That's good info Kurt. I read that post a while back, and known you long enough now, to know that you're a sharp guy, and that wasn't just a fluke experience. I have no reason to doubt your experience with that.

I do get it and don't want to argue. The 2 links you mentioned originally were more definitions than anything else. John Martin spent most of his time with Lubrizol. Lubrizol supplies the bulk of the oil companies with their add pack. I'm sure he's way smarter than we are. But he doesn't talk about a specific oil brands. This last article that list the 14 oils truthfully is tough to completely understand. One thing I did note though was that he said he only had 47 oils in his data base. I may be wrong, but I think there are more than 47 oils out there. So, his "winner" is just that. HIS WINNER.

:blahblah::blahblah::blahblah::point:

mild,how dare you post this info with ONLY 47 oils in the data base,what the hell were you thinking you weiner.:cartman:

Your kidding right? The point is the outcome he has listed is incomplete and totally misleading. I don't care which oil you choose. Let's say Mobil 1 for the sake of conversation. Let's assume he chose one part number (because that is what he has in his data base!!!!) and perhaps it only came up to his definition of modest. A bunch of people on this thread now go "gee I'm surprised at how poorly Mobil 1 did". How is that right/fair to Mobil 1 who perhaps has many other part numbers that may have come up to outstanding, or whatever the term they used as the top performer. Not to mention I don't even know what his data means. Is this data a recognized method used by the industry. I don't know, do you?

As posted earlier I have run Brad Penn with only ok results. Same type of situation where there were oil pressure issues much earlier than I expected. . Amsoil , Mobil 1 and Valvoline Racing are three more that I have personally had good luck with. I have and still do run Venom Semi synthetic and have had very good luck so far. Got the Venom info from a tractor pulling friend of mine and it has been great and is priced reasonably. Just my 2 cents no oil guru here just sharing what has worked for me and my customers.

yep,you are right,his post was all a lie and totally misleading and a smart guy like you could see right through it,but my dumb azz found it informative.you have your mind made up and feel the need to bash the thread,so no need for you to pay any attention to it,so leave it alone.go find another dead horse to beat on. GEEEZ .your negativity is to much for me,im done with this.

I don't know. Seems like a decent comparision of those oils to me. Shows what additives are in each of the oils, and how that particular oil tested. He even mentions that all the oils tested are good oils. He never knocked any of them. Tell me what other independent test do you have that's more thorough?? I don't know why you have such a hard on for this test I posted a link to. My guess is your favorite brand of oil is listed, and it didn't fair so well in the test. So now the test is labeled inconclusive, and misleading based on benjens credentials. So far, you haven't brought anything to the table worth reading.

Obviously the key is maintainance over brand. Whether x oil tests at 60,000PSI, or Y tests at 100,000psi, how do we know 60,000 isn't plenty for what we do? I don't know the answer to that. But, next time im shopping for oil, and the oil that sustained the 60,000psi, is next to the oil that sustained 100,000psi, and they are the same price, I'm gonna grab the one that tested better, vs the color of the quart or the label that's on it. The test I posted did not appear to be one of those infomercials trying to promote a certain product. There seemed to be enough data to rule out BS claims and biased opinion.

I guess my whole point to this thread, was theres more to oil than how much "zddp" is in it. Because that's about all everyone ever talks about, or looks at, in their basis on whether or not its a "good'' oil.

Let me ask you Ben, since I and several others have tried to contribute and share some useful information amongst each other,

What oil do you run and recommend?

Ok, man if that is how you feel. I was not trying to argue or be negative. As I said above I just felt that it was misleading to all the oil companies to be honest. You and I both know there will never be total agreement on the subject of oil. Truthfully all the name brands are going to do the job for you. The amount of engine failures as a direct result of an oil issue are so slight it probably isn't even worth mentioning (excluding the flat tappet issues............which argueably could be traced to other issue as well as reduced zinc. But, we certainly can't go there.). So, goodnight.

Joe, don't waste your time. Your input on this topic I can guarantee you made a lot of people think "no shxx, I didn't know that!" And that's the purpose of these threads! I truly wish if people didn't like a thread they would save everyone's time and just not even read it. Bring me solutions, not excuses and stupidity!!! Thanks again.

On topic, a lot of people really like Royal Purple and AMS oils. Were they in the tests or did I miss it. Just curious and thanks again.

