Bennett Trim Tabs vs Atlantic Ocean
 

Atlantic Ocean 1..Bennett Trim Tab 0

[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps07c34609.jpg[/IMG]

I encountered a bit of rough stuff in Palm Beach Inlet Sunday but only running 3-4' out side. Ran about 55-60 to Boynton Inlet and back and this is what I saw when I pulled my 255 out of the water.

This was a 12" x 16" Sport Tab...Bennett wants $257 for a replacement...My metal guy can duplicate it for $100.

Ain't the tab's fault. It was poorly installed. (Think 5200).

Gee...I missed the requirement of 5200 in the instructions. Been running them for 35 years with out it...this is the first time I ever saw this happen.

I guess the ocean is rougher than it used to be...

It happened to me - the ram let go and it looks like the tab took a beating until it fell off. Now my screws didn't rip out - but my sport tabs have two rows of screws - I only see one there?

+100

If staying with the Bennett Trim Tabs design; go with the mounting plate for the ST-16 vs. the ST-12. It has two rows of screws vs. just the one, and the bottom row of holes lines up with the screw holes of the ST-12.

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If you read the fine print, Bennett Trim Tabs are only designed for 45mph or less.

Regardless, Bennett sets the standard for customer service in this industry; specifically I've talked to M.J. in the past with fantastic results.

Bennett's are poorly made IMOA. Switch to Lenco or something else. I had nothing but problems with my Bennett's then switched to Lenco and never had a problem again.

In summary...I'm not attacking anyone...just reporting a fact of occurrence that happened to me. At the end of the day I am responsible for what ever the fix is.

I thought it was unusual enough to share.

When I do repair it I will take extra measures to prevent a re-occurrence. FYI...the port side is not damaged at all.

It looks like the screws pulled out. The holes could of been drilled too large for the 1/4screws to get a good bite into the wood. Check for rot and reglass the holes and drill new 1's.

sprink58

Can you post a photo of the other side please? Port monster is correct on an ST16 there are two rows of holes on the mounting plates. There are also two actuators (rams) per Tab on an ST16. I quoted you the list price for an ST16 replacement Trim Plane Assembly, which is black powder coated. A dealer would likely sell it for less.

But I really don't think that this was an ST16. If I see the other side I may be able to tell you what it was.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Give me a break. These are offshore tabs - thru bolted!

LOL! Years ago I ripped them off at the hinges on my Checkmate. Not made for rough water I guess...

It really depends on the type of boat and speed! Bennett makes different types of Trim Tabs for just about any type, and speed, of boat.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...psec4ef8d6.jpg
Our high performance series.

Tom
Bennett Marine

I found this post when looking for Trim Tab threads here
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...port-tabs.html

It appears that sprink58 purchased a used set of ST16s and installed them using the old mounting plates from the 12 x 12 tabs on his boat, they only have one row of screws instead of the two that the ST16s have. Also it looks like he used the single actuator (ram) that was there for the 12 x12 and not the dual actuators that the ST16 is designed to use.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...s-100_0110.jpg

The added chord (fore to aft length) of the ST16 does put more strain on it than the 12 x 12 and that's why we use the larger mounting plates and dual actuators. It is no wonder it failed and I would suggest that the other side will also fail unless it is installed properly.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

^^^^ o-snap! :party-smiley-004:

Whoops

With all due respect, buy some real offshore k planes. Those sheetmetal tabs are for fishing boats. :angry-smiley-038:

What is that angle iron piece on the transom? BTW I run oversized k plane type tabs using Bennett dual rams and pump with no issues

its nice to see somebody has some brains........k-planes.its a reason they put them on real offshore boats.

I have the same type of tabs in my cruiser. Most of the screws were loose because water got behind them and rotted the wood they screwed into. I welded a 3/16 SS plate to the hinge and then bolted them with bolts. This of course after replacing the transom from rot. Holes were drilled, coated with several coats of resin, then the bolts were sealed with 5200. Will never leak nor come loose. Seen slot of boats that use the wood screw mounting install. And without fail, can always find at least 1 of those screws loose and allowing water to soak in.

It's a good idea to use 5200 to mount the whole mount, Not just around the screws. It bonds so well it will take the stress away from the screws. When a tab mounted with 5200 comes off it takes the Gelcoat with it. You could probably do 4200 if you wanted, but theres no better bond than 5200, And it'll dry under water if needed.

Oh I hear you on the 5200. I have a little 20' Kevlar Flats boat that I use in the back country and keys because it only draws 12" when I tilt the motor up (150 Horse Mercury) I have a pole stand that is over the top of the power head that I stand on to pole the boat in the shallows. I bolted the bracket thru the transom with 6: 3/8" stainless bolts and fender washers. The bracket sits in a bed of 5200. After a few months I decided to take the stand off to mount another one....I removed the bolts and the stand wouldn't budge. I stood on he stand to try and break it loose and it would not budge. I tied a line to my Escalade attached to the stand with the hitch of the trailer hooked up to an F-250 Pick up and gently pulled with the AWD Escalade until all 4 wheels started slipping on a slick concrete floor. At that point I decided to leave the stand alone. I am a believer in the merits of 5200 and it's holding strength.

When I installed the new Transom Assemblies for my Bravo Drives I used 5200 to seal the T/A's to the transom...I sure hope I never have to remove them!!

I agree that if I use 5200 to seal the hinges on this install I shouldn't have any issues with with the hinge set coming off the transom!!

I will install a replacement tab with the double row hinge plate on both sides and utilize 5200 to bed the both hinge plates. Surely this will work out.

I honestly think that this damage occurred when I came down hard off of a rouge wave while running off shore. The Ocean won that round. This post seems to have stirred up some controversy about the merits of one system of tabs vs another. That was never my intent with my initial post...I thought it was an interesting and unusual circumstance that occurred for what ever reason. Nothing more...nothing less.

I would use some in the screw holes...make sure that wood stays dry

Curious why you are running 2 RH props?

I get that a lot.

My original Morse control won't provide enough throw to move the port drive lever in reverse rotation.

Installing Kiekhiefer zero effort to correct this issue very soon. It is a bastard to handle around the dock and a bit squirly at speed...I have only had it together 2-3 months and wanted to run it until I got what I needed.

Sprink I would recommend temporarily putting a lh prop on the port outdrive during any future photo shoots of the transom. You seemed to get asked that a lot lol.

yeah its the tabs fault, and btw that brownie dude don't know jack. lol

Jack Daniels??????? ;)

280 k plates on cl boston. ...$200

Scarab63 wins the chicken dinner . If you are going to play hard in the ocean put the 280 plates on , they are stronger and more importantly they are thru bolted thru the transom . And yes install with 5200.
RG.

I know jack s**t........

Ah, The Other Brother....:)

You can say that again!!!