![]() |
Originally Posted by looseconnection
(Post 3795664)
Do you warm up first to get stats open? Ihave always ran motors up to temp first to ensure all cooling passages are full of a/f.
A/F IS CHEAPER THAN A CRACKED BLOCK OR COOLER:lolhit: |
Originally Posted by HEDGEHOGER
(Post 3795618)
went to winterize the boat this morning and couldnt find the holes in the bottom of the block so i just drained the hoses and refilled the block with antifreeze through the hoses now im just hopeing the blocks full guess we'll find out in the spring:evilb:
|
Hey guys I have been winterizing for many years, but never drained the block. I always run the engine to temp and ran anti-freeze with know problem. This year I did it different ran to temp and drained the block then did the anti-freeze, but I only got three gallons thru before the engine started to heat up it was coming out the exhaust at that point, so I shut it down. Then drained the exhaust manifold. Question is that enough anti-freeze
thanks |
Originally Posted by Too Stroked
(Post 3795732)
+ 3 (or 4) on this leading to a very bad experience in the spring. (Seen it waaay too many times each spring.) You must find both block drains (on the sides of each block), pull the plugs, then rod out the hole with a piece of wire, a zip tie or something else to dislodge any sediment. Also, did you pull the lower hose on the circulating pump on the front of the motors or just the hoses leading to the exhaust manifolds? Did you drain the power steering cooler?
|
fixx
Originally Posted by masi242
(Post 3795769)
Hey guys I have been winterizing for many years, but never drained the block. I always run the engine to temp and ran anti-freeze with know problem. This year I did it different ran to temp and drained the block then did the anti-freeze, but I only got three gallons thru before the engine started to heat up it was coming out the exhaust at that point, so I shut it down. Then drained the exhaust manifold. Question is that enough anti-freeze
thanks [YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzDob8um5Xc[/YOUTUBE] i also fog the engine when its running.. |
Should I pull the t-stat and fill extra just to make sure
|
We usually pull all the drain plugs...run the engine for 10 seconds burping the throttles to get most of the water. Then we run a/f thru muffs on a pump for 3-4 mins, ensuring the t stat is open.
in your case if you can't start the engine...pull all the plugs and fill with a/f. you won't have a problem. On our 6.2's there are 3 but the most important one is the main plug on the bottom in the front. not sure about your setup. |
Thanks I think Fix has it right the water was hot coming out off the block, but by the time i had anti-freeze going thru was a few minutes later 5-10. So I guess the T-stat was closing, I`ll pull the T-stat an add a little extra.
|
Originally Posted by JETTDOGG
(Post 3795624)
I took a 5 gal screwed a outdoor hose into the bottom- side attatched a legnth of garden hose to the spicket and my water ears on the drive.
Put a few gallons of anti-freeze in the bucket and set it higher than the drive. Start engine open spicket and fast idle until i see only anti freeze coming out the exhaust. Leaves pure a/f in engine. Best part is no screwin w/hose clamps, etc. And you can use it year after year |
also, you need hot water to open a t-stat. drain an engine and start it and the thermo will close. the hot steamy air in the cooling system at that point doesn't open thermostats. if you can't run engine, take off water pump or crossover. drains motor pretty far down. reinstall and fill with straight-not 50-50- real antifreeze-not pink RV crap. remove t-stat housing and fill thru there. then hold hoses that feed exhaust down below bottom of exhausts. and put drives down and leave them there all winter. your shift boots and trim cyls will thank you in the spring...
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:26 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.