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silent choice switch off= closed. how to switch off= open??
Easy enough?? My silent choice is off closed which I rarely would close..
Thus don't want to have to leave on all the time. How do I switch?? Its been storming so I can't go look, but can I adjust,spin the solenoid on the diverter?? Hopefully the weather breaks for Sunday to finally take her out!! |
Is your silent choice air pressure controlled ,or electrical ?
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Good question.. I believe its electrical. Plenty wires and don't recall any air hoses..
Didn't realize they made air actuaters. |
Should be able to just switch the two wires on the switch. Without looking at a wiring diagram I pretty sure they are fail safe which means if power is removed they open. By switching the wires on the switch you would be cutting power until you switch it to the other position.
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Originally Posted by Questofpower
(Post 3923315)
Should be able to just switch the two wires on the switch. Without looking at a wiring diagram I pretty sure they are fail safe which means if power is removed they open. By switching the wires on the switch you would be cutting power until you switch it to the other position.
I would assume it applies power to actuate the solenoid. Otherwise, you have a constant draw on the batteries. |
The actuators are spring-loaded in one direction (either "in" or "out"), and pull a lot of current to move away from that default position. Once they move, the current is reduced to a "hold" level.
You'll have to modify the linkage back at the actuator itself and rotate the actual flap relative to the actuator arm so that it is open when there is no power, and closed when the switch on. You might be able to accomplish the same thing by re-locating the actuator relative to the pipe. Reversing the power and feed wires at the switch won't do a thing. The other option is to contact the manufacturer and see if they have actuators that are opposite to what you have. Odd setup. Most of the systems that I have seen let the exhaust flow straight-through in the absence of power ("off"). |
C-spray is right if they are spring loaded switching the wires won't do anything, I guess I am thinking of mine, I have never seen a spring, but I also have not looked that close at them as well, it makes sense there is a spring in there. I was recalling my past electrical experience, yes if you are drawing power to open then yes you would have power going all the time in the on position, (switching the wires) I guess I kinda of mis understood what you were trying to do. But I think I understand now, you want leave them open and have no power draw. You are going to have to do what C-spray is saying. Sorry for the confusion.
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-solenoids/=mpdjz2
Sealed Linear Solenoids. Pick one that will fit and operate the direction you want and 'continuous' duty My boat has the Corsa setup. Whenever the motors are off, the power is removed from the solenoids. Otherwise you'd have a constant draw on your battery when the boat is not in use, if the exhaust was left in the open mode. |
Thanks for the input guys.. more complicated than I thought.
Once it dries up and I can get in there and take a look, I will update!! If it requires different actuators.. may just use my finger and try to remember to turn off when we beach or raft up :-( Update to come!! |
update + /-
Well, I guess the scotchguard I put on the tops worked.. dry already even with all the rain.
So good and bad!! As i was checking out how the actuators work, found the sb outer actuator was not bolted down!! So it was staying closed when i ran it last weekend which could explain why I was off about 1-200 rpms on that motor and why I could only pull 64-5 out of her!! Ran 68 when I seatrialed her the weekend before with 3 guys instead of me and wify. The bad news is it actually uses a electromagnet to draw in the cylinder and it looks like the lever is pressed onto the shaft or is 1 piece so i don't see how I can adjust without buying parts.. Corsa website says it supposed to be off/open so I don't know what happened. Does anyone have any pics of their setup so i can see if mine was setup differently when they put the new motors back in??? Thanks |
I had over 50 sets of the diverters from Baja at 1 time and 3 of the sets had the flap closed with no power to solenoids. They were built opposite of the others and I could not change them without cutting off, relocating the solenoid bracket and re-clocking the flap arms so I did not touch them and sold them as closed with switch off systems.
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Originally Posted by nailit
(Post 3923421)
Well, I guess the scotchguard I put on the tops worked.. dry already even with all the rain.
So good and bad!! As i was checking out how the actuators work, found the sb outer actuator was not bolted down!! So it was staying closed when i ran it last weekend which could explain why I was off about 1-200 rpms on that motor and why I could only pull 64-5 out of her!! Ran 68 when I seatrialed her the weekend before with 3 guys instead of me and wify. The bad news is it actually uses a electromagnet to draw in the cylinder and it looks like the lever is pressed onto the shaft or is 1 piece so i don't see how I can adjust without buying parts.. Corsa website says it supposed to be off/open so I don't know what happened. Does anyone have any pics of their setup so i can see if mine was setup differently when they put the new motors back in??? Thanks |
Originally Posted by rumrunner29
(Post 3923440)
I can't take picture of mine cause its raining, but mine are set up exactly like yours on my 1998 29 Outlaw.... switch has to be ON for the exhaust to be open...
