water pressure??????
08-25-2002, 12:54 PM
#11
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Candyman, that sounds like an interesting valve. I was wondering if it was possible for contamination to cause the valve to stick open after a pressure spike and then the water pressure could go to zero or at least very low? Just curious if it is a "fail safe" solution.
08-25-2002, 09:01 PM
#12
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WETTE VETTE,
I'm sure a large particle could hold the valve open. I don't think it could be held open enough to get zero water pressure. The rush of water I think will keep the valve clean and free of debris. It is a very simple design. I should have taken some pictures before installing it.
Dan
I'm sure a large particle could hold the valve open. I don't think it could be held open enough to get zero water pressure. The rush of water I think will keep the valve clean and free of debris. It is a very simple design. I should have taken some pictures before installing it.
Dan
08-25-2002, 09:09 PM
#13
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Jdnca1 and Wette Vette,
I have the same flow control valve Wette Vette suggested and have installed it after the stock Mercruiser oil cooler and before the Stainless Marine crossover. I use a custom fabricated Tee for the valve installation. It dumps over board.
My crossover has a bypass that goes to the T-stat housing.
What T-stat are you running and how many holes and what size holes are in it ,if any?
Does your crossover have a bypass?
I have been concerned about having enough flow to my exhaust while the T-stat is closed, therefore I use the bypass to address that concern.
I have experimented with a 1/8" orifice in the bypass all the way up to a 3/8" orifice, increasing at 1/16" steps. The bypass orifice is a 1/2" pipe plug shoved up in the rubber hose of the bypass.
The T-sat I was using for my testing is a 142 degree high flow T-stat purchased from CP Performance. It has two holes drilled in it that are .135" in diameter. I think it needs to have those holes enlarged to 3/16" and maybe two more of the same 3/16" size drilled in there also ( 4 total).
I was having over pressure problems with the setup. Had the flow control valve all the way open, T-stat installed (2 holes) and using a 1/4" orifice in the bypass. Temp was good.
I went to the 3/8" orifice and the pressure came down but the engine would overheat. I think due the water taking the "path of least resistance" which would be thru the bypass. Water was basically stalled in the motor. I backed down to a 5/16" bypass orifice but the engine would still overheat but not as fast.
My engine is a stroked 496" Gen IV (454), B&M 250, intercooled (Superchiller), witha single 1050 Dominator. Everyone I have spoke with tells me that nobody uses T-Stats in Blower applications. I now am setup with the bypass plugged off and a 5/8" restricter ( no T-stat) and no water pressure problems, but no temp( maybe 130 degrees).
Looking for suggestions and what you guys are running.
Thanks for any replies, Russ Withiam
I have the same flow control valve Wette Vette suggested and have installed it after the stock Mercruiser oil cooler and before the Stainless Marine crossover. I use a custom fabricated Tee for the valve installation. It dumps over board.
My crossover has a bypass that goes to the T-stat housing.
What T-stat are you running and how many holes and what size holes are in it ,if any?
Does your crossover have a bypass?
I have been concerned about having enough flow to my exhaust while the T-stat is closed, therefore I use the bypass to address that concern.
I have experimented with a 1/8" orifice in the bypass all the way up to a 3/8" orifice, increasing at 1/16" steps. The bypass orifice is a 1/2" pipe plug shoved up in the rubber hose of the bypass.
The T-sat I was using for my testing is a 142 degree high flow T-stat purchased from CP Performance. It has two holes drilled in it that are .135" in diameter. I think it needs to have those holes enlarged to 3/16" and maybe two more of the same 3/16" size drilled in there also ( 4 total).
I was having over pressure problems with the setup. Had the flow control valve all the way open, T-stat installed (2 holes) and using a 1/4" orifice in the bypass. Temp was good.
I went to the 3/8" orifice and the pressure came down but the engine would overheat. I think due the water taking the "path of least resistance" which would be thru the bypass. Water was basically stalled in the motor. I backed down to a 5/16" bypass orifice but the engine would still overheat but not as fast.
My engine is a stroked 496" Gen IV (454), B&M 250, intercooled (Superchiller), witha single 1050 Dominator. Everyone I have spoke with tells me that nobody uses T-Stats in Blower applications. I now am setup with the bypass plugged off and a 5/8" restricter ( no T-stat) and no water pressure problems, but no temp( maybe 130 degrees).
Looking for suggestions and what you guys are running.
Thanks for any replies, Russ Withiam
08-25-2002, 09:30 PM
#14
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Charter Member
To avoid confusion,
"The bypass orifice is a 1/2" pipe plug with a hole drilled thru it (1/8"- 3/8" diameter), shoved up inside the 3/4" rubber hose of the bypass".
"The bypass orifice is a 1/2" pipe plug with a hole drilled thru it (1/8"- 3/8" diameter), shoved up inside the 3/4" rubber hose of the bypass".
08-25-2002, 11:54 PM
#15
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Merlin540,
BW and I run relief valves on our Daytonas. He put his tee between the strainer and oil cooler and dumps out the back. I have seen him run 30 - 35 PSI. I have my tee inserted right after the sea pump and I run ~ 20 PSI and dump out the side. Both of us run oil thermostats and the relief valves are adjustable by turning a screw. We got the valves from Grainger.
BW and I run relief valves on our Daytonas. He put his tee between the strainer and oil cooler and dumps out the back. I have seen him run 30 - 35 PSI. I have my tee inserted right after the sea pump and I run ~ 20 PSI and dump out the side. Both of us run oil thermostats and the relief valves are adjustable by turning a screw. We got the valves from Grainger.
08-26-2002, 02:01 AM
#16
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One of the problems I noticed is the sea strainers are leaking after a complete cleaning and new gaskets. The sea strainer is the first thing to get the water. How does the spike eliminator work?
08-26-2002, 07:41 AM
#17
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RLW, we are running stock 142 degree thermostats with crossovers that have a bypass. I would run the stock thermostat and get rid of the bypass restriction to keep your exhaust cool. If pressure is an issue you may need a 3/4" flow control. I made 50 of the custom tees you speak of out of stainless steel to go into the 11/4" hose and they have a 1/2" NPT outlet port that is plumbed to the flow control, if anyone is interested. You would only want to restrict your bypass if your pressure is to low.
08-28-2002, 02:52 PM
#20
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stainless marine also offers a strainer with a pressure releif valve in it......use them all the time....a strainer is also a very good thing to run at these speeds,they give you a reserve water supply when your airborne......theyll keep a constant 20 psi on the top and keep you from smokin impellers......20 psi is all you really want to run after that itll blow through headgaskets.....i can also have them custom built .....
