djm

I need to get my boat off the trailer for it's annual acid wash and wax job. Local marinas want all the money for this, how can I pull this off without dropping my boat?

Is this a correct way to do it?

-Tie the stern to a tree
-Load up cinder blocks and wood under the chines in the rear
-Pull truck forward slowly, let stern fall and rest on the wood
-Jack up the keel between the rollers
-Contnue pulling truck forward & re-position the keel jack to support the boat (using 2 jacks)
-Jack up boat with cinder block and wood once it's clear


To get the boat on the trailer reverse the process but use the winch with truck in neutral.

What does everybody think? Should I rely on the rollers while pulling the trailer out from the boat or keep it lifted with the jacks?

290PQ

djm, This winter when I rebuilt my trailer I had a friend of mine who works on boats for a living come over and help me.
We used floorjacks and wood blocks.
Be very carefull and move real slow!! It's pretty scary seing your boat hanging there only supported by some blocks.

sean stinson

If you've never performed this operation before don't attempt it alone.

FloridianSon

I went to home depot bought 4 6x6x12 and 4 4x6x10 got my post hole digger and planted the 6x6 in the ground made header with the 4x6 and used three comealongs did the bottom work !when it came time to put it in the shop to paint the bottom had the weilder make up 2ft.x2ft. steel platforms that the 6x6 fit into and had my 27' high enough to just about walk under

boot

Never use "Cinder" blocks ,they will crumble .Use cement blocks .
Put a flat board under the bottom block .THen stack blocks the right way (Holes facing UP not sideways). If you can easily slide the boat back about a foot do so .If not put the blocks under the rear corners of the boat .ONly put them on the flat surface of the corner (CHINE) not on an angle . The easiest way is to jack up the hole back of the trailer about 6" or so .THis will lift the boat too . THen place blocks under corners and let trailer down slow and even . Then go under the boat near the middle (front to back ) and put a very secure jack under the 'V' right in front of cross member of trailer . It is very hard to do with a floor jack ,as the jack pulls towards you as it lifts which will trist the boat off the rear blocks ! NEVER GET BETWEEN THE BOAT AND TRAILER !! If it falls your dead ! It's best to use a good bottle jack ontop of a good block . This is very tricky !!!! MAke sure you have help that you trust ! Just pull forward slow until jack nears next crossmember and reset jack . Always lift and /or block on perfectly flat surfaces . ONce it is off block it up good ! and secure it .

Of course it's real fun to back the trailer back under it perfectly straight with out knocking it off the blocks ! THis is tuff as most people can't back up at all ,let alone acurately . Good luck with it . TAke your time and be careful .

djm

Thanks for the great replies, lots of good info. He doesn't know it yet, but my buddy who has experience with this and a nice level driveway will be helping me.

Boot, I like the idea of jacking the trailer up 1st- thanks

What do you think of using the winch to get the trailer back under the boat along with some shimmying of the bottle jacks between crossmembers. I think if I use the bottle jacks I can disconnect the trailer from the truck and winch it on, that should keep things straight??

JohnJan

Here's how I did my 26 T'bred that weighs around 4800lbs:

Floor jack under transom notch to get the stern clear of the trailer. Cinder blocks with 4X4 blocks under chine at transom to support stern. The blocks didn't crumble since the wood distributed the load over a large surface of the block.

Then I used a bottle jack about midships just behind the trailer's lateral member. Lifted the boat with the jack to clear the trailer bunks. Used the truck to pull the trailer forward next trailer member was about to contact jack. Lowered jack and moved jack to behind next trailer member. Repeat process until trailer was free.

Blocked keel (yes, with cinder blocks) just ahead of midships.

Boat sat there for a month while trailer was rebuilt.

Reverse order to get trailer under boat again.

Chart

What about having a tow truck come out? Block the stern, and use the tow truck on the front lifting ring to support the bow, while you pull the trailer fwd from under the boat.

Sounds to me like the most dangoures part is the bottle jack and the moving the trailer fwd a few feet at a time.

boot

Johnjan, The cinder blocks will brake given the chance too . Why risk it ? Just get cement blocks instead. Your right if you use wood on top AND bottom it shouldn't brake if pressure is aplied perfectly straight down . But with lifting and pulling side to side and back and forth you are twisting the blocks ,thats when they give out .

I have done this many times with my 40' formula and now with my 39' cat and had good luck .
I just resently got careless with my little tiny jet boat and 3 blocks on one side cracked right in half !! Lucky the trailer was under it to catch it !

Why take a chance ? Once it falls it's too late ! THink what it will do to the drive and transom if not kill someone near by ! You can do it . Just take your time and use good stuff to do it . If it cost you an extra $30 for blocks or even buy another jack ,it's cheaper then fixing the boat and more pleasant then a hospital visit !

djm, the winch will work as long as you don't have enough drag pull the boat over . That way you can steer it by hand or maybe just a couple people could push the trailer .

CHart , I have used several different lifts , cranes , and tow trucks too. They work but it;s real hard to get it centered just right front to back and side to side . Most times when you lift it pullls one way or the other twisting the boat . It can be done and is easier then moving the jack around but it's a little tipsey !

boot

Maybe the best thing would be to go hot wire the travel lift and drive it home one night !