Madcow-you're correct in that it doesn't need to be very strong. The entire hull above the rub rail is only 1/8" thick so it's already minimal. If you lean on the rear deck you can get a good 1/2" of flex out of it. My fear is that it'll become really flimsy after I cut a big notch out of it.

Cobra-Your suggestion is the correct fix and from the outside that would appear to be the easy solution. The problem is that there is a deflector inside that the water hits. If we move the fitting back, the deflector needs to be moved back. To do this the collector needs to be cut off. Lightning isn't willing to cut the collector off to do this.

You guys are right, Lightning should be fixing the error. And it's not that they havn't offered to improve things. Their offer is to cut the existing fitting off and mount it horizontally. That actually would work OK. Not my first choice, but it would work. The problem is that we have maybe 2 months of boating season left. Actually, that's proably a tad optimistic. To send the one header back for rework would take about a month. 1 week to ship to California, 2 weeks to rework, receramic coat, repowder coat, and then another week to ship back to me. I don't want to wait that long! (whine) I really wish I could jury rig it and then have the header modified over winter. That would be the perfect solution! But I can't see a way to make it work. :(

Currently, I'm figuring that I'm going to just cut the lip and reinforce it as you guys have suggested. I e-mailed Lighting with a offer to drop the issue if they would reduce their price by $300. I figured that if I had misplaced the fitting that they would proably charge me at least that much to fix it. Honestly though, I don't think they are going to reply to my offer. This really sucks.

If you do decide to cut the lip, here's a trim suggestion for the edges:

http://www93.thomasregister.com/olc/trimlok/tr17.htm

cord,

if your just cutting the egdge and not the transom itself there is no structural problems there. it will not weaken the boat. that edge running aroung the engine comparment is there for your engine hatch only. cut away dude.

Treadwell

Cord. Can you get me a picture with the hatch in place? I have another thought but need to see how the hatch sits on there to know if it will work.

Jon

It looks like you could cut the fitting off and angle it down and re weld it in place. Run it for a couple of months then have it re coated moving the fitting a little and then putting it on a angle to tip it down instead of straight with the collector. I made my tstat housings to fit under my blowers because no one made a set that looked good.:cool:

Cord,

i feel your pain. I had a problem with a closed cooling system that did not fit. The heat exchanger would not clear my stock power steering pump, my stock temp sending units would not fit into the holes they had designed for them and the hoses to my stock risers were too small to attach to my risers.

I have learned to pay for these things with a credit card. If it does not fit notify the credit card company and you will be suprised how fast parts will come your way.

You always waste alot of your time and some of your money but you end with a system that works. Sometimes the shortcuts just create a new set of problems.

I have cut my hull three times. One time to install a thru fitting. I would consider cutting your boat as the last option.

Asking for 300.00 is being too nice. I would push for a new header asap. Custom work should fit.

Just my 2 cents.

BK-thanks for the link. I've been meaning to put a piece of trim on that lip, but just havn't gotten to it. I was going to use the stuff from Boat US, but these guys look alot nicer.

Jon-The hatch will not close. There is dump fitting out of the top of the header and the carb/air cleaner are sticking above the deck. I can mount it and the the deck partially. I'm wondering what you are thinking about. Frankly, the hatch isn't a major concern of mine as it's a flimsy POS that I'm willing to remake.

Cord no need to bolt it all on there if you do not have to. I just want to see how the cover fits in. Is it flush with the top edge of that lip or is it lower so that Cusions will go on top?

Jon

The hatch sits on top of the fiberglass. It's a simple piece of plywood with no reinforcement. :rolleyes:

Ok, here's a better pic of what I was facing. I'm saying "was" because I actually got it to work. I used a 45* forged adapter to point horizontall and then a 90* hose end to point the hose back down. Turned out pretty good. It's not the result that I had wanted but it will work.


I e-mailed Lightning with my offer to reduce the price and got no return reply. Because I got it to work, I'm willing to significantly reduce the number, but we need a open dialog here! :rolleyes: