1980 model stryker 2150??
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1980 model stryker 2150??
I found a stryker 2150 here close to the house. I have a couple concerns I would like help with. The guy swears its a 80 model. From the research Ive done they werent made in 80. Also it has a 502 which has never been rebuilt, in it which he said were only made for a couple years with that motor. He keeps calling it a "keith Black" motor. Excuse my ignorance but I dont know what that means. He said he hasnt cranked it in about a year. He also said it would do almost 90. This will be my first I/O boat so tell me what to check and look for. Im counting on you guys experience here. Thanks
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1980 wrong
I use to sell stryker boats. look at the ser# on the rear starboard side of the boat an you can get the year.Bravo drives with big blocks came out in 1988. I had a 88 with a 454 an it was a great boat.Don Brooks wasn't building strykers in 1980.
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yes I have read that thread and every other that exist about strykers and hammonds but it doesnt cure my ignorance. I still dont know what to look for when looking
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I would start with a moisture meter and go over the entire boat with specific focus on the transom and stringers. Stringers are the spine of the boat - they run the length of the boat and provide rigidity to the structure. In most cases the motor will probably be bolted to them in the front engine mounts.
The VIN will be in the upper right corner of the transom usually a couple inches below the rub-rail. The last 2 digits will be the Year.
If he can't PROVE the engine has been rebuilt I think it would be prudent to assume you will need a top end rebuild at some point in the future. Maybe not, but if it has hundreds and hundreds of hours on it it is probably tired at this point and you don't want something catastrophic happening.
The drive is kind of a crap-shoot as to what the internals/rebuild will be. I would go out and lift the drive in all directions to check for wear in the upper and lower pin. I would also assume that with a boat that has been sitting that the bellows and gimbal bearing will need to be replaced. I am assuming it is a bravo.
If I was looking at the boat i would make sure that it was worth the money because it COULD be more costly for you than buying one you know works and you can sea-trial. My .02.
The VIN will be in the upper right corner of the transom usually a couple inches below the rub-rail. The last 2 digits will be the Year.
If he can't PROVE the engine has been rebuilt I think it would be prudent to assume you will need a top end rebuild at some point in the future. Maybe not, but if it has hundreds and hundreds of hours on it it is probably tired at this point and you don't want something catastrophic happening.
The drive is kind of a crap-shoot as to what the internals/rebuild will be. I would go out and lift the drive in all directions to check for wear in the upper and lower pin. I would also assume that with a boat that has been sitting that the bellows and gimbal bearing will need to be replaced. I am assuming it is a bravo.
If I was looking at the boat i would make sure that it was worth the money because it COULD be more costly for you than buying one you know works and you can sea-trial. My .02.