Sammys Snake Oil.....$5.00 a qt. Pour in two horsepower per quart !! :party-smiley-004::lolhit:

Ok, fair enough. I use Royal Purple. I use Royal Purple because of what I know about the company and their performance in the world of racing. For example: NHRA PRO/STOCK. Several cars run Royal Purple. They run the XPR 3.1 which is a 0W-5. Mike Edwards is a user. This year he has qualified number one at all 5 races and reset the record twice this year. Most recently this past Saturday. Naturally aspirated 1500 horse big blocks shifting at 10,600. Say's something I think.They have like no oil pressure at idle but don't hurt parts. Why? I assume the high film strength of the product.
Anyway, the company started as an industrial company specializing in oiling problems/solutions. There biggest customer was and still is Mobil. Mobil could not keep their Alaskan Pipe line pumps together. They hired Royal Purple who solved their problems. That was quite some time ago before they went into the motor oil business. Their "synerlec" ingredient is in their industrial products as well as their motor oil. I don't want to get into a full blown boring deal here. But you asked. Royal Purple buys the majority of their base product from Mobil. Except they actually buy a better grade I believe than what Mobil uses in their own Mobil 1. Most of the oil companies buy a pre mixed bag of ingredients from Lubrizol. Royal Purple buys from Lubrizol as well, but they buy the ingredients they choose one by one. They mix it like a a baker makes a cake one ingredient at a time (as opposed to dumping it all in like say a Duncan Hines mix would be done). There is a specific temperature and time for each ingredient to be added. All of their oils have superior corrosion protection (which I feel we need in a marine world as well as all the down time between useage). Of course there is much more and this explanation is certainly over simplified, but I believe in their product. I don't care what a chart says although they were ok on the chart of 14 listed. Even though their best oils were not part of his data base. I regress, sorry! The fact is real world results are there for anyone to check. That's my story.

but their marketing is second to none!

They have like no oil pressure at idle but don't hurt parts. Why? I assume the high film strength of the product.


No, they have, as you say, "no oil pressure at idle" because pressure is not a good thing. Pressure is caused by resistance, and you don't want resistance. You want oil volume in racing circumstances, as you should as well in the boating world. A lighter viscosity oil, i.e. the 0w-5 (never heard anything of the sort before, but I'm sure is possible) is going to give these racers way more oil volume in their motors, therefore better lubrication! I personally am not a fan of Royal Purple, but synthetics in general are, as you said, going to have a higher film strength as well, therefore better protection also.

Well, that makes sense. Thanks for the input.

In that case I think you may be more dilusional that you may think, even more so if you think Nascar or NHRA team show up at your local Auto zone to pick up their Royal Purple:lolhit:

AHHH well there you have it, the test are garbage cause your favorite oil didnt fair so well, Mild hit it right on the nail.
Back 10 years ago back in my drag racing days the word was out about Royal Purple, you`re wasting your money buddy. Just like Bose and Optima batteries its over hyped and over priced.
Continue to waste your money and please stay out of thread where people have an open mind

Still at it I see. Mild called me an "armchair something" because I had only 114 post. This is why. It makes no sense no matter what a person says to discuss matters like this on these threads.

Because you have not come up with one single shred of proof (besides some company history) to prove your point.

NEXT!

So orielly is dumping valvoline vr 1 full synthetic at $3.95 a quart because they are not going to carry it anymore. Is valvoline discontinuing it? I have always run the regular vr1 but never the full synthetic. I want to try it and bought all I could find but it looks like we may not be able to find it anymore in the future.

So, apparently you believe that the drag race example is bull because you say they do not buy off the shelf product. Maybe you should get the Miss Gieco guys involved. They are now sponsored by Royal Purple. Find out if their product is some secret stuff sent to them exclusively in unmarked containers or if they in fact can just go to Auto Zone. Of course I know I will be sorry for this post. By the way "my oil" did not do that bad in whatever that test was/is. Didn't one of them come in 7th?

orielly,s is discontinuing it because at 9 bucks a quart they dont sell much of it.most people,including myself wont pay 9 bucks a quart for any oil.

if you think what is good for a 7 second dragrace is what we should be useing in your 1000+marine engine that runs for hours at a time you are mistaken.benny,just for the record,what power do you have in your boat?

