Cryo-treated gears/parts
 

I remember reading some info about some drive gears being tested with a cyro-treatment of some sort but can't remember the specifics......how did it work?

I'm just now interested in the results because I've come across another product that someone claims this treatment works wonders.....brake rotors for racing. I'm road racing my street car and eating rotors with aggressive pads and a heavy car. In just one hot weekend I warp them beyond "turning". Wondering if it's worth the extra money????

I've used Pro Cryo with great results. They are fantastic to deal with.


http://www.procryo.com/

You can get them from here...

http://www.frozenrotors.com/

Check with OffshoreDrillen (Rob). I think I remember that he had his done... Not sure what his results were.

Smitty (Arctic friends) has done list of tests.

Seems the result is that Cryo and Rem will help stop pitting, but dont change the fact the big heavy boats blow bravos to bits.

Uncle Dave

Exactly!~!

I had alot of stuff cryoed and also isoed, race car ring and pinions, automatic transmission th-400 pinion/sun gears in 1200 hp off road trucks, outdrive gears in bravos and there is a benefit most of the time. I spoke with the owner of the place that cryoed stuff for me often and one of the biggest things he talked about was cryoing rotors for imcas, super late models, craftsman truck series etc. I was told that a rotor that would last one weekend of racing on a late model would sometimes last all season after cryo treatment, fwiw, Smitty

I try to learn from other peoples spending...its hard... but I try..

Didn't mean to put "words in your mouth" there. That was what I gathered from a couple years of following your posts.

Uncle Dave

I started cryo'n race car parts almost 14 years ago. In my case it was mostly transmission components. I would run 1.16 60's in a 3100 lb car hitting the nitrous while still on the transbrake which resulted in a 1200hp instant hit to a TH400 that other than the cryo'd shafts and basket and an aftermarket valve body was basically stock. I'd bring in the 2nd stage at about the 80 foot mark for another 350hp. Over 100 launches like that on those cryo parts without a single failure. I'd watch bud's hit the trailer with their broken high buck, aftermarket billet stuff all the time...and they weren't abusing it on the line like I was. Cryo works. And if you have your 'ol lady cryo a pair of her nylons she'll never need another pair ;)

I can tell you that at the time the local cryo guy was doing a TON of brake parts for all the local SCCA and roundy-round guys.

That's where I came across them (from a recommendation on a race forum).
I'm pulling laps at several road courses (VIR, Summit Point) and in 5 weekends I'm starting on my third set of rotors.....ordering a second set of front brakes as this weekend will likely be the end of the first set. The problem........the car is 4,475 lbs with me in it and yes, most of that is the car!!!! Even though it's a street car I'm starting to pull some pretty good laps and compressing the braking zones alot. Getting the car from 145mph to about 40 mph in a couple hundred yards is just tough on parts!!!!

Thanks for the info, these might be my next set.

4500lbs!! You sure your trailer isn't hooked to the back of it?

Yep, the only thing on track heavier is the Ambulance!!!!!
Dodge Charger SRT-8. Daily driver with all the "stuff" inside. CAI and a tuner making 400hp at the rear wheels, only trip down the 1/4 mile was when it had 1,700 miles on it....(ran a 12.9 @110) Since I started road racing it I've added Carbotech pads, Wilwood brake fluid, several rotors, and made brake ducts into the front facia.

.........and it's bright red. I get lots of comments about a big azz red 4-door suddenly appearing in their rear view mirrors. I've been moved up to the next group and fully expect to be passed a bit as so far I've been the one doing all the passing.

I found out about cryo treated rotors from a friend that ran a Subaru rally car. Their rules require factory rotors which could barely survive a single rally. The treated rotors lasted 3 rallys.

Suggestion...Change your brake fluid from Wilwood to Castrol SRF. We run SRF in all of our race Porsches. Have tested all the fluids out there and SRF is the best. Pricey, but the best. If you want to change I sell it.

Also I don't know if they sell anything, but you might want to look into a bigger brake kit, like something from StopTech.

We run the StopTech kits on all of our Cayman Interseries cars we build.

Smitty

i had the frozen rotor disks on my dually.....never thought it made a difference till i lost the entire brake system on my 30 scarab at LOTO. I had to down a windy hill to launch the boat.....needless to say it was scary as hell to have close to 10k lbs pushing you down the hill!! :eek: when i got to the bottom after literally standing on the brake pedal for more then half the way down the hill......the rotors were glowing red and smoke was pouring out like i busted a radiator hose! i thought for sure they were toast...but not even a shimmy! I also had the carbon tech pads....only thing i didn't like about them was the cold braking....but when they heat up, watch out! :D

the gears in my xrs were done when my boat was new. lasted 3x longer than a stock new gearset. people that says it doesnt work either sell drives or never tried it! i refreshed my drives that never blew up and got 1/3 the life out of them!

Thanks for the info guys (and the PM from the guy I need to call). Just got home having spent the weekend at the track. I used a set of rotors I've been using for daily driving and just warped them but not bad......I can likely turn them for non-racing use.

Turns out braking wasn't the issue this weekend. After 3 weekends I trashed the power steering pump. Saturday was my 6th weekend and trashed another power steering pump. Driving around between session I found a pump and replaced it to continue racing.....onlyu missed one session on track. Getting expensive but damn this is fun!!!!!

I sure don't want that thing when your lease is up!

Does anyone else have any experience with cryo treated
Bravo xr gears or cryo/rem polishing? It seems as so this would make the gearsets stronger and last longer? OR... more brittle and break down faster? It seems like someone would have some information. Let me know if that someone is you.

Thanks,

Dan

You might want to talk to these people;

www.bonal.com

This is stress-relief shaking. More old school than cryo but just as effective and takes far less time to do.

I have all my gears cryoed and have yet to have a broken gear.......but I have heard that some gear sets coming out of mercury are not as good as the older ones. I had purchased a few sets a while back to keep some stock on hand and had them cryoed. No problem with them, but I have heard that more recent sets have had issues. It was told to me that the cryo process works, but if your starting with junk you will end up with junk.........sort of like cryoing a bannana........good luck !!!

I cyoed and iso rem'd lower bravo gears and the life under extreme hp doubled (my usual failure was pitting on the surface of tooth that turned into craters). I also cryo'ed and isoed upper gears and they took longer to pit. I did some for a overseas racer however that blows teeth off upper gears completely and it made ZERO difference so it helps them from pitting as fast but they still break catastrophically, Smitty

Thats awesome! Start a thread with some pics of you racing!

I have run my Crossfire and turbo Lotus Elise. I love the track but tires, brakes, etc get expensive fast! Especially when the car gets run double every time, both myself and Kristy. (she normally is faster!)

Good luck on the Cryo rotors. You already have some HUGE brakes on the car factory, so hopefully it works for you.

Have you looked into a power steering pump cooler?

Good luck and post some pics!