Headers!
#11
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RonS you might be on to something If you cut the fiberglass and maybe angel the tips a bit. But the elbow is'nt going to fit under the hach.
I think your may right on the dyr pipes
Or a custom set of headers?
You may be in a pickel
I think your may right on the dyr pipes
Or a custom set of headers?
You may be in a pickel
#12
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If you look closely at the first pic you'll see a ledge just below the tips. The two hull halves are right in this area. The ledge is the thickness change between the two halves. The hull where the tips are is about 1/8" thick. Lightning wanted to run a dry pipe through. However I need to get down to 85db per state law. There is no way dry pipes will get even close to that.
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Someone else mentioned about cutting the fiberglass
this seems like a do ableway.
Cord, you mentioned the hull split on the shelf. How about looking into having hte current hole location angled?
Using the current hole and enlarging it at an angle. I this picture I put a circle, kinda crudly, if you can picture the tips angled upward towards the etop. This would still have a custom bend but not as sharp
If those are Teague tips, looks like them, then can reweld the flanges at an angle needed. I know because they had to do that with my tips on my cat.
Just an idea maybe over looked, maybe lready thought of and not wanted to do.
this seems like a do ableway.
Cord, you mentioned the hull split on the shelf. How about looking into having hte current hole location angled?
Using the current hole and enlarging it at an angle. I this picture I put a circle, kinda crudly, if you can picture the tips angled upward towards the etop. This would still have a custom bend but not as sharp
If those are Teague tips, looks like them, then can reweld the flanges at an angle needed. I know because they had to do that with my tips on my cat.
Just an idea maybe over looked, maybe lready thought of and not wanted to do.
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#17
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Cord/a thought. With KE's pipe you can do a wedge between the tailpipe and header to increase the downward angle. KE's header wnds up about even with the valve covers, which is where the tp bolts on. KE could have one of the guys mill down a pair of wedges.
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The angles of the tail pipes doesn't help the lightning headers. Their problem is that using his stock runners, the angles for the tails would be excessive. I have jay looking at how the 3" rise header would work, but he's thinking that it will actually pass through the top deck vertically before bending to meet the tip.
My feeling right now is that I'd hate to go back and cut the mufflers apart. Having to redo your work sure gets old fast.
Bob-on the Eickerts, are the tail pipes double or single wall? A single wall pipe would meet up with the tip alot easier, or I could even run a silicon hose. Anybody know the dimensions of these?
My feeling right now is that I'd hate to go back and cut the mufflers apart. Having to redo your work sure gets old fast.
Bob-on the Eickerts, are the tail pipes double or single wall? A single wall pipe would meet up with the tip alot easier, or I could even run a silicon hose. Anybody know the dimensions of these?
#19
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Cord
A dumb question ...but I assume you asked the boat manuf what they normally do?? Yours cant be the first boat with this setup.
Ive seen lots of similar situations to yours with smaller daycruisers. The only thing that worked was to fab up S pipes to get down to the tips. Sharp bends and some welding..but they worked. Cutting a little off the transom like MNfastboat drew would help too I think.
Dan
A dumb question ...but I assume you asked the boat manuf what they normally do?? Yours cant be the first boat with this setup.
Ive seen lots of similar situations to yours with smaller daycruisers. The only thing that worked was to fab up S pipes to get down to the tips. Sharp bends and some welding..but they worked. Cutting a little off the transom like MNfastboat drew would help too I think.
Dan
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Actually, I have asked the mfr. The first boats that they produced had these high tips. After the first couple they started putting the tips below the rub rail. This was done in part due to the plumbing problems and because people didn't like the rectangular flanges that were required.
The rear deck is going to be but. That much I know. I was hoping I could keep the cut to being 2" deep or about half the current height. If I go much deeper I'm really going to start loosing strenght. I have a pic of another boat with CMI's and they cut about that deep. However, that boat clearly has a lower x-dim.
The rear deck is going to be but. That much I know. I was hoping I could keep the cut to being 2" deep or about half the current height. If I go much deeper I'm really going to start loosing strenght. I have a pic of another boat with CMI's and they cut about that deep. However, that boat clearly has a lower x-dim.