not really, the point of throttling it is to keep the props spinning at the speed needed to keep the boat going the same speed, roll out and roll back in. that way there is no harsh loading or unloading. if throttling (proper) was causing any damage then why would anybody do it? might as well just install rev limiters and let them fly unless your the guy from that fountain video.

Lol

The outdrive has to be the worse device ever designed for the transition of crankshaft rotation to propeller.

If this was FB, I would "like" this statement.

my boat stands straight up and drags for ever if i dont role on the throttle pretty quick. Now I dont just slam them down. I dont know if it is my pitch or what but when i got the boat i tried to bring it up slow and it just didnt want to go. the bow came up so high i couldnt see and sounded like the props where just sliping. I am running bravo x drives with 28p 4 blades. to me it seamed harder on the drives and motors then rolling the throttles up quicker to get it up on plane.

Here’s one very good reason not to hammer the sticks out of the hole. When you’re idling, your hull acts as a displacement hull. That is, it displaces the water in front of it to move forward. As we all know, displacement hulls (blow boats, tugs, aircraft carriers) are not very efficient – because there’s so much resistance.

Once your hull comes up on plane, resistance drops dramatically since it is now riding up and over the water. But, the transition from displacing water to riding up and over it consumes a ton of power to overcome that resistance.

So coming up on place involves overcoming some serious resistance. Sure, one could simply hammer the sticks and overcome the resistance through the application of brute power. But, since water is basically incompressible, all of that resistance is going to show up somewhere. One place is pressure against the hull. A more important place – for the purposes of this discussion – is the bearings, gears and other load bearing surfaces in your engine and drive. Do you really want to spike the pressure curve and hope your driveline lubricants can survive the attack or maybe spread the force out (and reduce it) over more time?

Same goes for throttling a boat in rough water. Folks who think the sticks should be operated like toggle switches (like the guy in the Fountain at LOTO) tend to break a lot of stuff. Why? Back to the incompressible stuff you’re floating in. (See Glass Dave's post.)

Many boats require “significant throttle input” to get up on plane. Heck, mine comes up pretty slow because the lawn care device on the transom is cranked up so far on the jack plate. But, one doesn’t need to slap the sticks to get to full throttle. In fact if I ease into it, although it may take me a bit longer to get up on plane, but it actually takes less throttle. And there’s significantly less stress on the driveline. If I simply hammer it, all it does is try to burn a hole in the water.

"lawncare device on the transom" thanks I needed that laugh! I think I just pissed my pants lol

We are in the same boat you are (no pun intended). unless the sticks go up towards the dash and hit around 3800 RPM, boat ain't coming on plane. we have a lot of nose lift and we will keep slipping unless its pushed to a higher RPM. Tried tucking the drives and messing with the tabs...no better. Just put it on the wall!!!!

I just put the sticks all the way forward then pull them back an 1/8th of and inch because i heard wide open is bad

have you tried putting the tabs all the way down ? Also it's different when the props are slipping, the 382 needed a quick blast of throttle to get going but could roll back as the props started to bite and not load the drives so hard