they look to be the waste gate actuators...? If so they have to be there and have been before.

I see now. Looked a little closer and I can now see the arm attached to back of electronic units. Used to mechanical waste gates.

there pulse width modulated vane controls,ie,electron variable vane control.the new modern waste gate control.

Indeed, & you get faster spoolup

very cool --I learn something new everyday...Now if i can only remember it all!

Engine support mock up, it's going to be close, but staggered will do the job

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...34ABA75169.JPG

i was just writing a post to ask if there were any updates, looking good.

My pump is a Denso rotary mechanical very similar to this one, I can't get the pictures to post. Yanmar has the full load set screw and the maximum speed set screw safety wired with a special tag to prevent these from being adjusted. Is it as simple as turning those screws to get more RPM or its more involved than that?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/navarzo...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/navarzo...n/photostream/

Wel before doing anything you have to put an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge to make sure you don't melt your pistons while turning those screws.

imo you would need some assistence from a diesel tuner

Little different than the DB2's we had but probably same principle. Here is my best advice, buy an old pump and take it to fuel injection place and run it on the stand, do your playing there before you break something working you don't want to have to fix. Don't let anybody tell you they can make adjustments in the boat to a mechanical system and know what they've done - impossible!

I don't know those but most likely the screws outside the pump (throttle shaft) are for degrees of rotation of the shaft as to not go over center and cause binding which could lead to the engine being stuck in full throttle.

The one in the back I'm guessing (if you had it open or a diagram we could be sure) is your high speed? Again, get a drawing and always play on a test stand, even if you take one of yours off, run it on the stand, see how many CC's you make at what rpm's, have them increase the rpm's and make sure the CC's don't drop off.

The faster the engine turns the more fuel starvation you will have. If you turn too fast you'll see the CC's drop not because of the governor but because of chroniclogical time it take to fill the barrel with fuel.

Chances are you can get another 300-400 rpm's out of it without much trouble at all.

Remember it takes a little more Hp for every rpm faster you spin just to over-come the drag.

When you put the pump on the stand and hold the throttle wide open you'll see ther amount of CC's you flow is very high and it will start to drop off as it spins faster. If you increase 300 rpms you have be certain you are flowwing a little more fuel at this rpm then you were at stock or else you won't go faster than stock - you'll be out of Hp. Unless you are not using all the HP you have available - the engine is up against the governor stops at full rpm then you get a some more rpm's.

Also, pump speed is like cam speed 1/2 crank speed so 300 rpm engine is 150 rpm pump speed.

You can always call me 732-718-2711.

i wasn't planning on messing with them until I find somebody that knows what they are doing but nobody down here seems to have any idea of the people I have talked to. If you have a diesel pickup 100 people can help you, diesel marine engine, its like your asking them to work on the lunar rover! Thanks Joe that is a good idea, that is all I am really looking for is 300-400 more RPM and really only the extra HP it takes to spin that amount nothing more. I want to keep the boat reliable. Are you coming down for the Miami Boat show?

I ran it yesterday with the exhaust disconnected from the drives and it accelerated much much better, I also saw a fuel economy increase of .1 to .2 mpg. When I ran it wide open i was initially burning about 16+ GPH while still accelerating but as the speed leveled off and I was no longer accelerating it was only burning about 15 gph (per motor) around 3850 rpm. So it seems I am not using all the power the motor has to run wide open.