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OT: Anybody replace their rotors on a 97 to 2002 F-150 4X4?

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Old 08-31-2002, 08:44 PM
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jr
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Default OT: Anybody replace their rotors on a 97 to 2002 F-150 4X4?

I was going to put new rotors on my F-150 4x4. I'll be damned if I can get them off. I've tried PB Blaster, heat, beating the crap out of them, and I bent my 8" gear puller. I also tried pulling the hub off the spindle but I couldn't get it to budge off the spline. Can you use heat on the hub and not cook the bearings seals or CV joints?

Does anyone have any suggestions? Other than having a pro do it. Last time I had front end work by a pro done they almost killed me and my family when the lower control arm fell off.

Thanks guys, Jeff
 
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Old 08-31-2002, 09:28 PM
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I don't think they come off the hubs on the 150's. Check with the parts dept. at a Ford dealership to see if they are offered seperately. My shop works on them all the time, and I just can't remember right now.

I know the 250 does come off. If you heat it you will heat everything and have to repack and replace seals.

Have you pulled the hub and rotor assy?? If you take it off you can press them off

Last edited by Gearhead99; 08-31-2002 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 08-31-2002, 10:47 PM
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jr
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I have tried the rotor. It "Supposedly" just slips over the hub. But I think what happened is that the hub corroded to the back of the rotor. So I tried pulling the hub assembly, and rotor off to press them out but didn't have any luck. Right now its in pieces in the driveway. I resoak the splines every hour or so and try again.

The 150 is different than the 250. The bearings are lubed for life and aren't service able. The driveshaft from the tranfercase looks alot like a front wheel drive car instead of a solid axle like the HD's and my Excursion.

I had a similar problem on an Intrepid I used to have. I couldn't get it apart to replace a bearing. I took it to the dealer to see if they could get it apart. It ended up costing me 800 bucks, for a new knuckle, CV joint, driveshaft, bearing and rotor. Then they for got to put the lower ball joint back in properly and the lower contol arm dropped out and we almost hit a telephone pole. Nice.

Thanks Gearhead99 for the info.
 
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Old 08-31-2002, 10:59 PM
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not positive, but i believe you have to knock the wheel studs out before the rotor will slide off.
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Old 09-01-2002, 12:38 AM
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Don't heat it, you'll ruin the bearings. Keep hitting it on both sides with a good size hammer and eventually the rotors will crack & come off.

Bo knows
 
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Old 09-01-2002, 07:19 AM
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Must be the salt on the roads up there.

Use PB Blaster. It is the BEST penatrating oil out there. WD-40 is a waste of time next to PB Blaster.
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Old 09-01-2002, 07:31 AM
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I just did a set of rotors on a 01 f150 4x4 last thrusday and i had to soak the hub and hit it with a big brass hammer for a awhile to get them off. There was a lot a rust built up on the inside or the rotor for a 01 with 30,000 miles. Good luck and use a big hammer.
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Old 09-01-2002, 10:50 AM
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I know on the older series you have to remove the locking hub, and remove the spanner nut inside the hub, hope you are right about the slip on rotor on your model!
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Old 09-01-2002, 11:17 AM
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Angry basterd rotors

we use an air hammer with a flat hammer bit and just let her have it between all the studs right on the flat surface more closer to the edge , they rust real bad on the inside between the edge of hub and the rotor. I put anti seiz on the very edge of the hub when it comes off.
 
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Old 09-01-2002, 11:38 AM
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Well I surrender. I give it the old college try and it beat me. I used all the suggestions except the air hammer. I beat on it with a 16 lb maul and still couldnt get it loose. I tried it all. So now off to midas and see if they kill me.

Thanks for all the suggestions but I was afraid I'd break something other than the damn rotor. Thanks again.
 
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