Drive plate adapter:
pic 1- I had the guys at my shop measure the Teague drive plate and get dimensions of the cummins flywheel and make an adapter to go between them that would place the splines at the correct spacing for my transmission. It was heavy and ugly.
pic 2,3- We lightened the adapter by adding recesses and holes
pic 4- painted the adapter to match the cummins parts and to keep from rusting
pic 5- installed on engine

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Nice job are you still using the two speed boxes you were working on?
These diesel builds are certainly challenging to get everything to come together.

Any reason you chose Floscan sensors over the Maretron system? The Maretron is more accurate and a lot less bulky.

That is one clean fuel setup, very nice work!

Thanks, I tried to get a lot of stuff in as small of footprint as I could, and I tried using fittings that we had in-stock. It could have been a little better with different angled fittings but it was late at night and I just wanted to be done.

Bell housing adapter: The new lightened bell housing adapter. We were going to lean the transmission towards the center but the drive line ended up being straight with the engine so we took it out and drilled it again to put the transmission straight down.

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Cool idea.:cool:

Transmission dry sump drive:
I debated back and forth about using an internal transmission oil pump that is part of the input shaft like I have on the two speed transmissions that we already make or use an external pump. There is good and bad about each but in the end I would rather be able to change the external one a lot faster then chance the better reliability of the internal one. I went with a two stage Peterson dry sump pump. We had to make a custom oil pump mount and drive for it. I made the drive out of stainless so I would not have to worry about it breaking if it was aluminum.

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Exhaust trim ring:
We made the exhaust tip a separate piece that is around a foot long with 4-5" sticking out the back and the inside, and bolts through transom instead of just having a trim ring with a silicone gasket that could tear or leak. I will end up putting a rubber flapper on it to help keep water out when its sitting in the water not running or backing down a steep ramp.

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Exhaust:
for the exhaust I used some pieces of 4" and 5" straight and bends that Walt (If you have been to lunch with Pete you know him) gave me that he was making exhaust with. the exhaust comes out of the turbo at 3.5" so we made a 3/8" thick flange that bolts to the turbo and has a 4" hole in it with an arm that sticks out towards the back to brace the weight of the tail pipe.
I took a piece of the 4" tube and used one of the hose swedge dies to form the 4" out to 5" with a taper. I just put it in the press and pressed it alittle bit and would turn the die and do it again farther until it was 5" dia. was not the smoothest because if gaps in the die but its getting a heat shield coating and you will not see it. Then we welded it all together with some bends to get as much height as we could to keep water out of the turbo and where we had butt joints in the welds we welded a sleeve for more strength. The water goes out the end through a ring with a series of holes in it into the air.

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