OT: Anybody replace their rotors on a 97 to 2002 F-150 4X4?
#11
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
You have to completely disassemble and remove the innards of the locking hub mechanism. There's a series of clips holding the pieces in place. Then once inside the hub, there are two special nuts on the spindle clamping the bearings together, for which you need to buy a special spanner socket. The only place I found this was through snap-on. When the nuts come off, the hub and rotor should simply slide off. When you get them off, hammer the studs through(carefully, using a wood block so the threads aren't ruined) and the rotor should easily seperate from the hub.
#12
Charter Member#93
Charter Member
Nick they are hubless rotors, there not held on by the studs. They just rust up real bad behind the rotors on the 97 and newer 150's. The one i did last week was an 01 and was already really rusted.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ike is right. The rotor just slips, I say just... hah, over a shoulder on the hub. I knocked out the studs, and just soaked it to death with good old PB Blaster, nothing. I was afraid I would screw up the steering gear by beating on it so I quit. I thing the neighborhood was glad too.
I tried pulling the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle in hopes of being able to drive the hub out for the rotor, but I couldn't get the freaking hub out either.
I need to invest in a hydraulic puller.
Thanks guys, Jeff
I tried pulling the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle in hopes of being able to drive the hub out for the rotor, but I couldn't get the freaking hub out either.
I need to invest in a hydraulic puller.
Thanks guys, Jeff
#14
Registered
just had rotors replaced on my 01 super crew. 28000 miles. brought to tire place to rotate tires (free lifetime rotation on 33" BFG's), they said pads were gone, asked them the cost of pads, they told me rotors were too pitted to turn, need new ones and should be under warranty, I said rotors are wear out right, they said no, if you didn't score them with calipers, they should still be under warranty, and also said that the rotors are a "bugger" to get off because of thier cheap material (ie your corrosions problems). thanked them for the honest suggestion and had the dealer put on new pads that I brought to them when they replaced my rotors. $0.00 to dealer. So are you lucky enough to be under warranty yet? good luck either way
#17
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It went in today. I took it to Goodyear. They were the only ones in my area that would do it with my parts. All the others wanted to over charge me for their crappy parts and 75 bucks an hour labor.
I talked to the mechanic after and the words, son-of-a-*****in-thing, were used alot. Nice guy. The gal behind the counter was glad to see the truck go because of all the noise coming from the shop. He put the new ones on right. I took it apart when I got it home so I could put grease on the hub so this wouldn't happen again but he beat me to it. I put anti-seize and shined up the hub. Nice people. I cost me 175.00 for the labor but from the sounds and looks of the old rotors it was worth it.
So a good word for the Goodyear Tire place on 13 Mile and Harper in St. Clair Shores.
Jeff
I talked to the mechanic after and the words, son-of-a-*****in-thing, were used alot. Nice guy. The gal behind the counter was glad to see the truck go because of all the noise coming from the shop. He put the new ones on right. I took it apart when I got it home so I could put grease on the hub so this wouldn't happen again but he beat me to it. I put anti-seize and shined up the hub. Nice people. I cost me 175.00 for the labor but from the sounds and looks of the old rotors it was worth it.
So a good word for the Goodyear Tire place on 13 Mile and Harper in St. Clair Shores.
Jeff
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