My story was not to prove a point. Mild asked what I used and why. I answered what I used and the company history is part of why. On my earlier post I said the test was misleading and unfair to ALL oils. If you believe that statement is wrong, negative, arguementive so be it. Simply put you believe some random numbers, that I certainly have no idea where they come from, to be fact. But, real world results are according to you dillusional.

Come on you said you were a drag racer. Do you believe what you just said? 7 seconds, 7 hours, who cares. The point was about film strength. Seriously we are going no where.

ok, so a NHRA team who qualifies first, is sponsored by Royal purple. Forget the oil lab analysis', technical data, and how the oil actually performs. Im switching to Royal Purple!! Maybe this year I can be first place in the poker run!

I place no trust in anything related to nascar, nhra, or any kind of sponsored sport. Theres more politics in that than in Chicago's city hall.

Did I mention Burger King has the BEST burgers??? Its all I eat. Here's why.

Sadly, this really has turned ugly and has gone no where. The race example was just that. An example of real world performance. Something I felt you could actually look at and say gee that stuff works pretty good. No where in my previous posts did I mention any particular oil brand. I thought I had a legit question to the fairness of the almighty chart. And as I said to ICDEDPPL in post 63 you asked me what I ran and why. I answered your freakin' question. I did not promote any oil. Now you are beating me up for giving you an honest answer.

No point in beating a dead horse. Ben, you like royal purple, that's what you prefer, and nothing wrong with that. You've stated your reasons for running it, and maybe it will help someone who's considering running royal purple.

Lets move on and get back on track. There was some good info posted up regarding oils, pressure issues, and so on.

Nice.......does this mean you love me now?

Yes, I might even throw a quart of the purple oil in my in my pressure washer and see if I can get a few extra psi out of that b*&ch :evilb:

This old cat once told me "...if you're bad about your oil change frequency use synthetic because it lasts longer. If you're good about your frequency stick to the Dino oils and the mfr suggested weights..."

Makes sense to me. Todays oils are leaps and bounds better than the oils pre 1990's. Regardless of weights they last much longer, manaufactuers are suggesting much longer oil change intervals as a result, for instance no longer every 3k miles...but now 7-10k and in some cases even more. WTF?! Now whether us old cats will ever trust those recommendations because we've been conditioned otherwise or not is another debate. Certainly I don't, BUT it illustrates there is a difference in today's manufacturing of oil compared to yester-year mainly to reduce consumption of said oils from excessive oil change intervals.

Moral of the story....stick to the manufacturer's suggested weights, and be good about your change intervals and use quality filters....that fellow sirs, is where the anchor lies....:daz:

I agree. Not only the oil formulations, but generally, todays production engines run so much cleaner. Just about any modern day vehicle, you can pull a set of plugs at 75k miles, and they look good. Unlike the cars of yesteryear, you were nuts if you tried getting 75k miles out of a set of plugs in a 1970 impala! The oil nowadays isn't getting diluted and contaminated with gasoline, combustion deposits, etc.

Although, my blown carb'd boat engines aren't exactly new technology. They still fall under the "must change frequently" rule because of contamination. :bunnydance:

Excellent idea. Hey it was fun. Killed some time. Have a safe and fun season.

Joe,
Can you tell me what Oil I should run in my 300's? The current oil I run seems to smoke some
at cold start up. I need an oil that likes to run at high rpm's :)

They don't run on Vodka Redbull??

Yes they do

Anyone running this? Found it on Amazon a seems like a really good price at about $5 per court.

http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV21.../dp/B000CCIFQM

Lots of guys run the VR1 dino oil. Its good stuff.

A couple weeks ago autozone had Kendall GT 20w50 on sale for 3 bucks a quart. Teague sells it for 4.59, which is still a good price. MY buddy bought a few cases from autozone. My zip code is showing 3.49 a qt now

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search

I don't post much....but that was funny.

Okay, I just read this whole thread! Yikes!

So simple question, what is the best oil for our marine engines?

I know this is an older thread but I was researching oils for my Formula 382 fastech w/ 600 sci motors. Where did you find the load carrying capacity/film strength for those oils? I was planning on running Valvoline VR1 20w50 since thats what i already run in my big block nitrous drag race motors but did not see that specific oil in your film strength rankings on page 1 of this thread. Can you point me in the direction of some current info or atleast the load carrying capacity/film strength of Valvoline VR1 20w50 conventional race oil (silver)

Thanks,
Southernhick