Dyno-Flo...
 

So I purchased a 540 shortblock from Scott back in March because of reference that he has the cheapest/well put together Dart blocks around. I received it on time and everything appeared to be very well done; balancing and all. I also understand that he cranks engines out like clockwork and sometimes accidents happen.

Saturday, we noticed a crack in the block wall above the oil adapter from someone tightening the allen plug into the block a tad too tight. Again, I understand that the wall is thin at this point and it has been a continuous known problem with the Dart casting for many years as I have researched.

My problem is my telephone conversation with Scott recently. I asked a simple question. "Would you be happy spending $4500 on a short block and receiving what I got?" Depends on the situation was the response. I have not yet siliconed/jbwelded or whatever the hell we are going to do to remedy the issue. It will most likely work. However, I have had a well-known engine expert that frequents these boards and most of you all know tell me that vibrations and so forth can/will cause this crack to migrate and cause bigger problems. I never once asked for a new block or anything to that extent. I asked what will be done if that doesn't fix the problem. I was then told to MIG weld the block and if that isn't good enough then spend $300 and ship it out to Nevada and they will weld it....right...

Let me remind you of the simple consumer economics that took place. I gave Dyno-flo money for a product. I received a defective product.

Customer service is not on their side. "I feel like I am having a 2 hour conversation about a book of matches" was the insult that I received.

Let me ask you guys. Would you be a tad aggravated with this situation particularly the response I received when I addressed the problem?

I talked to Scott once just to see what he had to say. He definitely has the lowest prices but I guess you get what you pay for right?

I don't think you're the only one who has posted about him on OSO. The other guy had problems too...

that guy is an a$$. I bought a short block from him and when I got it you could barely spin it over with a 2' breaker bar. he told me that was "impossible as a 90 pound girl assembles his shortblocks and she had to spin it over during assembly" and then went on to tell me what an idiot I was and to just run it "it will loosen up". he basically cussed me out lol. long story short I ended up spending another $1600 dollars at a reputable machine shop to make it right. like the other guy just said I guess you get what you pay for.

Screwed me sent me the wrong pistons. Then he tells me my machine shop are idiots because " I always use these lifted on everything" I called the componey that built the lifted that say if I used the lifted in my application with in 1 hour that would collaps under the spring pressure. Then he "forgot" to send out my timing chains. Total BS
Fuk Him. Anyone on the West coast to punch him in the nose or kick him in the balls
-Mike
P.S. Im still bullsh!t about it everytime I hear this queer biz.

If you Google "Dyna-Flo Scot"........there is lots of information out there. :D

Can you drill (past crack) an tap to bigger plug ?
Have done before on other plugs.
Jim

That sucks.
The best (read:only) way I have seen to fix it is to grind a trough in the crack. Use a carbide burr and grind a vee into the crack. It's best to grind down to where the crack isn't really visible. Then tig weld it. The problem is getting all of the oil out of the pourous cast iron. You will need to use a high nickel rod. They can be hard to find and are EXPENSIVE for what you get. It's cheap compared to everything else, but seems very exspensive for what it is. The last rod I bought was over $100 for a half pound (about 6 sticks). If you would like to tig weld it and can't find the rod, I would be glad to send a stick to you. Just let me know if I can help.
Eddie