Well at least I found the actualtor that has vibrated loose.. :whistle: |
Before going to alot of trouble, verify that power to the solenoids is removed when the key is turned off, regardless of how they are switched with power applied. I'd be really surprised that there is 12v to them with the key off.
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 3923635)
Before going to alot of trouble, verify that power to the solenoids is removed when the key is turned off, regardless of how they are switched with power applied. I'd be really surprised that there is 12v to them with the key off.
But, I was thinking about pulling power from the ign on side of the switch! Then when you turn that key off, it would kill power to that switch?? Question is... would be draw too much off that switch? |
Ours are different there.....mine do not work with the key off.....when I turn off the key to the starboard engine, both diverters shut....
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As Brian said Corsa originally made there systems to be Off/closed to Off/open at some point after the 2000 model year. The power should come from the ignition and not direct from the battery. The only thing direct to the battery switch should be the auto bilge float.
If I remember correct the reason they switched to Off/open was for HP500+ power that cannot be restricted thru the hub at higher RPM's. Meaning the system will only power (closed) at lower RPM and stay, or open at higher R's and not restrict the engine exhaust. Bottom line is give Corsa a call, but it will probably cost you to convert it. XT |
I can relate to this on my last boat, 91 260. With exhaust switch on, and key off, power to exhaust still energized keeping them open. I would have to remember to turn the exhaust switch off when stopped. I did burn up a solenoid once by forgetting to do this. Noticed smoke coming from side vents and thought engine was on fire. Ended up unhooking them and just wiring them open all the time for a couple of years until I called Corsa and ordered replacements.
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Originally Posted by XT-Innovator
(Post 3923667)
As Brian said Corsa originally made there systems to be Off/closed to Off/open at some point after the 2000 model year. The power should come from the ignition and not direct from the battery. The only thing direct to the battery switch should be the auto bilge float.
If I remember correct the reason they switched to Off/open was for HP500+ power that cannot be restricted thru the hub at higher RPM's. Meaning the system will only power (closed) at lower RPM and stay, or open at higher R's and not restrict the engine exhaust. Bottom line is give Corsa a call, but it will probably cost you to convert it. XT It was weird b/c the rest of the dash is by the ignition on sb side. Thanks!!!! |
So if you were to leave them switched I guess we would call it on (thru hull) then leave for say a day or maybe even overnight your battery just might be dead when you get back. Now if the boat happens to be in the water and has even a small leak your boat is gonna sink. You really do need to tie that into the key so that can't happen to you. Like was said be for you need to be sure that they really are powered to switch to thru hull.
Oh yea good luck !!! |
Originally Posted by nailit
(Post 3923421)
Well, I guess the scotchguard I put on the tops worked.. dry already even with all the rain.
So good and bad!! As i was checking out how the actuators work, found the sb outer actuator was not bolted down!! So it was staying closed when i ran it last weekend which could explain why I was off about 1-200 rpms on that motor and why I could only pull 64-5 out of her!! Ran 68 when I seatrialed her the weekend before with 3 guys instead of me and wify. The bad news is it actually uses a electromagnet to draw in the cylinder and it looks like the lever is pressed onto the shaft or is 1 piece so i don't see how I can adjust without buying parts.. Corsa website says it supposed to be off/open so I don't know what happened. Does anyone have any pics of their setup so i can see if mine was setup differently when they put the new motors back in??? Thanks Just as an update!! I jumped a wire from the S key.. although this worked.. my voltage falls from 12 to 8 while not running and at 12 while running and the other is at 14v. I will be headed to Autozone to pick up a relay so I can wire this up correctly. It had a fuse for the exhaust on the panel, so I will use a relay off the key and let it grab power back from the fused panel!! other than that, boat ran great!! love having new motors!! I should have only about 14 hours on each now!! :bunnydance: UPDATE: bought relay from AZ.. took 20 mins to install, works like a charm!! |
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