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Repainting engines
OK --just received my 'new' motors---but think i'm going to change the color of them. Any good ideas on how to prep them so the new imron will stick and not flake off.. Iwas thinking just of hitting them with a scoth pad or steel wool, I don't want to get into chemical strippers as the motors are all together. Any thoughts???
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Solid colors go with 300 grit. if metalics go with 600 grit. If you can not get to areas then go with the scotchbright pad. Make sure you use the correct primer and you will be set.
Jon |
If there isn't any paint on them, get em clean and use the Dupont self etching primer (vari-prime) and then top coat with Imron.
I did the big block in my 1956 Chevy that way (but with Centari) 10 years ago and it still shines. I did the 454s in my boat that way 4 years ago with Imron and they look great. If I was to do the '56 again I'd use Imron for the gasoline resistance. If they are already painted use the Reddish brown skotch brite pads and remove any shine from everywhere you want the paint to stick (every nook and crany). Use the 400 wet or dry on the valve covers, oil pan or any 'smooth' surface. Good luck, DS |
Ive painted a couple of engines with Imron. The last one being a new 502 from GM. I deburred the block of casting flash with a die grinder. This is where most paint jobs fail. The paint will give up around sharp corners. Make sure you have the engine totally sealed first so no trash gets into the internals. Next I just scuffed up the factory paint with 400 paper. It takes a while by hand but its doable. Lastly before the spraying of the paint I washed the areas to be painted with laquer thinner to get rid of all grease and soften up the existing paint. Then I shot the Imron without any primer. I have painted several engines with Imron and no primer and never had any problems. One engine shot this way was pulled down and sent to the block shop for a rebuild several years later. The paint still looked good. The block shop couldnt get most of the paint off the block even in the hot tank! The machinist called and said he gave up.
Ron |
My engine builder said ANY paint will stick as long as you use a self etching (fancy words for sandable) primer on the blocks and stuff first
Im using a lacquer metal flake paint on mine He told me no need for Imrons and engine enamels on the blocks and stuff Also the boat engines dont get really that hot either so there should be a billion spray paints that you can choose from between the auto stores and home depot ect. Im using a Plastikote paint (magenta metalflake) on mine and got all the chrome and polished aluminum dress up stuff for them too so they are going to hopefully look nice as all hell Like Puder's engine but in magenta going to be fun and definately my pride and joy Jason |
I'd skip the sand paper and just use a green scotch bright to dull the existing finish. Wipe with wax & grease both before and after scuffing. An option is to shoot a guide coat of epoxy primer. I'd top coat with a enamel as the imron is overkill.
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hmmmmm??? my enge9in is rusted and funky and on an engine stand in my garage. Unless perhaps you've been to bruce's shop and seen the new one ( i havn't) I was planning on painting it though. Metallic Silver and i was goign to use th PPG automotive paint and then clear coat it.
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Oops my fault
That was Cord that did the purple My bad Yo Peace out yo |
Cord said he used House of Kolor Polyurethane enamel
I hope the lacquer holds up on mine Have to take some pics when it is all done should be picking up engines in a week (june 14th) so we will see Jason |
Puder-actually I have seen your new one. In fact, I broke it! :D
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Jason,
I wouldn't use the lacquer. It tends to crack after lots of hot-cold cycling (if its thick). Lacquer chips easier than enamel. Acrylic enamel will shine better right out of the gun. Don't spray can it, the first time you spill gas on Krylon, Rustoleum or any others they are history. DS |
My engine builder said that was a bunch of Hooey!
I said to him that I wanted to get a polyurethane paint but he said NAH, no need they dont get that hot and it will last Problem is the color I want from plastikote is ONLY available in cans and in lacquer. That is the freakin problem Not enough time to get it made either from say House of Kolor Engine builder did say without the etchable primer, your screwed so have to pick that up Was also told that 6 cans of paint for 2 motors To me, that is an awful lot of paint but hey, Do what the man wants Where do you get polyurethane paint from anyway? is it available somewhere on the net so I can see if there is anything close to it? Looking for a metal flake magenta Jason |
Try a local automotive paint supply store. They'll have everything that you'll need. You are going to have to have a gun to shoot the primer (remember you only need to use it as a sealer) so why not gun the color?
6 cans sounds a bit high, but it depends on what your coverage is and if you are doing the accessories. I'd rather have to return a can or two tomorrow than run out and have to buy another one. Just be careful and always keep a wet edge or you'll end up with stripes. |
cant you get etchable primer in a can too?
He told me etchable meant sandable They sell tons of sandable primers in a can and right now I just dont have any more money so the cans are going to have to do Ill worry about it if it gets ugly over next few years (probably sell it before then anyway) and Cord, I have to say your engine looks amazing Saw that and decided to do all in purple and chrome like you but then wife fell in love with this magenta color and half the boat is magenta so I figured screw it ill just do magenta instead of Purple and it should be just as impressive. Jason |
NO, the products are no where near the same! A wet sandable spray bomb primer will easily come off with laquer or paint thinner. I havn't found anything that will take off a epoxy (etching primer). The big difference between the rattle cans and the good stuff is that the good stuff is catalized. It hardens by a chemical reaction. The spray cans only evaporate.
BTW-Thanks for the complement! :D :D |
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