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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 3765620)
I had that in the past twice before I knew inconel was a MUST.
Once I got luck like you, the second time it took out the piston and cylinder wall, I tore engine down, machined what was needed and was back in within 2 weeks with new inconel on both engines!!! I assembled the head and got boat running last night, she runs sweet!!! After talking to Bob Madara on the phone the past couple of days, I think I am going to pull the Rev exhaust valves from my engine this winter and install a set of inconels. Apparently, according to Bob, high speed cruising at 3800 - 4000 RPM can get the valves hotter than a full throttle blast. They spend so much time off the seat in these conditions, under high load, that it is tough for heat transfer to take place. The inconels can handle the heat stress much better than a regular (even high grade) stainless valve. FullForce, if you only replaced the one failed valve, I would consider going back through it this winter and replacing the rest of them. You might have some others fatiguing that may fail in the future. |
I installed them myself and purchased inconel...you can check with a magnet inconel is not magnetic..the magnet should grab about halfway up the shaft where it is fitted to stainless..
I had a clogged fuel filter that caused lean condition.. that is alean cylinder anyway.made it worse Dean gellner said inconel are pretty much no limit valves until you ruin em. He has race boats with lots of time on inconel valves he has told me... |
Oh yea.. the reason 3800-4000 is hard on em is that's around where torque and hp mix causing the most heat
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I have found that the magnet test is not always a good indication that you have inconel. Yes, a magnet definitely will not stick to inconel, but it also will not stick to most regular stainless valves. I have a set if stainless INTAKE valves that a magnet will not stick to.
I read that you can sometimes tell if it is inconel by the sparks that are emitted by a grinding wheel, but who would want to do that to their expensive exhaust valves? :faint2: |
I knew these were anyway since I bought em and did my own work.... but anything can happen in a boat engine!!!!
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 3765712)
I knew these were anyway since I bought em and did my own work.... but anything can happen in a boat engine!!!!
Was there any part number or markings on the valve(s) that you bought? Did you purchase the Manley Extreme Duty valve, PN 11587? I'm asking because there's a set for sale on ePay for a low price - seller states that they are new but not in original packaging. He refers to them as "bulk pack". Color me suspicious unless there is some way for me to know for sure that they are really the inconel valves and not some cheaper alloy. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 3765865)
You got that right!
Was there any part number or markings on the valve(s) that you bought? Did you purchase the Manley Extreme Duty valve, PN 11587? I'm asking because there's a set for sale on ePay for a low price - seller states that they are new but not in original packaging. He refers to them as "bulk pack". Color me suspicious unless there is some way for me to know for sure that they are really the inconel valves and not some cheaper alloy. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 3765872)
Part number seems right....the magnet trick was shown to me by Gellner he's a well known marine engine builder here.... that part number is right I think.....don't have paperwork in front of me.... new valves should be in vacuum bags
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Full force are you going to cumberland next week?
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Nope....actually staying on mainland
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