What is the ceramic coating Wilson Custom Marine uses??
12-25-2014 | 03:56 PM
#33
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From: LI, New York
Nano technolgy is the new catch word over tge past few years, even in the coatings industry for ppf gilms and protectants that i use. Avery denidon has nano fusion films as well as Gtechniq ExoV2 nano hydrophobic coatings for paint, the molecular bonding and ceramic properties are widely used but still trade secrets. Even more so the coating just cant be applied without proper prep work. Whatever they use they developed it, let them do it and recoup the research and development money.
12-25-2014 | 06:03 PM
#34
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From: New York
12-25-2014 | 10:23 PM
#35
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From: Rockford, IL
This is not a ceramic coating, but what I have been using on my lower is a product called Sharkhide. You can get it from Eastwood.
It works fairly well. It does tend to wear off the skeg and front of the bullet if you park on any sand bars. If you run in deeper water it shouldn't wear off. I usually polish and re-seal mine once a year.
It works fairly well. It does tend to wear off the skeg and front of the bullet if you park on any sand bars. If you run in deeper water it shouldn't wear off. I usually polish and re-seal mine once a year.
12-25-2014 | 11:46 PM
#36
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I'm looking to do lower units, and the problem with them isn't the heat, it is getting something to stay on and not peel off at high speeds. Also, what I'm looking for has a slick feel to the touch, almost like a graphite or Teflon coating. I would also like to stay away from powders, and stay with a sprayable product that can be put on with a standard paint gun. What do you recommend?
Both the Ceramic and Powder are permanent solutions. Unfortunately neither of which is meant as a DIY project. Obviously, to powder coat the drive it has be completely disassembled. To do Ceramic it has to be very close to that.
I haven't seen any testing data on drives in a while but there may be some advantages to using either a satin ceramic or powder in these applications to create a bit of a pebbled surface. Much like they've found speed in creating little air pockets in hull finishes, I think the same applies for pretty much any wet surface. In many cases smooth and shiny can actually create more surface friction than a slightly irregular surface.
Last edited by CCPcoatings; 12-25-2014 at 11:54 PM.
12-26-2014 | 08:08 AM
#37
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From: New York
This is not a ceramic coating, but what I have been using on my lower is a product called Sharkhide. You can get it from Eastwood.
It works fairly well. It does tend to wear off the skeg and front of the bullet if you park on any sand bars. If you run in deeper water it shouldn't wear off. I usually polish and re-seal mine once a year.
It works fairly well. It does tend to wear off the skeg and front of the bullet if you park on any sand bars. If you run in deeper water it shouldn't wear off. I usually polish and re-seal mine once a year.
12-26-2014 | 09:21 AM
#39
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From: Chicago
The Durafortress was permanent, you can`t get that stuff off with anything, I wish it was still available.
Durafortress coated tab after an entire SEASON: (coated the tab after I had it polished)
Raw polished aluminum tab after ONE DAY in the water:
I`m looking for something similiar now
Durafortress coated tab after an entire SEASON: (coated the tab after I had it polished)
Raw polished aluminum tab after ONE DAY in the water:
I`m looking for something similiar now
12-26-2014 | 10:04 AM
#40
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From: taxachusetts
http://www.kisspolymers.com/
