expansion tank,mixing valves... for the house i love it under all the tile floors and house feels warmer with heat under your feet and warm carpets.. for the shop recycle time takes a long when you open a overhead door for a few mins at 15 degrees outside, look for a Lanair used waste oil heater and heat the place with used motor oil,trans fluid,gear lube,diesel fuel, and it'll warm up your size bldg in 10 mins to 70 degrees
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Old 01-14-2011, 02:24 PM
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if anything, go ahead and plumb for the heater and later on down the road, you can add the furnace, etc. to make it operational.

know of a few people that have done houses that way.

Good luck on the project... DO WORK!

Last edited by VortechSS; 01-14-2011 at 02:27 PM.
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