Wiggled the HPF wire going to the switch and it kicked on. I tried turning it on before I touched anything and it clicked as if it was turning on then a quick click off and the flashed HPF. I got to go with RT on this and say its either the switch or the wiring. Does tha switch send a ground back to the panel shutting off or does the circuit open.

Couldn't find anything on ocean marine is ocean breeze marine the same thing?

I lost a wheel bearing last Sunday on the way home. took the tire off, chained the axel up and limped home on three.
Going to tear into it this afternoon.

Sucks for sure, I'm keeping all new spare parts with me at all times. Should just by a all in one hub, only problem with that is I have 2 axles with brakes and 1 without, and the hubs aren't the same.

Back to the AC unit I found this for sale on ebay, it may be my only solution unless these switches are universal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boaters-Resa...ec87c0&vxp=mtr

when ever i build a trailer i use dexter axles and spec them with ez lube spindles the spindle is drilled all the way to the area between the inner seal and the inner bearing so when you pump it with grease it has to go from the inner bearing and come all the way through the outer bearing the entire is filled with grease they use a double inner seal so the grease does not come out on your brakes i have been doing this for 25 years and have had good luck this way

The new boat has bearing buddies. The SCARAB had the EZ lube axels like weldcrane described. Much better setup. You can repack the wheel in about 5 minutes without taking anything apart.

Is the board bad in the control box?

I don't think so. There is a light that comes on when it kicks on and off. Gonna dunk the boat tomorrow ill know more then.

Same issue. Still flashes HPF as soon as its on. Compressor nor pump will do any thing. I tried unplugging the switch for the high and low switches on the circuit board but still flashes. I'm guessing I'll need to short the lead out to by pass it?

Dam you guys.... Now your going to make me check my bearing buddies when I get home tonight. :)

MY one bad bearing turned into a bad drop spindle that is no longer available. So I then needed to replace both axels since the wheel height will be an issue if I replace only one axel. I then planed to replace both square axels with new round axels and electric brake system. That changed when I told them the surge coupler was welded to the frame of the trailer. So the two new axels and electric brakes on two axels at $1150 went to two axels with hydraulic brakes on both at $1500 +, And the trailer still needs new fenders ( beat up ), sand blasting and repainting.
Had a change of mind and just said SCREW it and ordered a new Manning all aluminum trailer with electric brakes on both axels. Oh and they are going to do a temporary repair on the old axel so I can go boating the next 4 weekends until I get the new trailer.
SO my simple weld a new round spindle to my existing axel turned into a new $6000 tricked out trailer. I can't wait to see it under the boat. Should make it really stand out. Wheels should look hot.

yep, just did all 3 axles on my Myco with the EZ Lube hubs, great idea, no place for water to get in, I had my fair share of issues, the most recent was wrong inner seals....all fixed now...

This is a lesson to check your springs/spindle for wear where the axles meet them or where they are attached to the trailer. When they become loose or worn and when you are moving, they are shifting the angles of the axles, thus putting stress on the bearings and creating the problem.

Miss- alignment can take out bearings in a heartbeat.

The oil seals I got through napa were different then e trailer. The napa ones cost me about 22 a piece and the e trailer around 10 bucks. Not sure what the difference is but the spindle diameter is 2.250. Since these spindles have the grease fitting right on the ends I'm going to pump them full before I head up north in a few weeks. And try to only make wide turns.

As far as my AC goes I shorted out the leads to the HPF and the AC unit fired up. So Im going to get a new switch today and ask if I need to have a professional install if. Then take to the lake install my Y bow stop and make sure I got good water flow.

I made up a trailer box for my trailers. I have 1 extra hub w/bearings made up for a quick change. a couple of springs, jack and grease. Since I pull a number of different trailers, I have it packed with different size bearings. Damn thing weighs about 100 lbs though, but I'll rather have it and not need it. I've even stopped and given people bearings on the side of the road.

I certainly hope you've solved your issues. I know exactly what you're going through. I've gone decent stretches without issues, but I have my hubs apart every year and typically replace bearings while I'm in there.

In my case, my 3 trailer axles combined rated for just enough to carry my boat. 3x 3500lb= 10,500lb - torsion axles. If you read into the specifications of the major axle brands (including dexter), triple torsions are not recommended.
For example:
-www.Dexteraxle.com: " CAUTION: Triple axle assemblies are NOT recommended for Torflex axles" This is specified on every page of their marine catalog showing their torsion axle combinations in the marine catalog.

