i totally agree,and 220 at long periods is good,my car goes down the road at 217 deg,and thats at 2100 rpm.

What about at lower rpm. A friend had a procharged 502 and it was way too rich at low rpm and diluting the oil with fuel. 220 for oil temp isn't too high.

I would also check the filter. If you are getting 220*F after the cooler I would be a little concerned. I'm ~175*F after a hard run and 200*F before the cooler.
Experts...... If the timing is retarded to much doesn't that escalate oil temps? (I forget)

oil pressure
 

Sorry forgot to add. It does have the bigger cooler mounted to the back of the block. I also have a oil thermostat. I am going to cut the filter tonight and see what I have in there. Is there any way to chech the pressure relief valves in the filter flange head?

THX Everbody

If you want to check your oil for metal, fuel, or water get a wix oil analysis kit. The part number is wix 24077. You can get them for under $20 which includes the container to ship the oil in and the analysis. I have done this on several engines and it has saved me more than once. Depending on what is in the oil they speculate what potential problems could occur. They give you a printout of about 15 different things they check for with acceptable limits and what yours is. As far as 3 minutes WOT, that is just getting going. I ran a stock 1996 454 mag 365 HP WOT throttle, except for backing off in the air, for about 25 minutes. That is when the oil overtemp light on the gauge came on at about 260 degrees.

Oil temps are not bad, dont foget the extra boost forces rods down harder and if you dont have the pressure to keep the clearances you are gonna start to hurt bearings.... you can easily do your own analysis, if you have the issue you will know it, you can always find very fine crap in any filter, but if you are to the point of hurting bearings its easily seen...

I run coated bearings and shimmed HV pumps, I have 40 at idle and 75-80 WOT at 180 oil temps.. K&N oil filters, guys will say its the oil filter but unless you have junk filters from dollar general its not the filter...

if it comes apart do the whole freshening, wont be that much, you can ball hone it and re-ring for cheap, spend the money on coated bearings and shim oil pump, make sure everything is balanced PERFECT as it saves engines...

its worth it to go over it well....

I changed a crank in an engine last yr due to being afraid the crank was undersized for the app. No problem doing just the bottom end if you are very careful with what you are doing. You will need to pull the crank to measure each journal. Then figure out how to torque each rod cap with nothing keeping it from spinning with new bearings in it to check clearances. If you can do this you can do what you want. It is very hard to get a crank in and out with rod bolts sticking out I will tell you that. It is very hard to torque rods with the piston/rod assem still in the block. It can be done, but it is tricky. It is certainly best to tear it down to the block and not be a lazy/cheap azz.

FWIW, I also agree 3 mins at WOT in a blown HP marine engine is getting on the side of very frequent total rebuilds needed, if not, and more probable worse.

pressure
 

Just cut the filter no metal in it . Im going to try to plug my 11 psi pressure relief valve and pull the center relief valve. Any ideas how to plug it ?

THX

Nahhhhh its fine!

Just all about keeping an eye on things!! my buddy was on his 4th season until last weekend he hurt a piston, we think he got a bad dose of fuel as another friend did same thing shortly after getting gas at same place..

hes making roughly 800 hp and runs the chit out of it...

Are you really suggesting running a 2 stroke oil ?