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The Lowes sander is the Porter Cable model I have. It works just fine and is the same random orbital polisher. Make sure you get a new backing plate and pads though because the ones that come with it are junk.
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Originally Posted by chris@uga
(Post 3640894)
I'd also go with more pressure than 3-4lbs. More like 17-20lbs including the weight of the machine. You can practice on a bathroom scale. Of course, you don't turn on the machine when doing this. lol
I'd also recommend using less polish on the pad. 2-3 drops rather than 4-5. More product equals sling and clogged pads. Less is more here. Also, look into the microfiber pads by McGuire's or Optimum. Newer technology than foam or wool and will cut more like wool but finish down like foam. Also, wash the boat again with Dawn dishwashing detergent or some appropriate soap with some all purpose cleaner mixed in to clean off the polishing oils prior to waxing. You can alternatively wipe the boat down with a 75% water/25% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) mixture to remove polishing oils. -Tim Performance Boat Candy |
Originally Posted by soldier4402
(Post 3641012)
are you looking into just waxing and polishing or heavy duty work? If your just looking for the common wax and buff jobs I have a harbor freight special that works fine for 30 bucks. Now if I were to be more involved and need major work I would probably spend the money. The one I have is about the size of a palm sander.
Thanks |
Originally Posted by happy hours
(Post 3638537)
I bought the 74 PC a while back and works well. I still hate waxing the boat though and it needs waxed badly. They need to invent one that I can sit in the pool and drink beer while it does the work. :-)
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Originally Posted by PBC 1
(Post 3641142)
While I agree with your comments in part, wouldn't you recommend that for a beginner/intermediate user, they should start with less pressure and inspect the area since there are other variables such as product type, pad density, etc. that come into play? My approach when instructing detailers is to take a less aggressive approach in the beginning, inspect the work, then increase pressure and other factors as needed. The reason is that not all products on the market work the same. Here's an example that I've experienced when testing and developing our products: Two well-known companies' products we tested side by side both claimed their polish removed 2500 grit sanding marks, however because one of the products' cutting powders didn't diminish as quickly as the other, the results were different, given all other factors were equal (same pad, polisher, pressure, technique, etc.). The product that didn't break down as quickly as the other had more cutting action and therefore a much different result. This is why we always instruct our customers to take a less aggressive approach--you can always increase factors such as pressure, product type/brand, pad density, polisher speed, etc to get a different result. While this is not as critical for polishing as it is for compounding, the concept is the same. The surface is also a critical factor; if a boat is painted vs. gel coated, the technique should definitely start with a less aggressive approach. Given that I don't know the level of expertise readers of this thread have, nor the products and tools they are ultimately using, my suggestion is to start less aggressive and adjust from there. JMO.
-Tim Performance Boat Candy Excellent points - all of them. One of the very first and most important rules of detailing is "least aggressive pad / process / product first." Said another way, it's a whole lot easier moving up the scale to get the correction level needed than it is fixing a worse mess that you just created. |
Originally Posted by waterman
(Post 3645823)
Does this buffer have the same orbital action as the porter cable? My paint is in perfect shape so I use book keen polish. I'm just looking for something easier then doing it by hand.
Thanks |
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