In other catalogs, I've read that the triple axle application needs to have a 30%+ safety factor built in. In other words, I should be using 3x 5000 = 15,000 axles. There are a few reasons, the main one is on uneven surfaces, there is no link between axles (like a leaf spring) to span the load between axles... Not uncommon for one tire to dangle when going up a boat launch ramp. The bigger issue I've noticed is turning a triple torsion axle on a typical wide right turn. Not sure if you've ever watched your axles (specifically the back one) buckle when making a turn - a scary sight. Puts tons of pressure on the bearings in the thrust direction. The trailer basically pivots and side-scrubs the front and rear tires, I take the widest turns possible, exaggerating my turns when I can... they hold up well enough - but not an ideal situation.

Axles are not terribly expensive. Have you looked into swapping to the bigger axles?

Sydwayz, Yes - I believe that's ultimately my solution - just a little fearful of getting torsion axles again - especially when the axle vendors are stating not to use them for triples... Mine is a South Florida Trailer. The trailer frame is very much up to the task for the boat.

On the higher end trailers you typically see (Myco or similar), are triple axle torsion systems most common with the 33/37 Active Thunders? I like torsion due to the lower ride height and they're quiet and simple. I just know from experience the bigger 5000 lb axle is an absolute must.

My McClain (I-beam bolt) and Myco (aluminum welded) both have triple torsion. It's the norm for modern trailers; albeit there are plenty of leaf spring trailers out there: one normally only sees them on steel trailers.

There are at least three - 33AT's that I know of on TANDEM torsion welded aluminum trailers; built by both Myco and Manning. But I don't know how that would work on an I-beam bolted trailer.

I went through the mess with two bent axles on my 26' Sonic (tandem trailer) years ago. It was a Rocket trailer; a total POS. Total load was 7280 lbs. and it had twin 3500 lbs. axles. I ended up replacing both axles with 3500 lbs. axles again, but was very careful when I towed; and diligent about maintenance. I also made every effort to ensure they axles were aligned well. After I rebuilt the trailer, I sold the boat and it made the trek from VA to MT with no issues, and is still fine to this day AFAIK.

How far are you from Manning?
http://www.manningmarine.com/

I'd have him take a look at your setup if convenient. He may have some suggestions/options.


Also: http://www.phoenixtrail.com/ appears to be in East Jordan, Michigan. They build a lot of Sunsation trailers.

Finally done with my trailer. All greased up and ready to go. I'm planning on heading up to Erie this weekend so that will be a nice 90 mile trip to break them in.

Got the new AC high pressure switch installed and that's working now also. Next on the list is to remove to old tube TV and add a flat screen, change motor oil, and if I have time the stereo too. Need to be able to hook up my iPod :evilb:

Thanks Sydwayz! Very helpful... sounds like you've gone through a lot of this.

I didn't realize Manning was closeby (20 minutes from home). I will give them a call. Definitely makes sense to buy axles from a company that gets them by the truckload.

Did most of the 33AT's go triple axle then? I am definitely a fan of tandems due to reduced tire wear. Triples just seem to hate tight turns (or any right turn for that matter).

Most boats at 33 feet or so are on triple axle trailers. But, you can adequately source tandem axles that would handle such a load.

I had tandem myco on my formula 311 and loved it. 6k pound axles with 8 lug hubs. I knew guys with 292s and 303s with triple axle. I would love to get a nice myco steel under my Donzi. Loading is a pita right now. I added to 8 foot 2X6s and that still isn't enough. Adding a Y bow stop as we speak to take the load off that rubber roller, then probably add more bunks in rear to help it seat when I pull it out of the water.

Towed up to Erie Sunday without a problem:thankyouthankyou: towed back without a problem:thankyouthankyou: boat ran good had a great time ate some good food love it up there. Didn't want to come home and probably waited to long to leave we were chasing a storm back to the launch. Made it back as the wind picked up had to wait out some heavy stuff but it was definitely interesting.

And go figure it turned

Just trying to be cool like me :party-smiley-004:

I thought of you when I couldn't figure out how to flip it.

Oh and as for the AC, I bought a new pressure switch and the unit fired up at home, took it to the lake and it ran for about 5 mins then went right back to HPF, pulled the water line near the unit dry as a bone. Motors were to hot to get near the strainer so after about a hour of just hanging out I fired it up again ran out to check water flow, it squirted a few drops and then BAM, water flow AC ran fine all night, must needed to prime the line first.

I buy the inline check valve that prevents the water in the cooling line from reversing through the sea cock when I lift out......lift or trailer. It's cheap, plastic and functional. When I drop in, ac is good to go......stopped all those HPF messages!

I don't even have a T valve just a shut off valve right at the hull. I will probably just run some water down the exit for starters.

Good idea