Offshoreonly.com - Tyson Garvin's 12 Rotor

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SS930 (Post 4091808)

I obviously can't speak about this design, but the rotaries in general are known to be very reliable, although the apex seals tend to be problematic. Unfortunately, to change the apex seals typically means tearing most of the engine down to replace them.... so this would be my question, how difficult is it to swap the apex seals on this design?

We designed the engine to be able to spread apart at each layer of rotors just incase there was only one rotor that had bad tip seals.

The tip seals get a bad reputation from the cheep stock seals that break when you do not run them hard. The company that makes the seals that are in my engine say they have never had one break. They are the seals in the fastest rotaries in the world. When we dyno'ed the engine the carb would not flow enough fuel so we leaned the engine out to the point that it would shut off and then we accidentally turned the wrong knob on the ignition box and had the timing at 72 degrees. So in other words we had more detonation then it should ever see and we did not break any tip seals. Now it will just be a matter of how many hours they will last before they wear down.

Worn apex seals/tips was what I was referring to. Assuming they lasted 125 hrs, how much of a job/expense would it be on your engine to replace them all?

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS930 (Post 4091867)

Worn apex seals/tips was what I was referring to. Assuming they lasted 125 hrs, how much of a job/expense would it be on your engine to replace them all?

The tip seals would cost around $ 2k should be able to replace them all in one day.

Tyson -Any updates you can share? How is the R12 on 4 wheels project going?

I finally finished the 24 -2200 cc injectors, 24 coils, and computer wiring now trying to get a custom starter built. I was running the starters at 24 volts to get enough power to turn it over and burnt them up. Hopefully have a starter in a few weeks and start working on it again.

Im having a big electric starter made for it but still trying to find a air starter in the 10hp range that will fit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigyellowcat (Post 4091109)

Here is a video of the engine on the dyno for the first test runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qcgg7w6TFQc&feature=share&list=UUpQxdg--kJ3GFNiXn66vO_A

Great job on the video, Trystan should be the on screen assistant in the next video.

What is the expected dressed engine wait on the base and turbo packages?

What does the parts list look like for the 400/200hr rebuilds? Assuming no mechanical failure just time to refresh the base 1,400hp package.

Thanks,
Rick

The engine weighs around 830 lbs

The only parts in the engine that would be replaced during a rebuild or breakage are the tip seals. When I raced rotarys and put lots of boost and nitrous I never broke anything but the tip seals. And when they would break they would go out the exhaust pipe and the engine would keep running with a little less power and I would drive the car home.

I'll just put this right here... Unreal Great watch.
I've always been intrigued with this build. Finally some movement.

Kid must know his sh!t, that's a channel to keep an eye on. The tech's gonna be givin nasa a run for it's money.

I really hope he stays with the intended usage and sticks it in a boat.